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Discussion Starter #1
Hi there, I hope someone can help me. I have a 2006 drw f-350, 6.0l with a 6 speed manual. My last trip home from holidays I was pulling my boat, 7000lbs, and found that after a hill climb when shifting from 4th to fifth the clutch would go in hard and stick to the floor. It would come up if I pulled the pedal up with my foot. It also did this when I started from stop and went through the gears to get up to hwy speed, 3000 rpm shifts. other than that it worked as normal. I checked the spring under the dash as a few people have suggested, but all seems normal. I have read others with this same strange phenomena but no one seems to have any post on an answer. Fluids in the slave res are good.

Thanks for reading and any help you can give me.
:ford:
 

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I have the same problem. But I don't haul anything.. mine is happening under hard throttle so far in 3rd 4th and also in OD.. I do a lot of highway driving and half on my main trip is on two lane so I do a lot of passing. If I give it hard throttle ( I say close to 3/4 or full throttle) the clutch is depressed and I have to pull it with my foot. I haven't given it hard throttle in 1st or 2nd to see if it does it in those gears also because I am worried about burning up the clutch or damaging the tranny. It just recently started doing this and it's kinda making me worry I have burnt up the clutch which I don't know how it would already be burnt up.. 96K miles. Any help would be appreciated!
 

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I would suggest trying to replace the master and slave it's fairly cheap and a good point to start. Sounds like a hydraulic issue they are known to be cheap setups made out of plastic.


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Are there aftermarket master or slave cylinders? Or would it be best to just get the stock parts?
 

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Well I don't know of any aftermarket but from any dealer you can get a pre bled. That's where I got mine. I'm not postive that's yours or the op's problem just what I would do it's worth a shot. I'm sure one of the site vendors can get you one for a good deal.


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Does $400 sound right for parts and labor for master and slave replacement?
 

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I paid 200 for the setup it doesn't take no two hours to do it. It's not hard I'm sure you can do it yourself.


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Well I told the guy to order the parts and do it.. All the shops back home are more than a week before they can get to it and same here except this guy. So he will get to it Friday and hopefully it will fix this annoying freaking problem.
I would do it myself but I just don't have the time with school.. so I guess I will just get gouged this time.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Has anyone had this issue and had it resolved yet? i havent had it do it again during the winter months but boating season is around the corner.
 

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I had it happen and I got the master and slave replaced. Still did it. I'm having a south bend clutch kit installed.
 

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I had it happen and I got the master and slave replaced. Still did it. I'm having a south bend clutch kit installed.
Has the new clutch solved the problem? I am having this problem when I get into the rpm's,and then when I shift, the clutch's engagement point begins when the pedal is almost on the floor. Sometimes the pedal sticks down too.
 

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Has the new clutch solved the problem? I am having this problem when I get into the rpm's,and then when I shift, the clutch's engagement point begins when the pedal is almost on the floor. Sometimes the pedal sticks down too.
Yes sir it did. I would still get the slave and master replaced before you go out and buy a new clutch. But yes the new clutch fixed the problem. I didn't even get the clutch broken in before I sold the truck. I'm in a 6.7 stroker now:icon_ford:
 

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No 400 doesn't sound right. I replace both of mine in 30 minutes! You can upgrade and metal slave I do believe but isn't all that necessary. My advice would be to pull the system all off together. Connect your line to the new parts and bleed it on the bench. To remove the slave you have to push it in and turn it a quarter turn or so and it pops right out. The master is self explanatory.
 

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When replacing the clutch if you have a dual mass flywheel a solid fly needs to go back in. Call a dealer and give them your vin to verify. Mine already had the single. If so it will save you money because all you really need to do is have the fly checked and resurfaced
 

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No 400 doesn't sound right. I replace both of mine in 30 minutes! You can upgrade and metal slave I do believe but isn't all that necessary. My advice would be to pull the system all off together. Connect your line to the new parts and bleed it on the bench. To remove the slave you have to push it in and turn it a quarter turn or so and it pops right out. The master is self explanatory.
Who sells the metal slave cylinder?? I've been looking for alternate versions.


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How heavy is the clutch pedal on a stock clutch and or and upgraded clutch? Mine is REALLY light, could that indicate that the clutch on its way out?

I bought the truck used so it could have already had the clutch replaced/upgraded (to one with a lighter pedal), I doubt it though.

Also if I try a hard acceleration from a stop and shift 1-2, then second will grind, almost like the clutch isn't disengaging. It is always accompanied by the pedal getting stiff and actually coming up closer to me as the rpm's rise. Then I'll try to shift and the pedal sticks down, followed by grinding as I go into second. This is also made MUCH worse when I'm running a tune. I'm by no means experienced with diagnosing a problem like this, but because it happens in the higher rpm's (and high power) it makes me think that either the throw out or pilot bearings have gone.
 

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Just had this happen this week for the first time when pulling a load into traffic. Clutch works perfect until I jump on it, then it's hard and sticks to the floor. Clutch doesn't feel like it's slipping during acceleration, just hard. Anyone find a sure fix other that replace the clutch? Did the master cylinder and slave cylinder fix anyone up without a new clutch?
 
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