Yes do it while its still fresh in your head it sbould make it easier .Sleave retaining compound or loctite , has to have it . Sorry bro
7.3 cranks but won't start.
Hey all, new to the 7.3 platform and have hit a wall.
A couple days ago I put all new o rings and fittings on the hpop because it was leaking, and after installing it, put oil into the hpop res, cranked it over and it started after a couple of seconds. It ran and idled fine for the first 10 seconds, then the motor started clacking really loud, and after a couple of seconds died on its own, it seemed like it wasn't running on all cylinders and it was shaking. I cranked the motor for longer this time and it started up and then died immediately. It started and died immediately about twice. After that, I checked the hpop res and it was basically empty. I added oil 1/2 inch from the top and it started, I tried revving it up but wouldn't go past 1500 rpm even with the pedal to the floor, no engine clack when I got above 1000 rpms, motor dies as soon as I let off the pedal, I did that twice. When cranking there was a consistent ticking sound coming from the motor. Next cranking runs I didn't fill the hpop res (reservoir was basically empty again when I checked) and the motor doesn't want to start anymore, just cranking with that ticking noise, and a CEL comes after about 30 seconds of cranking then turns off immediately when I stop cranking. Cranked it long like that about 4 times, and the same result, hpop res was always empty. It would try to start if fill up the reservoir but never does now unless I put oil in the res, but even then, it doesn't want to run. I eventually overfilled the engine, but I needed to change the oil anyways. Still the same thing with fresh oil.
I haven't checked to see if oil is moving into the reservoir while cranking, haven't had a second hand to check that.. But Im assuming oil isn't moving into the reservoir because it's always empty. I'm thinking it's possibly a bad lpop, ipr? but idk could be something else?, but that ticking/knocking noise while cranking is also concerning me. I also replaced the ball and spring in the valve to the right of the hpop thinking maybe that's why is was emptying. The motor ran well at times before I took the hpop off, the cel would come on at times if I got the rpms above 2500, the light went away randomly and wouldn't come back on unless I was above 2500 rpms. Just thinking maybe that was part of this issue? Any help is appreciated, I need my truck to run and really don't want to send it off to a shop, or pay tons in parts that won't help.
Link to video of me cranking it
Quick Share
A couple days ago I put all new o rings and fittings on the hpop because it was leaking, and after installing it, put oil into the hpop res, cranked it over and it started after a couple of seconds. It ran and idled fine for the first 10 seconds, then the motor started clacking really loud, and after a couple of seconds died on its own, it seemed like it wasn't running on all cylinders and it was shaking. I cranked the motor for longer this time and it started up and then died immediately. It started and died immediately about twice. After that, I checked the hpop res and it was basically empty. I added oil 1/2 inch from the top and it started, I tried revving it up but wouldn't go past 1500 rpm even with the pedal to the floor, no engine clack when I got above 1000 rpms, motor dies as soon as I let off the pedal, I did that twice. When cranking there was a consistent ticking sound coming from the motor. Next cranking runs I didn't fill the hpop res (reservoir was basically empty again when I checked) and the motor doesn't want to start anymore, just cranking with that ticking noise, and a CEL comes after about 30 seconds of cranking then turns off immediately when I stop cranking. Cranked it long like that about 4 times, and the same result, hpop res was always empty. It would try to start if fill up the reservoir but never does now unless I put oil in the res, but even then, it doesn't want to run. I eventually overfilled the engine, but I needed to change the oil anyways. Still the same thing with fresh oil.
I haven't checked to see if oil is moving into the reservoir while cranking, haven't had a second hand to check that.. But Im assuming oil isn't moving into the reservoir because it's always empty. I'm thinking it's possibly a bad lpop, ipr? but idk could be something else?, but that ticking/knocking noise while cranking is also concerning me. I also replaced the ball and spring in the valve to the right of the hpop thinking maybe that's why is was emptying. The motor ran well at times before I took the hpop off, the cel would come on at times if I got the rpms above 2500, the light went away randomly and wouldn't come back on unless I was above 2500 rpms. Just thinking maybe that was part of this issue? Any help is appreciated, I need my truck to run and really don't want to send it off to a shop, or pay tons in parts that won't help.
Link to video of me cranking it
Quick Share
21 - 27 of 27 Posts
So is the main job of the Loctite just to keep the cup retained? Or does it help with sealing too?
BothSo is the main job of the Loctite just to keep the cup retained? Or does it help with sealing too?
You are going to have to redo it.
We have a kit that comes with the sealant. We use Permatex 64000, which is the equivalent of 620, and FYI Permatex and Loctite are the same company.
cncfab.us
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
We have a kit that comes with the sealant. We use Permatex 64000, which is the equivalent of 620, and FYI Permatex and Loctite are the same company.
94.5-03 7.3L Ford OEM Injector cup set of 8 - F4TZ9F538A-SET
FORD GENUINE OEM 94.5-03 7.3L POWERSTROKE INJECTOR CUP - F4TZ9F538A Genuine Ford Original Equipment Manufacture 7.3L Powerstroke injector cup/sleeve. You will receive an actual Ford part, unlike some of our competitors that advertise OEM parts but send aftermarket.
cncfab.us
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
This is kind of going to be a long one
2 months ago I pulled my motor to reseal and figure out why my hpop wasn't getting any oil, and figured it out.
