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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Oil pan was rotten on my 2001 f250 so here are some photos of the goings on during my unplanned vacation due to the virus.
I did NOT use that engine stand... Had to run to harbor fright to get the 2000# capacity haha.

Close to 15 years of leaking boots turbo o rings and other failures. Plus a mouses home helping soak up the oil in the valley.

The pig happy on the proper stand

Pulling the horrible cast Chinese’s exhaust manifolds off. Look at these bolt heads!

What a nightmare

Insane hahaha


Pulled the injectors and brought them to Garden State Diesel where they were cleaned tested and re o ringed.



Hpop removed more to clean the mouse nest and replace o rings in the oil line connections.

Same with the fuel bowl. Thanks to dieselorings.com who do full kits and write ups on how to.

Same with the oil cooler. I did learn the hard way it is aluminum and broke the cooler half that connects to the filter with a rubber mallet. Be sure to use a ratchet strap to reconnect the housings.

Motor flipped over and old sealant gasket removed. I may or may not have dropped a razor blade into the front case. Thankfully a quick flip right side up and it came out. Phewwwwww

This project took up the whole shop. In the front there I have the new oil pan I coated with truck bed liner. It’s a hard sorta of textured spray.

After an anxiety filled moment of applying the bead to reseal the pan I was able to get it on solo and torque the bolts back in. It’s sitting for 24 hrs now.

I’ll update as she goes back together. Many thanks to Riff Raff diesel and diesel o rings. Cheapest prices around. Just try and get it all done in one order as I have 3-5 orders into them hahaha.


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Discussion Starter #2
They weren’t kidding when they said they “shoehorned” the 7.3 in a 250 frame. But there still room to swim. Here I am sanding rust and putting stainless front brake lines and a new trans cooler line that somehow lives in a horrible place routed underneath the motor and chassis.



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Props to you man, it's a good time for it! It'll be a nice feeling having it all done and leak free. Also, your social distancing is appreciated!
 

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WOW.....WENT FROM A 7.3 DIESEL.....ALL THE WAY DOWN TO A 1 HORSEPOWER FLINTSTONE MOBILE.....HAHAHAHA.....:D

I SOOOO.....ENVY THOSE OF YOU WHO HAVE AN INDOOR SHOP / GARAGE TO WORK IN.....

GREAT PROJECT.....KEEP THOSE PHOTOS COMING.....
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Was waiting on parts from riff raff, I decided to get all new Ford hard fuel lines as I had to cut the return line. And the others were all rusted. Also the seals on all the connections were shot. So after that was all installed I put the harness back on and it was ready to go in!


I struggled most trying to get the trans lined up. That damn deep sump of the oil pan is so annoying trying to jimmy it back in. I had to jack the trans as high as I could so the engine could meet it high and then have it all come down as one. Thankfully my dad and my neighbor came by to help out. My rough concrete driveway and the steel wheels on the hoist made it a bear to move just a half inch. Every “just a hair” had the motor swinging wildly. Eventually with me under the truck we were able to get the mounting studs lined up correctly and the trans finally slipped in. I think the flex plate and bell housing were the biggest issue. After that how ever it was just a matter of getting it back together. Wish I took more pics but here is one from last night.


I’m worried my condenser is shot. After moving it climbing over it and so on. We’ll see tho. I never heard the thing hissing so who knows?

As per riff raffs instructions I’ve left the valve cover wiring harness disconnected to purge the system with oil. This thing is dry of fuel, coolant, and more concerning OIL. Having pulled the injectors flipped it over more then once and then evacuating the cylinders of fuel and oil I can imagine the time I’ll have trying to start it.


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Discussion Starter #6
Also here is what my injectors looked like before and after GSD garden state diesel serviced them.






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Also here is what my injectors looked like before and after GSD garden state diesel serviced them.


IF YOU DON'T MIND.....CAN I ASK WHAT THEY CHARGED TO CHECK / RECONDITION YOUR INJECTORS?....

AND HOW LONG IT TOOK THEM?....

