7.3 Powerstroke Maintenance Checklist
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oil change 15w/40 motorcraft and motorcraft filter every 5000 miles. (lots of people run rotella 15w/40 or T6.)
clean air filter every oil change.
rotate tires every oil change.
replace fuel filter every 10,000 miles. wix filter.
wash her once a week.
everything else on an as needed basis.
clean air filter every oil change.
rotate tires every oil change.
replace fuel filter every 10,000 miles. wix filter.
wash her once a week.
everything else on an as needed basis.
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3,553 Posts
You're doing more harm than good by cleaning your air filter.
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3,553 Posts
1) An air filter removes more dirt from the air the more clogged it gets. The cleaner the filter, the more dirt that can get through.
2)You will introduce more dirt in the intake system by removing and reinstalling the air filter than you will during the entire life of the air filter if you never touch it.
3) Blowing compressed air (even if you are only blowing the air backwards) puts the dirt in the air and on the wrong side of the filter
4) Blowing air through a filter will degrade the filter and cause it to pass more dirt through it and still look clean.
The only filters that should be blown out are the outer filters on a dual air filter system, commonly found on larger/commercial/industrial/agricultural equipment, and only the outer one. That's what the inner filter is for. When you see dirt in the inner filter, the outer one is compromised and they both should be replaced in a set.
2)You will introduce more dirt in the intake system by removing and reinstalling the air filter than you will during the entire life of the air filter if you never touch it.
3) Blowing compressed air (even if you are only blowing the air backwards) puts the dirt in the air and on the wrong side of the filter
4) Blowing air through a filter will degrade the filter and cause it to pass more dirt through it and still look clean.
The only filters that should be blown out are the outer filters on a dual air filter system, commonly found on larger/commercial/industrial/agricultural equipment, and only the outer one. That's what the inner filter is for. When you see dirt in the inner filter, the outer one is compromised and they both should be replaced in a set.
Bro, with all due respect, this is the biggest pile of hogwash I've ever read. At least the first 2 are.
1. Absolutely incorrect. If the air filter traps dirt, it blocks more air. A clean air filter allows more AIR through, not more dirt. To say that a dirty air filter traps more dirt is like saying that a dirty oil filter traps more contaminants. I dare you to find ONE credible source backing this ridiculous claim up. A dirty air filter lets more dirt through, not less. Once it becomes so clogged up it can't trap any more dirt, the dirt has nowhere to go but through the filter into the engine.
2. Absolutely incorrect-IF you take reasonable care. The way the air duct is on my truck, the clean air goes up, so when you change the filter, the dirt falls down. That's fine. I wouldn't blow it out with compressed air, but wiping it with a wet rag would suffice quite nicely.
3. Now this can be true. I've done it when I was poor, not because it's a good idea.
4. This is true or could be true. I wouldn't blow air through it at all, just change it.
I'm a federally licensed mechanic. With all due respect, I wouldn't take much advice from someone who recommends you use a dirty air filter. In fact, changing your air filter regularly can increase fuel mileage and power as the engine isn't starving for air.
As far as cleaning the outer filter, some can be cleaned, some can't. Foam filters are great as they can be cleaned many different ways. The "inner filter" as you call it is sometimes referred to as a "last chance filter" for obvious reasons. Depending on type, it can be cleaned as well. Many motorcycles come with foam filters that are designed to be cleaned and reused. Typically these filters are oiled with a very sticky oil to really make them super effective air filters, yet have a high air throughput. Auto filters, maybe not so much so. Just depends.
But absolutely, under no circumstances, is a dirty air filter better than a clean one.
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889 Posts
oil - 15w40 summer 5w40 winter
air filter when i think its time
tires
wash
basically generic stuff that you do with any car
depending on what intake you have, its cheap enough to buy a brand new filter instead of cleaning it, i run a 6637 so a new one is only 30 something dollars.
air filter when i think its time
tires
wash
basically generic stuff that you do with any car
depending on what intake you have, its cheap enough to buy a brand new filter instead of cleaning it, i run a 6637 so a new one is only 30 something dollars.
