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What are some maintenance routines/ideas or “add ons” to make the 7.3 superduty more reliable?
Just looking for thoughtful conversation on the “must haves” and the “must do” items.
 

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1.Routine fluid/filter changes
2.spare CPS with a 10m socket and ratchet in the glove box.

One you get up in the miles fuel bowl reseal, hpop lines, coolant hoses, maybe some vacuum lines to keep the hvac from defaulting to defrost position. Keeping an eye on the idm to prevent the common water damage issues.


these Guys did a fairly well job for probably 99% of 7.3l owners. There are always less common problems like
A couple of harness rub spots, sticky accumulator springs in the valvebody, things that just arnt super common but not really any way to practically check during routine
 

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Boost, and egt gauges, 6637 intake, 4" exhaust, billet compressor wheel, bellowed up pipes, EBPV delete with a Garret blank pedestal, Riff Raff fuel rail crossover, fuel tank hutch mod, crank case vent mod, and a PHP Hydra chip will make a good running reliable truck. Change the oil every 5K, fuel filter every 10K with Motorcaft filters, if your using the green coolant change it every 3-4 years and use the Ford coolant additive, transmission, transfer case and rear axle fluid every 30-40K front axle fluid can go a little longer since it isn't used as much.
 

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What are some maintenance routines/ideas or “add ons” to make the 7.3 superduty more reliable?
Just looking for thoughtful conversation on the “must haves” and the “must do” items.
keep it stock and stick to the service intervals...you'll probably get bored of the truck before the engine blows
 

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keep it stock and stick to the service intervals...you'll probably get bored of the truck before the engine blows
If you keep it stock that is true. I know i wouldn't want to drive a stock 7.3 for very long, they are painfully slow.
 

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If you keep it stock that is true. I know i wouldn't want to drive a stock 7.3 for very long, they are painfully slow.
The OP asked how to make it "more reliable" and keeping it stock is the key.

I get it that some guys want "more performance" but I'm fine with the stock power if I can get hundreds of thousands of miles out of my trucks.
 

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The OP asked how to make it "more reliable" and keeping it stock is the key.

I get it that some guys want "more performance" but I'm fine with the stock power if I can get hundreds of thousands of miles out of my trucks.
You can get hundres of thousands of miles out of it when modified if done correctly.
 

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The OP asked how to make it "more reliable" and keeping it stock is the key.

I get it that some guys want "more performance" but I'm fine with the stock power if I can get hundreds of thousands of miles out of my trucks.
Yup. Good call. Wish I had one.
Almost bought one a few weeks ago when all this crazy started, I found a beautiful one out west, never seen salty winters, exactly what I wanted, but wife didn’t want me to travel. Flight there, 5 day drive home, hotels... Glad I listened to her this time.

Funny short story.
A few months back I was talking with an old friend of mine who has been running 7.3’s since they started building them. He has two of them.
I asked him the same thing.
Coming from the 6.0 world, I asked ‘what do I need to do to bullet proof it?’
He replied
‘Nothing, they come bullet proof from the factory.’
 

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I have to agree with all these statements. Leaving the 7.3 stock is probably the best thing. I have a 1996 and a 2002 the 96 has 335k and the 2002 I bought to rebuild. Just as a matter of proof how tough these engines can be, I drove the 02 about 350 miles home after purchase to find two dead cylinders. It still got 16 MPG. I'm building this one for some heavy duty towing but its from the ground up. The idea is to prove the 7.3 as a Hot Shot platform. I have been following several Hot shot drivers that I know and they have had many disappointments with the newer power teams. They meticulously maintained their vehicles and the platforms still let them down. One has gone back to his old 99 5.9 it got so bad. They have spent thousands of dollars or months at a time under warranty trying to get their $80k rigs back in service. It seems 90% of their problems were and continue to be the DEF systems which are around $10k-13k to replace. The other 10% are and were transmission failures.

So the 7.3 with its traditional diesel buildout might be an answer. I am building an engine in the 450-480hp range with the torque being the main goal of around 800-900ft/lbs being the goal. It should pull their loads without too many problems and the absence of pollution controls and use of standard transmissions should provide a viable platform that can pull like modern engines without all the inherent problems of the newer models.

The caveat being, its a ground up build. Forged rods are a must, full balance is done, heavy duty valve train, completely redesigned fuel delivery to proper turbo and injection selection with proper tuning, heavy duty clutch and transmission refresh, rear end refresh, all new brakes and steering, and the list goes on but its a systematic build that will yield a truck that can compete and out last a modern vehicle. It all comes in at about $25k in parts but that's a fraction of the cost of these new vehicles and it should outlast them.
 

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Not sure where you’re located but I switched to rotella t6 synthetic. Not trying to start an oil debate but I smoke less and get better starting and mpgs.


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keep it stock and stick to the service intervals...you'll probably get bored of the truck before the engine blows
After rebuilding my motor to stock with 240k you are correct sir. At least my turbo sounds cool straight piped but off the line. I may beat her on foot



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You can get hundres of thousands of miles out of it when modified if done correctly.
Eh...every powerstroke failure short of 500k miles that I've heard of was pretty much due to modding the engine beyond stock.
 

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Eh...every powerstroke failure short of 500k miles that I've heard of was pretty much due to modding the engine beyond stock.
That's where the done correctly part comes in.
 

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That's where the done correctly part comes in.
That's correct. Most modded trucks are abused beyond their intended purpose. If you want to race, build a car. You could build 2 pretty nice cars for the price of one of these trucks. And it will perform and last much longer. The engine I'm building will never see any rpms past 2500 to 2800.
 

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If you want to race, build a car. You could build 2 pretty nice cars for the price of one of these trucks. And it will perform and last much longer.
LOL you have never built a racecar have you? A 7.3 is a fraction of what just a semi competitive drag car can cost. Most are well over 50K.
 

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LOL you have never built a racecar have you? A 7.3 is a fraction of what just a semi competitive drag car can cost. Most are well over 50K.
Nope never built a real racer. Just always stuck to street strip action. You're right, a real racer is way out of my league. At least my available cash league anyway. The main point I was getting at was a lot of diesel owners throw a new turbo, injectors, and tunes at an engine and think they have a super truck. Truth is they've only created a ticking time bomb. When the clock runs out the engine self destructs. It's just a matter of how bad then.
 
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