THANKS.....
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It was right around $400. I got there right when this virus was a real scare last week. He did it in 24 hours! It’s an hour ride from my house but well worth it.


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Discussion Starter #9
Now the engine back in. Started after multiple attempts. Even did the riff raff procedure no valve harness connected. Finally got her going. Now I’m chasing a horrible exhaust leak. From where I have no idea (drivers side I think). Truck has NO balls and even threw a service engine soon light which I’m assuming came from low turbo spool or whatever. Any help would be great. I installed GPP manifolds off Amazon. Yes I know... idiot!!! But with good reviews I caved. They came with gaskets which I put in clay from riff raff advised against, unless the old ones were leaking BUT the old manifolds had gaskets so I figured what’s the harm? I guess now the question is to find how do you find an exact exhaust leak?


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Discussion Starter #10
Figured it out. The horrible ticking notorious for a manifold leak seemed to be coming from my feet but it was closer to the center of the truck. Right where the turbo meets the collector from the up pipes.

The collector and turbo connection is basically like trying to solve a Rubik’s cube with your arms pinched behind the firewall and by touch, no sight. I used a camera, a mirror a light a torch light. Whatever could help. Anyway long story short I had to disconnect the up pipes from the exhaust manifolds to have some wiggle in the y connector. Finally got that little ****ING pin into the turbo into the collector. Then Shoved a rag against the firewall and the collector to keep it in place while you try to get the clamp back up and over. All while you’re laying on top of the entire truck engine. I’m being dramatic yes but damn that sucked!!!!

After a drive the truck ran fine. Service engine soon came on after I blew a boot off a CAC pipe due to me forgetting to tighten it. I still however hear the slightest hiss from the turbo. I’m thinking down pipe. But god I don’t wanna mess around anymore. It runs strong now!


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Holy **** dude what an undertaking. I'm jealous actually. What's your thoughts on the injector cleaning? I'm finding mixed information whether or not you're supposed to. I have to say your injectors look outstanding after coming back from Garden State.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Holy **** dude what an undertaking. I'm jealous actually. What's your thoughts on the injector cleaning? I'm finding mixed information whether or not you're supposed to. I have to say your injectors look outstanding after coming back from Garden State.
I figured since I had them out and wanted to look at the cups what the hell. I had researched doing it on your own and it seems too in depth for me. As for results, he ultrasonic cleaned and flow tested each one. The flow test to me is worth it because even if you rebuild them you’re just guessing at this point. They all passed and Garden State re o ringed them and installed.

What I have noticed, once I got all the air out of the oil rails which Took days!

1. Cold starts when I don’t wait for the glow plugs show no smoke upon start up.

2. Slightly better mpg

And honestly that is it. The truck itself was running fine before this endeavor besides for horrible cold starts, and the injector clean or the new valve cover gaskets/ glow plugs/ injector glow plug harness could have anything to do with helping. In the end I’m glad I did it but whose to say the truck would be running the same way if I just re ringed them and slapped them back in? Too many variables.

Just curious, what have people said about cleaning/not cleaning injectors?


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I appreciate it, I completely agree with your point on variables. My valve covers are starting to leak (I think, could be a few things) which is driving me crazy. Hitting 200k and wondering when the injectors are going to go.

The frackin dip stick leak just stated on my xc drive today, so I know what I’m doing tomorrow!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Honestly from what I saw I bet it is rust that has found its way between the valve cover and the heads. When I took the gaskets off which are reusable (I changed them) there was as heavy lip of rust about 1/8 of an inch from the outside in. Also the bottom lip of my driver side valve cover was pretty rusty along with the ccv doghouse. All these parts new from dorman were over $250 so I just sealed the mating surfaces with paint and the new o rings for the ccv housing and new gaskets. Just make sure to scrape all the rust away if there is any when putting it back together. I’d recommend diesel orings for the ccv orings. Much cheaper then fords and he knows his materials. The old orings for the ccv will be useless when you take it off the valve cover. Good luck!


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