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583 Posts
I attended a training class sponsored by Weber State here in Utah. They told us the same thing about dirty K&N filters filter better the dirtier they are. They said the only way they filter and good as a quality paper filter is they have to be absolutely filthy. You did not mention if you were using a K&N. Im just tossing that out.
What exactly is a "federally licensed mechanic"?
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889 Posts
FWIW dont use K&N on a diesel.
Some rarely mentioned things that I've read before:
Injector tuneup every 3,500 miles
Differential fluid change every 21,000 miles
Transfer case fluid change every 21,000 miles
Fuel Tanks cleaning every 30,000 miles
Any thoughts on this?
What about packing of hubs?
I'm particularly concerned about fuel tanks cleaning, as I recently clogged an inline pre-screen filter when I ran my tank close to E. Consequently, I no longer run it below a quarter... that is until I get it cleaned I suppose.
Injector tuneup every 3,500 miles
Differential fluid change every 21,000 miles
Transfer case fluid change every 21,000 miles
Fuel Tanks cleaning every 30,000 miles
Any thoughts on this?
What about packing of hubs?
I'm particularly concerned about fuel tanks cleaning, as I recently clogged an inline pre-screen filter when I ran my tank close to E. Consequently, I no longer run it below a quarter... that is until I get it cleaned I suppose.
I'm a mechanic licensed with the federal government, the FAA. If I say I'm an A&P people have no idea what that means. I'm a jet mechanic.
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1,605 Posts
I change oil around 10,000 miles
Clean my air filter as needed, it's washable and reusable
Greasing u-joints and ball joints (if they have been replaced with grease-able units) is a good idea, no grease ever, they'll fail way faster than the non serviceable types, do this at least at oil change intervals
Greasing front wheel bearings and checking for play once a year
Change my fuel filter (e-fuel) about once a year (I don't drive my OBS much)
Check coolant once a year if it's green and add any VC8 if needed
WASH the truck as soon as it gets dirty, anything treated like this will last much longer, spray up into places you can see easily, get underneath, simple green and normal hose pressure when the motor gets dirty
Fluid film anything that can rust once a year
Clean my air filter as needed, it's washable and reusable
Greasing u-joints and ball joints (if they have been replaced with grease-able units) is a good idea, no grease ever, they'll fail way faster than the non serviceable types, do this at least at oil change intervals
Greasing front wheel bearings and checking for play once a year
Change my fuel filter (e-fuel) about once a year (I don't drive my OBS much)
Check coolant once a year if it's green and add any VC8 if needed
WASH the truck as soon as it gets dirty, anything treated like this will last much longer, spray up into places you can see easily, get underneath, simple green and normal hose pressure when the motor gets dirty
Fluid film anything that can rust once a year
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12,048 Posts
Every @5k
Delo 15w-40
Motorcraft oil filter
Grease all zeros
Rotate tires
Inspect front/rear brakes
Fuel [email protected]
Motorcraft
Every @15k
Air filter motorcraft (I'll inspect during oil change)
Front/rear [email protected]
I think it's like 90w-140 for rear
75w-99 front (I'll look)
[email protected]
Drain, drop pan replace fluid n filter with Mercon/dextron III
[email protected]
I think Mercon/dextronIII
Power steering and brake fluid at @50k
Brake fluid-brakes
Dexmerc-pwr steering
Check/change engine [email protected]
Rotella or zerex ELC (I may go to 100k before changing)
Weekly:
Check all fluids
Monthly:
Check tire pressures
Crawl under with flash light
Quarterly:
Two stroke oil in fuel
I may be forgetting some stuff but I'm pretty OCD with my maintence and its served me well on all my vehicles and saved me money over the long run by only spending few bucks extra for maintenance.
