I bought 7 gallons of peak charge nitrite free elc coolant that was 50/50 diluted cat-etc 1 rated for heavy duty pickups today. Then I went to Kwik Kar to have them pump out the system and change. Very quickly we discover that vacuum draining the system is probably not possible as we only got 8 quarts out lol. So he proceeded to ask if there was a drain on the system. I told him yes in three places; the radiator, the driver side engine block and the passenger side block. So then I proceed to suggest that he follow Hanes maintenance manual for flushing the system and draining. Step was to open all the drains, the radiator easy by hand, than driver side engine block was easy for him to reach so he started to try and do it. So I waited for him to proceed. He did not have the right tool and said nothing about this when all and behold I had the right 5/6 1/4 socket drive hex bit. So trying to get out of ther I proceeded to drain one side while he was gone. When he came back he did not want to drain the passenger side because of the starter solenoid in the way. It was three bolts guys. Cmon, my truck has a literal basement beneath it and drain directly beneath it. Sounds like I should be able to knock this out in less than 15 minutes if someone was handing you the tools. But they all stood inside as it must have been to hot for them…so I removed it. Took me 45 minutes I thought not bad. Then it came to draining it, he didn’t want to do it. Removing the thermostat was too hard for him to with three employees doing nothing for at least 15 mins Average per hour. So instead of proceeding to be there way past when I should have been. I put the plugs back on. Then we began to fill the system from there press vac system thing that we ending up having to tilt over into a flower bed can so that we could get the last 8 quarts out. Gosh that was our magic number. We got I would say 5.7 close to 6, I had 1 full gallon and I mean it over filled a bit. And there was a little bit losses at the beginning when he tried to put more in after draining only 8 quarts. So that was backed back in but it was a lot because I proceed to stop him from mixing my good coolant with another type of coolant and wasting the $140 I spent on coolant today. I would be confident to say we got at least 5.5 gallons in. After running the truck today and working it a bit on the pedal but not WOTing it but giving it some boost to get to operating temps highway driving for about an hour soils. It’s 20 mins on the highway both ways. Some stop light 55 mph for about 10 miles then 45 for almost all the rest. Seems to be that the coolant has been worked through the system as only an hour after letting the system cool down has coolant proceeding to drop a good 3-4 inches below the system. So what I believe I will do is wait for it to stop moving. Don’t drive it and then let pressure be removed through the degas bottle over time. How long should I wait to open up the system. Is it going to rise to the high heat and temperature and vacuum back and in then release into the degas bottle overnight? Filling it with more coolant? I hope someone could shed some light. Am I wrong or right about this process.
6.0 P0404 Engine Code
So here we go, first off I am not sure if all of these events are connected or just problems unrelated but I think they are. I was driving to one of my customers houses and I got P0404 engine code, (also was blowing a bit of black smoke but no a lot) drove to where I need to be and having a cheap scanner I saw it was EGR related so I pulled the valve and the o rings were chewed up. Neither one was gone but the bottom one had a good tear but was still in tact. So I replaced the o rings and felt it seat it and I even used a bit of oil to lube them up. It worked for about 4-5 days and then booms engine code again P0404 (no smoke this time)…so I replaced the valve altogether and reset the code….I didn’t notice much of a change. I don’t think I have drove it long enough for it to read a check engine light heat, about 70 or so miles. But two weeks prior to the o rings being chewed up I was driving a dump trailer loaded down probably weighed about 7-8k total coming down a two lane highway and I was going to cross over to an access road and as I did this boom no trailer lights. So I pulled over and to me the truck was running different than before. I looked under the fuse boxes two days later and sure enough two fuses had blown, 38 and 4. I also notice a sort of chatter upon acceleration that is harder than before. I pulled the air intakes to take a look at the EBP sensor pigtail and one of the pins was black as the other two were copper looking. So I replaced the pigtail and the engine tan great I started to hear that turbo really whistle and felt the power then poof I made one turn into a neighborhood then it started back again…I ordered an new EBP sensor and I will update if that changes anything but I suspect it will run well then it will acclimate to the computer and run rough again just guessing. Too I pulled the VGT solenoid and the connector broke inside the solenoid like the plastic bits so I quickly plugged it bag inside and order a new pigtail. No difference there but i figured that was a good practice to prevent future problems there. Now one thing to highlight is that I keep getting the SH code from my trailer brake controller making me think I still have a shirt somewhere but I looked and looked but can’t find a bad looking wire. Both batteries are good and alternator is good. I just bought the truck about two months ago and it was running great and then the trailer thing happened… which makes me thing it is possible the trailer had a bad ground and fried a bunch of parts in my truck. I replaced the fuel filters that they had in them that weren’t oem with oem ones along with oem oil filters and changed the cap back to the OEM. Too I replaced the CAG boots on Botha ends as they had one small non stock blue tub on one side and what looked like a ford one on the other side but I still replaced both. Please help, I will update what the EBP does. Let me know what y’all think.
