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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, so i thought id share my engine build with everyone. Back before it had started, I wished somebody would have had a detailed thread on their 6.4 build. So I thought i might as well do one so if people ever ran into trouble, they have something to go off of.

So to start things off, I have a 2008 6.4 powerstroke. It has 144k miles on it. Not too much done although i had big plans with it eventually. It was deleted, some innovative tunes, exhaust, intake, and thats about it.

One night on my way home i noticed a chevy on my ***, so i decided id give him a little show. Well did i ever. After pegging my 1500* EGT gauge for over a minute straight, i noticed a huge loss of power. Luckily i was just about to pull into my driveway. Once i did i stopped the truck, and it was misfiring really bad. im talking a dead miss. Oil was all over my truck, (surefire sign i cracked a piston) white smoke coming out of my stack, etc. So i knew the build was about to begin. and that i was pulling my motor very soon.

Im going to post pictures in the comments, as i talk more about it. Im 3-4 months into it as of now. so there is a lot to cover to get caught up. and ill continue this thread as long as it takes to get done, talking in detail about things to help out future 6.4 builds.

Thanks for reading i hope everything will help, and enjoy!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
I forgot to talk about the actual build!

Basically my long term goal is four digits.. yep 1000hp. but as of now, ill just be building the engine to handle that kind of power, so im hoping a good 700hp when i put it back in the truck. then once i get a new trans ill throw the rest of it together.

Also ill be building a custom single turbo kit for this truck. everything from the oil lines to the pedastal. so if youd like to see that stay tuned.

anyway heres the build list!
.030 HD de lipped pistons
elite stage 1.5 valvesprings
elite stage 2 pushrods
all new bearings (cam, main, and rod)
ARP head studs
ARP rod bolts
Stock rods will do the job just fine
everything else will be replaced with OEM parts
re-ground cam (specs when the time comes)
new heads (mine were cracked)
Bottem end balanced to 5500rpm
Custom t4 pedastal
borg warner S366 (will be running an S471 when i go for 1000)
100% over Nozzles (havent decided brand, any suggestions?)
diesel dr Dual k16.
zex nitrous kit (also when i go for the 1000)

so theres the list of the build! next ill start posting pics of taking the engine out!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So heres my truck, the morning after the truck decided to say its goodbyes.



Now i had a problem, i had no place to really work. The garage is full, and my truck doesnt fit fully in it anyways, and this is too long of a project to use a buddys place.. so i said screw it, id pull the motor out, outside. and once it was out id make room in my garage so i can pull it apart in there.

Pulling a 6.4 engine out is straight forward, but a pain.. and im not doing this "by the book" hence taking the cab off.. but if your like me, you dont have a two post lift, this is how its done..
pretty much all the front coolers come out. Intercooler, ac condenser, trans coolers, powersteering cooler, radiator and whatever else is in there. batterys and trays come out, along with degas bottle, fan shround and fan, and everything that might get in the way.

Now the hardest part so far has been the damn turbos.. those are a pain to get out. yes you can get them out cab on. in fact i dont see why youd take the cab off. its not even getting to the up pipe bolts that sucks. its just trying to get the heavy things out themselves!! but trust me, a big pry bar and pulling STRAIGHT up will do it. you got to get them out of the alignment dowels then they come free.. heres a pic of my buddy whose helping me out try to pull them bare hand.. didnt work..




after the turbos out its pretty simple.. next you make sure all wiring is disconnected, you can simply detach the harness thats connected to the firewall located on the passenger side, altough i took the hard way and disconnected every single plug in on the engine so i can put new loom around the whole harness. make sure AC lines are disconnected same with powersteering. Obviously the bellhousing bolts and the torque converter bolts also. disconnect fuel lines mounted on the fuel bowl where the fuel filter sits in. and last theres a Huge ground on the bottom of the engine youll disconnect when you lift the engine a little.

