[Bigbaldy]

So I got the idea for this after needing clearance for my red-neck oil cooler idea and it has kind of taken center stage of my efforts in order to get my truck back on the road.

I’ve read multiple threads and searched Until my eyes bled for pictures of other installs. I was going to wait until I had it in and running but whatever here goes.

The manifold arrived today and I’ve already clearanced it for the oil filter and thermostat housing. I had to grind a little off the passenger side to clear the heater return pipe but that may have been from me messing around with the pipe to clear the alternator bracket.

I saw where others had retained the stock 6.0 alternator location. I figured the 6.4 bracket might be an option since a few people were able to use the 6.4 alternator on a 6.0. Sure enough it will bolt up with a little grinding to clear the heater return inlet. I’m going to try just flipping the ac compressor and bolting back up, if not I think I can swap it to something with the hoses mounted differently like a 2001 focus compressor looks like it might work. I bought a pulley for a dual alternator 6.0 that mounts to the crank in order to run a second belt as that’s where the bracket puts the alternator at now. I could have run one of the shortened alternators that are the same as the dual alt setup but I wanted to be able to get one with more amps.

I plan on making my own adapter/clocking ring to use my 6.0 intake elbow. It doesn’t look like it should be too hard to machine it out of a block of aluminum. I might even be able to make it cover the 45 degree angle difference between the two intakes.

Currently I’m in the middle of degreasing the hell out of the intake. I thought mine was bad, the one I got off eBay is filled with the thickest sludge that is somehow still able to smear anything that touches it.

Ok enough reading, now for the pics.
I have more if anyone is interested, I just decided to upload a few because of my phones connection.

 

[Bigbaldy]

If idle hands are the devils playground, then he had some fun tonight. While waiting for more parts to arrive and doing an oil change on the Camry, I figured let’s see how hard it is to cut down the inner rows of posts. Well the drill bit I had chewed right through them. Now I just have to go in with a cutting wheel on the bottom and clean up the tops with a burr wheel then tap the holes for a 3/8 npt plug.

the inside bolts I’m debating what to use. Hex head, Allen head or does it really matter when I have stock heads anyway. Maybe whenever I have a long block built then I’ll try to get some KDD icons.

 

[krazyk]

What is the intended purpose of this?

 

[Bigbaldy]

Mostly just to be able to say I did it and I like tinkering with my truck. Removing the oil cooler will be a lot easier now.

If it results in lower cruising EGTs or better throttle response then that would be cool but that’s about all I think this might do for it.

 

[Heavy_GD]

Keep going with the updates.

 

[krazyk]

Thats why I asked. Seems the Odawg would be so much easier without all the fitment issues. If your in no hurry and its an experiment, well carry on.

 

[Bigbaldy]

Thats why I asked. Seems the Odawg would be so much easier without all the fitment issues. If your in no hurry and its an experiment, well carry on.

ohh I agree if I wanted to bolt on and go then I would have bought an Odawg S3R. But I like doing things myself to. Luckily I don’t need my truck for business or as a daily so I can do this.

 

[Bigbaldy]

A little bit of progress.

the MAP sensor barb from the 6.0 fits perfectly. The IAT sensor doesn’t. The 6.0 sensor is threaded for M16 x 1.5. The 6.4 is a little bit smaller. Drilling and tapping was easy I just had to wait for the them to arrive in the mail.

I also tried attacking the posts again but I think I need to get better bits or a dremel to get in the ports in order to cut the bottom flat for the bolt face.

Im going to use some M6 x 1.0 button head bolts about 30mm should be about right from my rough measurements. Add in some sealing washers for good measure.

 

[Bigbaldy]

Ohh how I wish I had a milling machine or even a drill press. I’m still making progress though. Got the adapter mostly made. Now I have to finish hogging out the center of it.

 

[Bigbaldy]

So I got bored and mad at the intake and went full send with a 3/4 inch drill bit and boogered it a little too much. I ordered another one off eBay and I’ll just use this one as a template working on the adapter.

If/when the time comes I’ll swap to a true ported one or an Odawg one. Right now I want to just get it in and running. Swapping one will be a lot easier as it pretty much slides right out past the turbo.