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Bro I kwik kar tried to do there pressure test removal of the coolant. Yeah didn’t work at all after about 2 gallons of fluid. I told him to pull the pepcock On the radiator and to pull the block drains. Said he would do the driver side so I did the passenger since you had to remove the starter solenoid. Drained both of those and it went fine. Then he didn’t want to flush it so we skipped this step then added coolant. I think it’s a bad injector.I wouldn't drive it like that, I would drain and refill, but I am a better safe than sorry kind of guy.
Did your injector code come back?I bought 7 gallons of peak charge nitrite free elc coolant that was 50/50 diluted cat-etc 1 rated for heavy duty pickups today. Then I went to Kwik Kar to have them pump out the system and change. Very quickly we discover that vacuum draining the system is probably not possible as we only got 8 quarts out lol. So he proceeded to ask if there was a drain on the system. I told him yes in three places; the radiator, the driver side engine block and the passenger side block. So then I proceed to suggest that he follow Hanes maintenance manual for flushing the system and draining. Step was to open all the drains, the radiator easy by hand, than driver side engine block was easy for him to reach so he started to try and do it. So I waited for him to proceed. He did not have the right tool and said nothing about this when all and behold I had the right 5/6 1/4 socket drive hex bit. So trying to get out of ther I proceeded to drain one side while he was gone. When he came back he did not want to drain the passenger side because of the starter solenoid in the way. It was three bolts guys. Cmon, my truck has a literal basement beneath it and drain directly beneath it. Sounds like I should be able to knock this out in less than 15 minutes if someone was handing you the tools. But they all stood inside as it must have been to hot for them…so I removed it. Took me 45 minutes I thought not bad. Then it came to draining it, he didn’t want to do it. Removing the thermostat was too hard for him to with three employees doing nothing for at least 15 mins Average per hour. So instead of proceeding to be there way past when I should have been. I put the plugs back on. Then we began to fill the system from there press vac system thing that we ending up having to tilt over into a flower bed can so that we could get the last 8 quarts out. Gosh that was our magic number. We got I would say 5.7 close to 6, I had 1 full gallon and I mean it over filled a bit. And there was a little bit losses at the beginning when he tried to put more in after draining only 8 quarts. So that was backed back in but it was a lot because I proceed to stop him from mixing my good coolant with another type of coolant and wasting the $140 I spent on coolant today. I would be confident to say we got at least 5.5 gallons in. After running the truck today and working it a bit on the pedal but not WOTing it but giving it some boost to get to operating temps highway driving for about an hour soils. It’s 20 mins on the highway both ways. Some stop light 55 mph for about 10 miles then 45 for almost all the rest. Seems to be that the coolant has been worked through the system as only an hour after letting the system cool down has coolant proceeding to drop a good 3-4 inches below the system. So what I believe I will do is wait for it to stop moving. Don’t drive it and then let pressure be removed through the degas bottle over time. How long should I wait to open up the system. Is it going to rise to the high heat and temperature and vacuum back and in then release into the degas bottle overnight? Filling it with more coolant? I hope someone could shed some light. Am I wrong or right about this process.
Yes it is still thereDid your injector code come back?
From their web site (misspelling and all)
The benefits of a Kwik Kar Radiator Flush Service:
- Provides the best method of factory recommended cooling system service.
- Protects agains coolent contamination.
- Removes rust and scale deposits that can cause overheating and breakdown.
- Protects against cooling system leaks.
Hopefully they skipped their proprietary "stop leak" product also .............
It will be very interesting to see what the oil temps are after all is said and done.
Also - P0505 is a bad EGR valve (or maybe a code for it being unplugged). It probably needs to be replaced. Can't "clean away" that code.
I pul
I pulled the egr plug to close the valve and observe my exhaust gasses. It runs better but I’m 0retty sure it is a bad injector I’m replacing it Monday
From their web site (misspelling and all)
The benefits of a Kwik Kar Radiator Flush Service:
A standard drain and fill replaces only about half of the contaminated coolant. However, Kwik Kar removes up to 95% of contaminated coolant and replaces it with fresh coolant, plus proprietary product that can help prevent minor leaks, foaming and corrosion.
- Provides the best method of factory recommended cooling system service.
- Protects agains coolent contamination.
- Removes rust and scale deposits that can cause overheating and breakdown.
- Protects against cooling system leaks.
Hopefully they skipped their proprietary "stop leak" product also .............
It will be very interesting to see what the oil temps are after all is said and done.
Also - P0505 is a bad EGR valve. It needs to be replaced, period. Can't "clean away" that code.
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