My girlfriend has a 2005 6.0, has never had any problems with the heads or anything! Around 60,000 miles I put an 03 turbo, 4'' exhaust, AFE Stage 2 and an SCT Livewire on it... It now has 72,000 miles on it and it has a problem starting. The check engine light never comes on, so i can never check for EGR codes or anything. I took the tune off hoping that it was the SCT itself... I got nowhere! When ever it sits over night, it never wants to start on the first turn, sometimes it takes two - four times and other times it starts right away. It has plenty of fuel pressure so I dont think it the lift pump... On the first of October im putting it in the shop to do the EGR delete,ARP head studs and oil cooler/pump upgrade. Do anyone have a clue why it takes so long to start or do you guys think it has to do with the typical 6.0 EGR, oil pump problem? Please help...
6.0 Starting Problem!
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Joined
·
6,293 Posts
I wouldn't be in such a huge rush to put head studs in an engine that doesn't need them yet. Save that cash (and it will be substantial).
Does the truck become difficult to start when the oil gets hot?
Or is this problem only the first start of the day?
The 05 doesn't have a "bad" High pressure oil pump. It does have a bad fitting on that pump, but you would experience other symptoms beyond what you wrote above if that fitting was the issue.
You say it has plenty of fuel pressure. What is the fuel pressure?
Does the truck become difficult to start when the oil gets hot?
Or is this problem only the first start of the day?
The 05 doesn't have a "bad" High pressure oil pump. It does have a bad fitting on that pump, but you would experience other symptoms beyond what you wrote above if that fitting was the issue.
You say it has plenty of fuel pressure. What is the fuel pressure?
It usually happens the first start of the day, but lately its been happening once you let it sit for an hour or two. I can't remember the fuel pressure off the top of my head but I wanna say it was 14-15 pounds. I checked it about two weeks ago. We took it camping about two weeks ago and it sat all weekend, it ran like a charm there but it was funny starting. When it start it had a weird idle, it was rough but the injectors had a harder knock then normal. It drove fine for the first hour or so, then it wouldnt build boost and started clouding out real bad. Note: the SCT was disconnected before we left for the trip. When we got home the check engine light had already shut off and its ran fine ever since, except for the starting issue still. And I'm still going with the studs, I got a really good for them, plus I plan on putting a 2.6 charger on it in the near future...
Joined
·
6,293 Posts
The absolute minimum is 45psi under any condition or your injectors will need to be replaced since anything lower will harm them.
How exactly did you check that?
What REAL gauges do you have on the truck?
Next, you are starting to describe more accurately what the issue is. Somewhere in your high pressure oil system, you have a leak. It could be the dummy plugs/standpipes (replace all as a set). Those are replaced by removing the valve covers. There is also the STC fitting (snap to connect) that is well known for failure. It is much the same style fitting as you see on air lines. The internals wear out and eventually the fitting gives out and you lose all pressure from the HPOP. It can fail at a slow rate, resulting in some weird issues with restarting and starting. All three of those pieces can be replaced for under $200 in parts, if you are going to do the repair yourself. If you are going to pay someone to do these, it will run right around the 12 to 14 hour range (I am guessing).
The reason why the injectors were louder is that the oil is cold and could also be under a lower than desired pressure on the oil side.
Try this little experiment. Park the truck on a steep hill, nose up after reaching normal operating temps. Let it sit for about 1/2 to a full hour. See if it will restart.
Then, try parking on the same hill, nose down and re-doing the test.
Post back the results.
Once you have those heads off, have a qualified machine shop check them for flat/straight and magnaflux them for cracking. They can mill off up to 0.008 to achieve flat. If they must remove more, you will need to buy a new head.
DO NOT use the "black onyx" head gaskets. Cool name but their repeat failure rate is through the roof as compared to stock gaskets. The gaskets were NEVER the issue on the engine. The reason the gaskets blow is due to the style of head bolts used. High cylinder pressures can stretch the TTY style head bolts, resulting in the head gaskets failing. You are getting rid of the weakness by replacing the head bolts with ARP's, don't introduce a new weakness by using the wrong gasket set.
How exactly did you check that?
What REAL gauges do you have on the truck?
Next, you are starting to describe more accurately what the issue is. Somewhere in your high pressure oil system, you have a leak. It could be the dummy plugs/standpipes (replace all as a set). Those are replaced by removing the valve covers. There is also the STC fitting (snap to connect) that is well known for failure. It is much the same style fitting as you see on air lines. The internals wear out and eventually the fitting gives out and you lose all pressure from the HPOP. It can fail at a slow rate, resulting in some weird issues with restarting and starting. All three of those pieces can be replaced for under $200 in parts, if you are going to do the repair yourself. If you are going to pay someone to do these, it will run right around the 12 to 14 hour range (I am guessing).
The reason why the injectors were louder is that the oil is cold and could also be under a lower than desired pressure on the oil side.
Try this little experiment. Park the truck on a steep hill, nose up after reaching normal operating temps. Let it sit for about 1/2 to a full hour. See if it will restart.
Then, try parking on the same hill, nose down and re-doing the test.
Post back the results.
Once you have those heads off, have a qualified machine shop check them for flat/straight and magnaflux them for cracking. They can mill off up to 0.008 to achieve flat. If they must remove more, you will need to buy a new head.
DO NOT use the "black onyx" head gaskets. Cool name but their repeat failure rate is through the roof as compared to stock gaskets. The gaskets were NEVER the issue on the engine. The reason the gaskets blow is due to the style of head bolts used. High cylinder pressures can stretch the TTY style head bolts, resulting in the head gaskets failing. You are getting rid of the weakness by replacing the head bolts with ARP's, don't introduce a new weakness by using the wrong gasket set.
Honestly I checked it with a buddy of mines scanner while the truck was running. It could have read inaccurate or I may have read it wrong. All gauges are stock except for the egt and tranny temp...
What would you say is the best way to check the fuel pressure on these fords? I am not super educated on the Powerstrokes, I had a OBS 7.3 back in the day, but it was mostly stock and i never had an issue. I have a 5.9 Common Rail now that I've been building for the last year... So I'm just learning the 6.0s as I go. I will try the "parking on the hill" trick when I get a chance and I will repost on what it does. In the mean time, thank you!
What would you say is the best way to check the fuel pressure on these fords? I am not super educated on the Powerstrokes, I had a OBS 7.3 back in the day, but it was mostly stock and i never had an issue. I have a 5.9 Common Rail now that I've been building for the last year... So I'm just learning the 6.0s as I go. I will try the "parking on the hill" trick when I get a chance and I will repost on what it does. In the mean time, thank you!
Joined
·
6,293 Posts
There is no stock sensor to read fuel pressure anywhere on the truck. You will need to purchase a separate fuel pressure gauge and the proper sensor for it.
You will need THIS ADAPTER to be able to gain access to the test port on the fuel filter housing on top of the engine. Personally, I do not recommend that particular gauge manufacturer that sells that adapter. I linked to the cheapest part that I found. Isspro is about the best gauge for your ride out there.
You will need THIS ADAPTER to be able to gain access to the test port on the fuel filter housing on top of the engine. Personally, I do not recommend that particular gauge manufacturer that sells that adapter. I linked to the cheapest part that I found. Isspro is about the best gauge for your ride out there.
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!