I decided to switch to an ac compressor from an 05 E350because the ports look like they are out of the way from where the alternator wants to be. I’ll have to get a new receiver/drier and recharge the system but that’s ok I’ve rebuilt a whole ac system before. Pics of the compressor and alternator mock up I’ll have in the next few days.

 

[Bigbaldy]

I’ve been hacking away at it. I only get a couple hours in the evening during the week and the weekend is where real progress happens.

I figured out the right die grinder bit and best speed to use (slowest), for the aluminum bar stock. I’ve decided to call it close enough now that I’ve got it matched to the elbow and intake. Today was a good calm day outside so I decided to paint them. I had ford blue and black gloss engine enamel. Black won the coin toss.

While waiting for them to dry, I’m working on the a/c system. The compressor I used clears everything I just have to bend the tubes a little because it turns the fittings 90 degrees and the fitting needed to be clearanced for the center post of the compressor. I figured while I’m at it I may as well pull the orifice tube and I’m glad I did because there was some junk built up in it. Gonna order the right tube. This one came out pretty easy, I was worried it would break and I’d need the special tool to pull it.

That’s about all I’ve done so far. Ohh and I think I’m going to relocate the second battery to the passenger side so I can eliminate that cable in front of the radiator and I’m looking into adding an oil catch can for the ccv in the hopes of keeping oil out of the intake.

 

[Bigbaldy]

Got the manifold all mounted up. Had to trim the 6.0 intake bolts shorter to make them work. Installing it is so much easier if you mount the gaskets to the intake and push the bolts through them. The rubber rings in the gasket will hold them to it and keep them from falling off. Extended the IAT wires and mocked up the hot side cac tube and it looks like it’ll clear everything without having to take a hammer to it.
Did some fitting for the alternator and serpentine belts. The stock small case alt will barely fit. A large case alt will push against the fender liner. A heat gun and a block of wood made enough room for it. The rear belt is still an 8 rib the front one is 6. Swap the smooth pulleys on the tensioners for the 6.4 and they work just fine. The rear belt I’ll have to order an 8 rib 99 inch belt and the front belt I lucked out and the belt from my junk focus that I pull parts off of is the perfect fit. Bought a 6 groove pulley just because. I know a 6 rib will work ok on a 8 groove but I figured do it now and get at least that part right. Waiting for a few odds and ends parts to show up like another pulley and pulley bolt and orifice tube and new ac hoses since the one I found online looks like it’s aluminum so I can bend it to fit easier.

 

[Bigbaldy]

The 8 rib rear belt was super tight when I tried putting it on so I ordered a smaller pulley dayco 89053, which appears to be the same as the other pulley from the 6.0. It’s better but still kinda a tight fit.

Been painting the cac tubes and troubleshooting why the dash and ign weren’t getting power. I can jump the starter and it spins ok.

As if I needed a reason to want a new radiator, somehow something hit it while leaning against the wall in the shed. In researching better radiators I’ve found all sorts from 1-4 core. I decided well why not cut it open and see what the stock one was. It was a single core of about 1.5 inches wide with about 93 passages so that’s what I’ll try to find something similar. Want to go all aluminum. I don’t tow heavy but I’d like to at least match the factory for cooling capacity.

 

[TooManyToys]

The fin count per inch and whether the fins are louvered are just as important when you are searching. I'd also check if the tubes have dimples to have flow turbulence.

 

[Bigbaldy]

Well after many trials and tribulations I have finally got her to start and run and without throwing a belt which I was unsure about with an unproven belt arrangement. I’m calling it a win for now. I just need to finish up some other loose ends and track down a couple leaks and then I think I’ll be ready some shakedown runs.

Apparently I forgot to reinstall the anti-drain back valve in the oil filter housing. Got that figured out then it really wanted to start but it was kinda cold out here and at some point the circuit breaker between the alternator and the batteries had tripped. The glow plugs were wired off the breaker also so even though the dash light said they were on they weren’t. I stuck a heat gun in the intake filter housing and that brought the IAT up enough so that when it was running I noticed it still wasn’t charging good. Reset the breaker and now it does a good 13.5-14 volts at idle. I’m using a Bosch AL7606N which with the 2.44 inch pulley and the crank pulley looks to be just a little bit smaller than the main crank pulley must be spinning it good because I don’t remember it putting out that much at idle before.

 

[TooManyToys]

With the smaller pulley, it outputs at idle like it's a 160-180a unit.