I put the motor in about 3 weeks ago and I think I'm getting good hpop pressure (my bluetooth live reader says around 900 psi when cranking). I cranked for a bout 15 seconds and let rest for a while, and did this at least 15 times by now maybe even more, and it still wont start or puff out any smoke. Just cranking and cranking, no change in tone when cranking. Everytime I crank, the check engine light comes on then immediately off when I stop cranking. The fuel bowl was full every time I checked. I removed the fuel filter and cranked the engine over to check if the bowl was filling up and it was. Fuel in the bowl moves up a little bit every full engine rotation, so I'm assuming the top portion of the fuel pump is working alright (previous owner replaced the pump about 7 months ago, I bought it 3 months ago and it was running fine before I messed with it) I blew compressed air into my fuel tank with fuel filter removed and the bowl does fill up, so I assume the line is cleared, I also blew into the return and I could hear bubbling from my tank so I assume thats cleared too. Went to crank the engine over and still no start. Then I took the bowl out, blew air through all passages, and bought a regulator repair kit and new pressure regulator seat kit (new spring was about 1mm longer than old spring) from diesel o rings, I also re sealed the whole fuel bowl. I put the fuel bowl back in without the filter and cranked the motor over to see if I had any change in fuel flow when filling up, no change. So I put the filter back in and crank the motor over a couple times for 10-15 seconds each and still no start, not even a puff and the CEL comes on then off like before. Decided to get a fuel pressure gauge and hooked that up to the schrader valve, and it stopped at 5 psi and would slowly go back down to 0 psi when I stop cranking... is that a leak somewhere? I didn't see any cranks or leaks on the lines coming from the fuel tank and all fittings and bolts on fuel related parts are tight. Just for the heck of it I disconnected one of the return lines from the fuel bowl and fuel does shoot out of it every rotation of the motor, but it does't shoot out super hard just about twice as much as the fuel coming into the bowl, and im not sure if that's what it's supposed to be like. But at least I know fuel it going through the rails. Electrical wise on the bowl, everything is connected except for the bowl heater, since that popped my 22 fuse, I ended up just removing the heater, not sure if that has anything to do with my issue, but figured I include any info about fuel.
So at this point I've hit a wall and can only think of the fuel pump maybe not operating right. Any help/advice would help
Thanks in advance.
2 months ago I pulled my motor to reseal and figure out why my hpop wasn't getting any oil, and figured it out.
I put the motor in about 3 weeks ago and I think I'm getting good hpop pressure (my bluetooth live reader says around 900 psi when cranking). I cranked for a bout 15 seconds and let rest for a while, and did this at least 15 times by now maybe even more, and it still wont start or puff out any smoke. Just cranking and cranking, no change in tone when cranking. Everytime I crank, the check engine light comes on then immediately off when I stop cranking. The fuel bowl was full every time I checked. I removed the fuel filter and cranked the engine over to check if the bowl was filling up and it was. Fuel in the bowl moves up a little bit every full engine rotation, so I'm assuming the top portion of the fuel pump is working alright (previous owner replaced the pump about 7 months ago, I bought it 3 months ago and it was running fine before I messed with it) I blew compressed air into my fuel tank with fuel filter removed and the bowl does fill up, so I assume the line is cleared, I also blew into the return and I could hear bubbling from my tank so I assume thats cleared too. Went to crank the engine over and still no start. Then I took the bowl out, blew air through all passages, and bought a regulator repair kit and new pressure regulator seat kit (new spring was about 1mm longer than old spring) from diesel o rings, I also re sealed the whole fuel bowl. I put the fuel bowl back in without the filter and cranked the motor over to see if I had any change in fuel flow when filling up, no change. So I put the filter back in and crank the motor over a couple times for 10-15 seconds each and still no start, not even a puff and the CEL comes on then off like before. Decided to get a fuel pressure gauge and hooked that up to the schrader valve, and it stopped at 5 psi and would slowly go back down to 0 psi when I stop cranking... is that a leak somewhere? I didn't see any cranks or leaks on the lines coming from the fuel tank and all fittings and bolts on fuel related parts are tight. Just for the heck of it I disconnected one of the return lines from the fuel bowl and fuel does shoot out of it every rotation of the motor, but it does't shoot out super hard just about twice as much as the fuel coming into the bowl, and im not sure if that's what it's supposed to be like. But at least I know fuel it going through the rails. Electrical wise on the bowl, everything is connected except for the bowl heater, since that popped my 22 fuse, I ended up just removing the heater, not sure if that has anything to do with my issue, but figured I include any info about fuel.
So at this point I've hit a wall and can only think of the fuel pump maybe not operating right. Any help/advice would help
Thanks in advance.
when you say check the oil in hpo rectangular thing in front of fuel filter, ?motor oil, or fuel oil ? mike.Try to read the code that is stored in the PCM... that would help tremendously with diagnostic.
HPOP loosing prime probably has something to do with the check valve assembly that you fiddled with.
The HPOP reservoir should have oil no lower than 1" from the top of the inspection plug.
Also by opening up the HPO system, it can take a lot of cranking and then driving to purge the air from the HPO system. With air in the HPO system you can get all kinds of funny noises and running conditions.
I'd suggest removing the valve covers and while cranking look for oil coming from each injector spout... no oil means the injector(s) isn't firing.
PS.... holy hell... try to limit cranking for 5-10 seconds at a time, otherwise you'll be buying a new starter sooner than later. Also have the batteries on a charger to keep them topped off while cranking a bunch of times.
21 - 27 of 27 Posts
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