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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone. I just joined the site a couple days ago. I’ve snooped around on here a bit and found some really helpful info. Thank you all for that. I would like to have joined under better circumstances. However, at the moment I’m kind of stumped. I am looking for some advice on what direction to head next to solve my problem.

I have a 1999, F250, 4x4, 7.3, auto, Crew Cab, Long Bed. I went to the store and the truck ran great. Shut it off and 5 minutes later when I came out it sounded like it was running on 4 cylinders and it would barely idle. I limped it home 3 miles away and scanned it. At that time I was showing a P1316 Injector Module code and a low boost code. I started it again to pull it in my garage and it was worse and wouldn’t pull itself into the garage. I pushed it in with the tractor and scanned it again It showed the same two codes as before but also showed the code for Cam Position Sensor.

After reading others opinions and experiences on this forum I changed the Cam Position Sensor and did the 50 cent mod that many of you are doing to keep the harnesses securely plugged in. The plug was loose under the passenger side valve cover so I assumed that was the problem. (yeah I know all about the word assume) I was in a hurry and did a very uncharacteristic thing and did NOT do a continuity test on the UVC harnesses. (probably a very dumb move) I tried to start it and it wouldn’t turn over. I charged both batteries and did a load test finding that they were BOTH shot. Thanks! So I went to Wallyworld and bought two new batteries. Started it and it still ran like crap. And at this point in time my transmission vent tube decided it would be a great time to become plugged and I had transmission fluid puking out my fill tube. YAY! So, I swapped out the vent tube on the transmission, cleared the codes and started it again and let it run for a few minutes.

Here is where I am at now: Low boost code is gone because I found a loose intake hose. Cam Positions Sensor code is gone with the new sensor installed. Transmission is no longer spitting fluid at me. But the truck is still running like crap. I am getting two codes now. Still getting the P1316 Injector Module code and also getting a P0603 code – Keep Alive Memory code. (what ever that means…)

So what should I do now? Should I pull the valve covers again and check the UVC harnesses? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
My scanner won't read IDM codes. I'm trying to borrow one that will. Mine will do a cylinder balance test. I may try that and see what it says.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok. New twist. After spending several days trying to track down a scanner to do a buzz test, etc. I gave up. My fuel pump has been sounding like a ticking time bomb lately, so I changed it and the filter. Still runs like crap. So I let it run for a minute: rough idle would barely run, engine surges up and down. Seems like a classic UVC harness issue. So I shut it off and checked the temperature of both exhaust manifolds with a temperature gun. The driver side was just under 200* and the passenger side manifold was 80* all along the manifold.
So I took the passenger side valve cover off and pulled the UVC harness. The plug did not look burnt. I did a continuity test on the harness and it checked out fine. I also did a continuity test on the plugs on the valve cover gasket - also fine. I also checked continuity across all other pins an plugs to make shore it wasn't shorting out across the plug or harness - also fine.
So now what? I have the passenger side bank that appears to be dead and my wires and plugs test good... Any help? Suggestions on what to do next?
 

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Probably stupid suggestion but you could try searching the codes individually in google and see what other people have come up with. I usually find my answer when I do this Sorry I can't help more.

Sent from my DROIDX using AutoGuide App
 

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Discussion Starter #8
All wires are good from main harness connection on drivers side to all passenger side injector wires. Should I be looking at the injector module now? Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated...

I kind of figured with all the details above I might get an idea from someone... Guess its just a boring thread or something...
 

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p1316 is an idm faulty code
the 0603 is kam, dont worry about it. You may have a bad idm.
can you run the buzz test? are 4 cylinders failing?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
No I don't have the capability to run a buzz test. However after the truck is running for a minute (which is hard to do) the driver's side bank is 200* and the passenger side bank is 80* so the passenger side 4 cylinders are dead. I've already done the new harness and clip and all that and I know the wiring is good to all 4 passenger side injectors.

Will a bad IDM cause one bank to not get power?
 

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Another option to try...

I too have been having a difficult time getting the pulling power I need from my 03, 7.3L,....I have found a site that has specific instructions to perform the "buzz test" and also talks about the UVC harnesses. Go to DTS Articles - 7.3L UVC Harness Retainer Clips...when I get the time I will be trying this buzz test....also a reminder that the UVC harnesses are much cheaper if you use the International part number vs. the Ford part number ($25 each vs. $70-80 each)...my truck runs fine but just doesn't have the power to pull a wet stick out of a dog's a** when i'm pulling the 14K pound RV. I have around 155K miles on it so there is a good chance that the UVC harness may be a fix for me as the heat build up under the valve covers can affect the harness and connections over time. Let me know how you make out.....
 

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Sounds like the passenger side UVCH has came unplugged from the valve cover gasket. Happens all the time. Replace harness or plug back in and install wedges from Ford to keep harness from backing out.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I've already fixed the UVC harness and fixed the clips etc and did a continuity test. It's all good. I outlined that on page 1.

A friend of mine had 2 IDM's both off of 2002 E350's. These will work just fine on my 99 F250, right? I just wanna try them and if they fix the problem I'm gonna buy one.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
IT WORKED!!! Finally. After running down and fixing multiple problems... So, what happened was I had a short in my main harness. The short fried the IDM. So, I tore the harness apart wire by wire, repaired two chewed wires (thanks Mr. Mouse!) removed a massive mouse nest under the turbo... (the truck had been sitting for a while before I bought it) re-taped and wire-loomed it and then did a continuity test on the whole harness. Put a loaner IDM from an 02 E350 and presto!

So here's my next question: Since the IDM in it now came from a van with 230k miles, I am going to buy a remanufactured IDM with a lifetime warranty. Should I buy a 110 like what was originally in it? Or should I buy a 120? I hear the 120's are better? Or does it make a difference? Give me some opinions.
 

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Are the 120 IDM's any better guys?
 
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