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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm posting here because this gets more traffic then the electronics section.

So I'm finally getting around to wiring up my 50" curved light bar and decided to go with some OTRATTW switches. I got the Contura V switch, green lower light and red upper light with the lower being independent. Along with the switch I also purchased their 6 switch holder for their switches and a fuse box that has 6 separate channels along with a negative bus.

Switch: https://otrattw.net/CONTURA-V-LED-LIGHT-BAR-LOWER-LED-INDEPENDENT-V1D1JCHB-PZCLB-540.html

Switch holder: https://otrattw.net/Six-Position-V-Series-Switch-Holder.html

Fuse box: https://otrattw.net/Blue-Sea-ST-Blade-Fuse-Block-With-Cover-6.html

She 6 switch holder fits nearly perfect within the overhead storage on a 2007 F250 (this is the style of storage that has only a sunglasses case, and a large open hole that looks to be meant for a CB radio). I found some sheet metal laying around my house that I used as a back plate to put the switch holder on. as of now I have the back plate i made in the truck, but I do not have the hole cut out for the switch holder.

Before I go any farther I want to make sure I have the electrical stuff planned out properly, I created a little sketch that shows how I plan to wire everything. if anyone has any good electrical background could you please just look this over and let me know of any thing I'm doing wrong? (fyi the lightbar I have is 288w so 24 amp). my main concern is what gauge wire should I be using? I'm thinking about using 12g wire for everything connected to the lightbar and the relay. and then using 18g wire for everything connected to the switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
just wanted to give everyone an update. I've now finished my 6 custom toggle switches.

Originally I was going to use a metal back plate which I would mount the OTRATTW switch holder on top of. However cutting a hole in the center of the metal and getting it to fit perfect was a challenge and I ditched that idea. I ended up using half inch foam board as the trim around the switch holder.
After a few cuts and trimming of the foam it fit perfectly. I painted the foam black and glued it to the switch holder. I ended up gluing the holder into the black should in the truck.

For all the wires I ran it into the crab though the firewall where the clutch peddle normally would sit. I made a small hole and stuffed all the wires though the insulation. Using plenty of zip ties to keep it nice and clean I ran the wires up the driver side pillar and into the headliner. I drilled a inch hole in the top of the black should to bring the wires down. I ended up putting all the wire connections on even though I only have one switch at this time.

I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out. IMO it looks completely stock. If someone needs it I would be happy to make a more detailed write up or take any photos needed.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
A few more photos, and a whiting diagram of how I ended up getting the full system set up!

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I went the sPOD route and am pretty happy. I stalled on the LED lightbar. I have yet to find a decent mounting option to the rain gutters on my van. I'm curious OP how you're mounting yours?
 

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· california deplorable
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I have a set of otrattwa switches and a number of lights but so far everything is still decorating boxes until i finalize my attack plan :doh:
lookin good though guys
motivation to get to mine
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
For my light bar I used the windshield mount from rough country. The top of the light bar sits about an inch above the highest point of the roof. However you could push the brackets up or down slightly if you wanted to move it in either direction.

The only complaint about the windshield mount I have is the fact that it can be noisy on the highway, the easiest fix I found is to just tilt it down slightly, you can't notice it by looking at it but much less wind noise on the highway.

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· california deplorable
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because thieves suck...
 

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For my light bar I used the windshield mount from rough country. The top of the light bar sits about an inch above the highest point of the roof. However you could push the brackets up or down slightly if you wanted to move it in either direction.

The only complaint about the windshield mount I have is the fact that it can be noisy on the highway, the easiest fix I found is to just tilt it down slightly, you can't notice it by looking at it but much less wind noise on the highway.

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That looks nice and clean. But you still have to anchor the mount with screws into the sheet metal? My van has rain gutters so I was looking around for a clamp type system but haven't had much luck with anything I like.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Normally the mounts attach two ways, either self tapping screws, or rivits. The rough country mounts (what I have) use 3 rivits per mount.

At first I was very hesitant to drill a hole in the metal but then I came to the conclusion that if I ever feel like removing the mount all I need to do is drill out the rivit and pull it off. This will leave a hole in the sheet metal that you could either fill with with metal filler, or insert a larger rivet and use a paint pin to cover it up. No one will ever see the rivits because it is behind the weatherstripping for the door.

If you need any more info or photos of exactly how I did the wiring just let me know! Oh and always use a gauge of wire larger then you need, the last thing you want is a wire to get too hot and catch on fire inside your headliner :look:
 

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Normally the mounts attach two ways, either self tapping screws, or rivits. The rough country mounts (what I have) use 3 rivits per mount.

At first I was very hesitant to drill a hole in the metal but then I came to the conclusion that if I ever feel like removing the mount all I need to do is drill out the rivit and pull it off. This will leave a hole in the sheet metal that you could either fill with with metal filler, or insert a larger rivet and use a paint pin to cover it up. No one will ever see the rivits because it is behind the weatherstripping for the door.

If you need any more info or photos of exactly how I did the wiring just let me know! Oh and always use a gauge of wire larger then you need, the last thing you want is a wire to get too hot and catch on fire inside your headliner :look:
Good info. Thanks! Are you also running your wire through the weather stripping? I was going to go through the roof with a watertight deck connector so I can take the light on and off. The main reason why I want the LED is for finding campsites in the dark when off road.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I wouldn't recommend drilling a hole in the roof unless it's 100% necessary. I ran the wiring down the inside of the weather stripping. When the weather stripping tucks under the front finder there is a gap in the metal you can send the wires into to bypass the hing of the hood. The wires will come out by the wireloom and you can leave all your wiring inside the engine bay.
 
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I wouldn't recommend drilling a hole in the roof unless it's 100% necessary. I ran the wiring down the inside of the weather stripping. When the weather stripping tucks under the front finder there is a gap in the metal you can send the wires into to bypass the hing of the hood. The wires will come out by the wireloom and you can leave all your wiring inside the engine bay.
Do you have a picture of your wire routing from the light to the engine bay?

Does the rubber seal still fit well with the bracket and wiring or did you need to trim it?
 
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