That's for sure, now days there isn't really an excuse not to have torque pro and Forscan or both. A $35 dongle and you're off to code reading.
6.0 P0404 Engine Code
So here we go, first off I am not sure if all of these events are connected or just problems unrelated but I think they are. I was driving to one of my customers houses and I got P0404 engine code, (also was blowing a bit of black smoke but no a lot) drove to where I need to be and having a cheap scanner I saw it was EGR related so I pulled the valve and the o rings were chewed up. Neither one was gone but the bottom one had a good tear but was still in tact. So I replaced the o rings and felt it seat it and I even used a bit of oil to lube them up. It worked for about 4-5 days and then booms engine code again P0404 (no smoke this time)…so I replaced the valve altogether and reset the code….I didn’t notice much of a change. I don’t think I have drove it long enough for it to read a check engine light heat, about 70 or so miles. But two weeks prior to the o rings being chewed up I was driving a dump trailer loaded down probably weighed about 7-8k total coming down a two lane highway and I was going to cross over to an access road and as I did this boom no trailer lights. So I pulled over and to me the truck was running different than before. I looked under the fuse boxes two days later and sure enough two fuses had blown, 38 and 4. I also notice a sort of chatter upon acceleration that is harder than before. I pulled the air intakes to take a look at the EBP sensor pigtail and one of the pins was black as the other two were copper looking. So I replaced the pigtail and the engine tan great I started to hear that turbo really whistle and felt the power then poof I made one turn into a neighborhood then it started back again…I ordered an new EBP sensor and I will update if that changes anything but I suspect it will run well then it will acclimate to the computer and run rough again just guessing. Too I pulled the VGT solenoid and the connector broke inside the solenoid like the plastic bits so I quickly plugged it bag inside and order a new pigtail. No difference there but i figured that was a good practice to prevent future problems there. Now one thing to highlight is that I keep getting the SH code from my trailer brake controller making me think I still have a shirt somewhere but I looked and looked but can’t find a bad looking wire. Both batteries are good and alternator is good. I just bought the truck about two months ago and it was running great and then the trailer thing happened… which makes me thing it is possible the trailer had a bad ground and fried a bunch of parts in my truck. I replaced the fuel filters that they had in them that weren’t oem with oem ones along with oem oil filters and changed the cap back to the OEM. Too I replaced the CAG boots on Botha ends as they had one small non stock blue tub on one side and what looked like a ford one on the other side but I still replaced both. Please help, I will update what the EBP does. Let me know what y’all think.
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Buy only
Genuine Motorcraft sensors. I cheaped out and bought a generic EBP sensor and it didn't even last two weeks.
Amazon.com: Exhaust Back Pressure EBP Tube Sensor & Wire Replacement for 2003-2004 Ford 6.0L Powerstroke Diesel - Exhaust Back Pressure Tube : Automotive
Buy Exhaust Back Pressure EBP Tube Sensor & Wire Replacement for 2003-2004 Ford 6.0L Powerstroke Diesel - Exhaust Back Pressure Tube: Exhaust Gas - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchaseswww.amazon.com
EBP sensor I bought doesn’t look like the one I have in my truck but it says that it’s for the year of my truck…
That one is the one I bought and when I pulled It looked like this one…
Amazon.com: Alliant Power Exhaust Back Pressure (EBP) Sensor for the 2003-2010 6.0L Power Stroke Engine | Alliant Power # AP63408. : Automotive
Buy Alliant Power Exhaust Back Pressure (EBP) Sensor for the 2003-2010 6.0L Power Stroke Engine | Alliant Power # AP63408.: Exhaust Gas - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchaseswww.amazon.com
if you say you don’t think it’s that I think i will send it back and get the reader you referenced. Should be here over night
You should be able to select them as a PID. but I'm not sure, I haven't used Forscan lite. I have the full version used on a lap top. I would think the lite should monitor them.How do you check for Map and baro? I got the bafx Wi-Fi adapter. I also have Forscan lite on my phone do I need a computer?
Keep an eye to see if the injector code comes back...that could be part of your problem.
That middle baro at 4.5 v looks suspect to me. But I'm not too sure on the 03/04 motors because they are different with the EBP. Mark would know better.
That middle baro at 4.5 v looks suspect to me. But I'm not too sure on the 03/04 motors because they are different with the EBP. Mark would know better.
There are a few common places to look at the harness. Under the air box, the connectors on the driver's wheel wheel isn't common but good to look at. And obviously check your grounds.What about all the other codes? I think I have an electrical problem that has progressively gotten worse. Not sure but I know my truck isn’t running quite like it should. Brakes feel weird, putting my foot on the pedal feels off. All those electrical codes man. Is there a way to pin it to one harness or anywhere I should look??