Delo 15w-40
Motorcraft oil filter
Grease all zeros
Rotate tires
Inspect front/rear brakes
Fuel [email protected]
Motorcraft
Every @15k
Air filter motorcraft (I'll inspect during oil change)
Front/rear [email protected]
I think it's like 90w-140 for rear
75w-99 front (I'll look)
[email protected]
Drain, drop pan replace fluid n filter with Mercon/dextron III
[email protected]
I think Mercon/dextronIII
Power steering and brake fluid at @50k
Brake fluid-brakes
Dexmerc-pwr steering
Check/change engine [email protected]
Rotella or zerex ELC (I may go to 100k before changing)
Weekly:
Check all fluids
Monthly:
Check tire pressures
Crawl under with flash light
Quarterly:
Two stroke oil in fuel
I may be forgetting some stuff but I'm pretty OCD with my maintence and its served me well on all my vehicles and saved me money over the long run by only spending few bucks extra for maintenance.
Ok I actually don't agree with using simple green. That stuff is so corrosive I'd only use it on crap that you DON'T care about. Just like purple power, anything aluminum it will corrode and anything metal it will rust. You can use something that isn't corrosive that works almost as well like aviation simple green. You will never rinse it good enough to get all of it out.
The one time I know that simple green actually caused an accident was when it got on some wiring in an aircraft and it caused a short to the steering system and caused the aircraft to swerve off the runway and hit not one but TWO runway lights. Tore up both props and necessitated two engine overhauls.....to two turboprop engines.
I would avoid it like the plague. Look here instead:
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=non+corrosive+degreasers
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12,048 Posts
So back on the subject of people's maintenance schedules for their trucks.....
I forgot to mention I now know your supposed to inspect and re grease needle bearings inside the front hub assemblies. I had to replace my drivers side thankfully no wear on the axel stub.
So very 30k inspect needle bearing and 4x4 hubs.
You guys may think I'm crazy but I inspect the house with a somewhat similar schedule too lol. Keeps me busy
I forgot to mention I now know your supposed to inspect and re grease needle bearings inside the front hub assemblies. I had to replace my drivers side thankfully no wear on the axel stub.
So very 30k inspect needle bearing and 4x4 hubs.
You guys may think I'm crazy but I inspect the house with a somewhat similar schedule too lol. Keeps me busy
Should I change more often
at 5000 miles, I change oil, oil filter, drain fuel separator, lube front end, lube door/tail gate hinges/latches and do an overall inspection. I have attached a checklist that I use.
I do have a question though. Until recently, my daily commute was about 30 miles of mostly highway, so that 5000 miles went by pretty fast. Now, I drive the truck a lot less and its mostly city driving. It may take me 6 months or more to get to that 5K service. Should I change it more often? BTW, I use rotella 15w/40,
at 5000 miles, I change oil, oil filter, drain fuel separator, lube front end, lube door/tail gate hinges/latches and do an overall inspection. I have attached a checklist that I use.
I do have a question though. Until recently, my daily commute was about 30 miles of mostly highway, so that 5000 miles went by pretty fast. Now, I drive the truck a lot less and its mostly city driving. It may take me 6 months or more to get to that 5K service. Should I change it more often? BTW, I use rotella 15w/40,
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12,048 Posts
Pope,
By the way you don't really wait 60,000 miles to change your fuel filter do you...... 15k max but most recommend every 10k
Personally if you don't drive a lot of miles at least once or twice a year is appropriate. The biggest thing is getting the engine oil warmed up to help eliminate moisture that builds up.
No matter well an engine runs ESP with diesels some coolant and or fuel will be present allowing moisture to build up.
I do about 11k miles a year past few years so 5000-5500 miles I change my oil. I've never towed or pushed my trucks so much that I changed more often.
By the way you don't really wait 60,000 miles to change your fuel filter do you...... 15k max but most recommend every 10k
Personally if you don't drive a lot of miles at least once or twice a year is appropriate. The biggest thing is getting the engine oil warmed up to help eliminate moisture that builds up.
No matter well an engine runs ESP with diesels some coolant and or fuel will be present allowing moisture to build up.
I do about 11k miles a year past few years so 5000-5500 miles I change my oil. I've never towed or pushed my trucks so much that I changed more often.
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889 Posts
5K is pretty conservative, you should switch to Rotella 5w40 synthetic next time around
Good catch. Actually I've changed it on my hardcopy log that I work off of. But forgot to change it on the digital copy.
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