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Once i started lifting the engine out it came clear the up pipes where in the way, so i took them out. But then i rounded the nut on the passenger up pipe where it connects to the manifold so i had to take the engine out with it on.. it became a problem, because where the EGR provision is on the up pipe, it would hit the fire wall before the oil pan cleared the crossmember.. so i took the oil pan off, and it cleared fine and was able to come out. Easier said than done but a lot of prying with a pry bar to disconnect the bellhousing from the tranny, and also prying the engine mounts to get them to pop out of the holes in the crossmember..



and it was out thank god!

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Next is the fun part.. getting the engine on the stand and pulling it apart!!
so you have to take the flexplate off along with the whole rear cover to get it to line up with an engine stand. Once its on the stand its pretty straight forward and easy! valve covers off, intake manifold, fuel bowl and fuel lines, hpfp and cover, front cover, heads off, etc. no particular order really just start ripping her apart! but keep track of everything.. lots of parts on these motors lol



Rip it down to where you want it! im at bare block, i took everything out but the cam cause the machine shop is going to press new cam bearings into it. and time the cam with the crank for me. but i decided to take the bed plate off and pull the crank out. a litte tip is when your taking the crank out, be careful. theres a flange pressed onto the end of the crank where your rear main seal sits. if you take it off you dont need fords cam alignment tool because theres two dots that line up on the cam and crank gear. BUT its balanced onto the crankshaft and if you take it off International says that youll have rear main seal problems the rest of the trucks life.. So keep it on and let a shop or machine shop time it for you, unless you want to spend 600 bucks on the stupid alignment tool haha.



 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
so heres what went wrong in my case with the truck.
First i cracked a piston, which is obviously a common problem.



Next my lifter decided to come apart in the #8 cylinder.



heres some of the parts i found in my oil pan.



and this is the only scoring in the cylinders. this is the cylinder that the piston cracked in, my #4 cylinder. also my #2 piston was starting to crack and had melted a little bit, but i dont have a picture.



Also my heads were cracked. both heads were bad. there was atleast one crack on each combustion chamber, and up to four cracks in some others. but i bought a set of good heads off a guy and ill be taking them to my school this week to put them in the hot tank and clean them up, and ill post pics when i do.

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Here is everyting im using to make my single turbo pedastal. Basically two 2" 90 degree bend 1 foot 304 stainless tubes. stanless t4 flange. 2 stainless exhuast manifold flanges. my s366 turbo. and a 3" 90 degree bend aluminized pipe to connect to the hot side CAC pipe. I also bought a 3.5-4" expander pipe for the down pipe with a 4" v-band flange to connect to the Downpipe. but then i figured out the s366 will fit to the stock 3.5" down pipe :dunno: oh well ill still use the expander pipe when i put the s471 on i guess haha





 

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Great thread man! I am looking forward to the progress :thumb:
 

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Dido ^^^ Definitely following. Looks to be a good build.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks everyone, im glad you guys like it! ill keep everyone posted as much as possible! Tomorrow im taking my heads in and im going to throw them into the hot tank and get them cleaned up, as well as checking for flatness to see if it needs to be machined any. Ill get some more photos!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
good news! i have a really nice place to work now! i found a local shop for rent, decided i was going to rent it out until i get this truck done. When i go up there ill take some pictures!
 

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Following this one as one day I will need to do the same. 200,000 on it now. Looked like fun taking it out. Never thought about asking a shop to rent some space, good idea. You have a timeline on when you hope to finish? Have fun on the build. Oh, and why go with a single turbo?
 

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Being this deep into it, I would really think hard on the rods. No doubt, the factory ones are very stout, but they were never intended to handle 1000 HP. If you plan to run a single, that will definitely help, but I would lean towards rods with your goals in mind. What are you thinking turbo wise in the end?
 

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Subscribed... I didn't know you could run a s366 on a 6.4 as as a single I thought it was too small. And here I am with a almost new s366 trimmed to a 74mm sitting in an obs 7.3 I'll be selling soon..... Lol
 
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