You can take everything Bill says with a grain of salt....some is good, some not. You will find that many will never allow Ford gold in their truck. Having a vacuum filled coolant system is nice, but not necessary on the 6.0. it does sound like you do have an air lock somewhere though.Man I am just thinking I flushed the coolant wrong.. i went to change my coolant recently and I used ford gold coolant. When I did this everything ran fine, I obviously knew there were some electrical issues but I don’t think major ones. But I drove it for a bout a week and I had been checking my coolant levels frequently by just rocking the Truck a bit and noticing the coolant. I checked it the following week if the change and it went pretty low, like coolant was. Barely above the bottom of the bottle… so I added some coolant. Then it drove okay but still not great. Fast forward about 2 weeks to this morning and my coolant was wayyyy above the max fill line. I mean I was shocked. So I took the mount bolts for the degas bottle off and poured some out the top through one of the top hoses tilting the bottle a bit until it was in the upper fill line cold. Again the Tran tan good for the first half of the day, started shifting better again and had solid acceleration again. Then after the day went buy and I drove about 100-250 miles the coolant level has gone back down under the cold min line while the truck was running. I’ll wait to see where it is at in the morning and I will see where it is at when the truck is warm. Also I will post the video I followed of how to flush the coolant.
one thing to mention, coolant looks and smells fine. I am wondering if I should just go get it pressure pulled and filled by jail kar with there coolant they say is for all vehicles or bringing my own to them. But my fear is that the reason coolant level is fluctuating it is getting stuck somewhere and if the pull the coolant there pressurized system will not pull the coolant where it is stuck from and then we will be mixing two types of coolants. HELLPPP PLEASEE
I would pull your intake off so you can look the loom over in the valley and the harness everywhere you can see. Don't forget to check the grounds and your ficm connections.
Take your time do a good visual inspection and thorough cleaning of all grounds and terminal connections.
Also don't forget about your previous injector code. That could very well be your problem. I have at least one bad injector and it only coded once and never came back.
You would be money ahead by having a contribution test done by a shop or the dealership. After a wire inspection that would be my next stop.
I wouldn't drive it like that, I would drain and refill, but I am a better safe than sorry kind of guy.Am i okay to drive in this condition of allow coolant? I had the air filter of yesterday and I didn’t see anything that jumped at me. I will look again. The coolant I think I will go get changed. Is this right? Or this air bubble won’t hurt my truck? Low coolant? I have been watch ect and eot and when I was in the highway max I saw was 11 spread which I know is high but it didn’t stay for long
Did your injector code come back?I bought 7 gallons of peak charge nitrite free elc coolant that was 50/50 diluted cat-etc 1 rated for heavy duty pickups today. Then I went to Kwik Kar to have them pump out the system and change. Very quickly we discover that vacuum draining the system is probably not possible as we only got 8 quarts out lol. So he proceeded to ask if there was a drain on the system. I told him yes in three places; the radiator, the driver side engine block and the passenger side block. So then I proceed to suggest that he follow Hanes maintenance manual for flushing the system and draining. Step was to open all the drains, the radiator easy by hand, than driver side engine block was easy for him to reach so he started to try and do it. So I waited for him to proceed. He did not have the right tool and said nothing about this when all and behold I had the right 5/6 1/4 socket drive hex bit. So trying to get out of ther I proceeded to drain one side while he was gone. When he came back he did not want to drain the passenger side because of the starter solenoid in the way. It was three bolts guys. Cmon, my truck has a literal basement beneath it and drain directly beneath it. Sounds like I should be able to knock this out in less than 15 minutes if someone was handing you the tools. But they all stood inside as it must have been to hot for them…so I removed it. Took me 45 minutes I thought not bad. Then it came to draining it, he didn’t want to do it. Removing the thermostat was too hard for him to with three employees doing nothing for at least 15 mins Average per hour. So instead of proceeding to be there way past when I should have been. I put the plugs back on. Then we began to fill the system from there press vac system thing that we ending up having to tilt over into a flower bed can so that we could get the last 8 quarts out. Gosh that was our magic number. We got I would say 5.7 close to 6, I had 1 full gallon and I mean it over filled a bit. And there was a little bit losses at the beginning when he tried to put more in after draining only 8 quarts. So that was backed back in but it was a lot because I proceed to stop him from mixing my good coolant with another type of coolant and wasting the $140 I spent on coolant today. I would be confident to say we got at least 5.5 gallons in. After running the truck today and working it a bit on the pedal but not WOTing it but giving it some boost to get to operating temps highway driving for about an hour soils. It’s 20 mins on the highway both ways. Some stop light 55 mph for about 10 miles then 45 for almost all the rest. Seems to be that the coolant has been worked through the system as only an hour after letting the system cool down has coolant proceeding to drop a good 3-4 inches below the system. So what I believe I will do is wait for it to stop moving. Don’t drive it and then let pressure be removed through the degas bottle over time. How long should I wait to open up the system. Is it going to rise to the high heat and temperature and vacuum back and in then release into the degas bottle overnight? Filling it with more coolant? I hope someone could shed some light. Am I wrong or right about this process.
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