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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So i just bought a 04 6.0. Its cold where im at so i started it up and let it idle for about 30 minutes. Everything sounded normal when i started it and walked inside. After i came back out i noticed i didnt hear the turbo at all (i did not think anything of it) so i went for a drive and out of no where the turbo just started to spool very loud and then would cut back out at a stop light and keep doing that over and over. It was either full boost or nothing at all. I got back home and unplugged the connector to the solenoid and nothing changed so i plugged it back in and as soon as i did the turbo started back up and sounded normal. But when i drove it, it seemed like it was having a very hard time shifting and the turbo would bark every time i let off the gas pedal. Any help would be great im pretty new to the 6.0s the truck also has a egr delete
 

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Mr. Crossthread
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So i just bought a 04 6.0. Its cold where im at so i started it up and let it idle for about 30 minutes. Everything sounded normal when i started it and walked inside. After i came back out i noticed i didnt hear the turbo at all (i did not think anything of it) so i went for a drive and out of no where the turbo just started to spool very loud and then would cut back out at a stop light and keep doing that over and over. It was either full boost or nothing at all. I got back home and unplugged the connector to the solenoid and nothing changed so i plugged it back in and as soon as i did the turbo started back up and sounded normal. But when i drove it, it seemed like it was having a very hard time shifting and the turbo would bark every time i let off the gas pedal. Any help would be great im pretty new to the 6.0s
The vanes opening and closing at idle is normal, its called vane sweep and it will occur more often if a problem is detected or a turbo relearn is needed. Do you have a monitor or a way to read ebp, map, vgt%?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
no the turbo when i cant hear it at idle it wont even begin to spool until way late like 1500rpms and when it does the thing sounds like its full boost
 

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Also sometimes i will be driving and take off and there will be no turbo spool at all. then out of no where is kicks in and will stop completely at a stop light.
 

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Mr. Crossthread
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I misread, my bad. Is vgt % dropping to 15% when this happens? Sounds more like a vgt solenoid connector or wiring issue if the turbo just cuts out randomly.
 

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Mr. Crossthread
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Mr. Crossthread
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Unison ring hanging up? @waggonerj
The way hes describing it sounds like the turbo will randomly shut off. Unless I am still misunderstanding what is going on. Lol Had a long day yesterday.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
 

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Ok so the did a voltage test and the solenoid is getting power. When I drove it today the turbo kicked on and sounded very normal. But when I went to go drive it I still had the overboost issue. So I parked it and tried to unplug the solenoid to see if it changed, it did. The turbo cut out. No matter how easy I am on the truck it is turbo farting like crazy. I’m not sure what to check next.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Should I pull the turbo off and try to clean it? Isn’t the veins are working if I unplug the solenoid and it cuts out?
 

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EDIT: I see you have an over post so may not point as much to the turbo clogged as I thought. My experience is with a P0299 TURBO UNDERBOOST.

Your symptoms point towards a possible clogged turbo. THe ring does not bind all the time, only when it wants to. When I had my turbo that needed cleaned , VGTs were hitting 85%, not 15% lime yours are. 15% can be a sign.

Done yourself, pulling the turbo is free, maybe $10 or so for the O-Ring kit. I’d dedicate an entire Saturday to cleaning it and getting it put back in. I personally hate pulling the turbo. Once out, the middle band comes off and you separate with a rubber hammer. With the unison ring, those are not over the counter items, so depending on your situation and how long the truck can be down, may be worth the money to order it before the work startsx.
 

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Like was mentioned - you need to check MAP, BARO, EBP KOEO to compare sensor values. They should be within ~0.5psi of each other or pretty close. Some code readers or monitors read EBP differently (and some even incorrectly), so let us know what you're using to read, because that can make a difference in troubleshooting. Then go take it for a drive and watch those values move, but also watch your VGT% as also mentioned. If you can get some pics or screen captures while driving, that's even better.

You can pull the turbo if you want, but there is a method to our madness :D

-jokester
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So I pulled the ebp sensor and hose off. The sensor looks good and so does the pigtail. Now the tube was clogged solid. I cleaned it out and put it all back together...Still same issue. It’s overboosting then after It warms up a bit the turbo just cut out completely. When it’s over boosting the truck has no power and it struggles to shift. But when the turbo underboost the truck gets some power back and shifts normal.
 

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And you also cleaned out the fitting on the exhaust manifold that the tube connects to, right?

-joketer
 
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