What model year?
6.0 P0404 Engine Code
So here we go, first off I am not sure if all of these events are connected or just problems unrelated but I think they are. I was driving to one of my customers houses and I got P0404 engine code, (also was blowing a bit of black smoke but no a lot) drove to where I need to be and having a cheap scanner I saw it was EGR related so I pulled the valve and the o rings were chewed up. Neither one was gone but the bottom one had a good tear but was still in tact. So I replaced the o rings and felt it seat it and I even used a bit of oil to lube them up. It worked for about 4-5 days and then booms engine code again P0404 (no smoke this time)…so I replaced the valve altogether and reset the code….I didn’t notice much of a change. I don’t think I have drove it long enough for it to read a check engine light heat, about 70 or so miles. But two weeks prior to the o rings being chewed up I was driving a dump trailer loaded down probably weighed about 7-8k total coming down a two lane highway and I was going to cross over to an access road and as I did this boom no trailer lights. So I pulled over and to me the truck was running different than before. I looked under the fuse boxes two days later and sure enough two fuses had blown, 38 and 4. I also notice a sort of chatter upon acceleration that is harder than before. I pulled the air intakes to take a look at the EBP sensor pigtail and one of the pins was black as the other two were copper looking. So I replaced the pigtail and the engine tan great I started to hear that turbo really whistle and felt the power then poof I made one turn into a neighborhood then it started back again…I ordered an new EBP sensor and I will update if that changes anything but I suspect it will run well then it will acclimate to the computer and run rough again just guessing. Too I pulled the VGT solenoid and the connector broke inside the solenoid like the plastic bits so I quickly plugged it bag inside and order a new pigtail. No difference there but i figured that was a good practice to prevent future problems there. Now one thing to highlight is that I keep getting the SH code from my trailer brake controller making me think I still have a shirt somewhere but I looked and looked but can’t find a bad looking wire. Both batteries are good and alternator is good. I just bought the truck about two months ago and it was running great and then the trailer thing happened… which makes me thing it is possible the trailer had a bad ground and fried a bunch of parts in my truck. I replaced the fuel filters that they had in them that weren’t oem with oem ones along with oem oil filters and changed the cap back to the OEM. Too I replaced the CAG boots on Botha ends as they had one small non stock blue tub on one side and what looked like a ford one on the other side but I still replaced both. Please help, I will update what the EBP does. Let me know what y’all think.
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2004 F350 4x4 srw 8ft bed crew cab lariat 6.0 power strokeWhat model year?
So, the 2004 could have had the 2003 engine installed. Next question - where is your ICP sensor located?
2004 F350 4x4 srw 8ft bed crew cab lariat 6.0 power strokeWhat model year?
I am guessing next to the turbo behind the ficm and degas bottle I was in there yesterday I guess I can check that out. My ebp sensor came in so I’ll be installing that tonight.So, the 2004 could have had the 2003 engine installed. Next question - where is your ICP sensor located?
If your ICP is behind the turbo, then your model year strategy (03) does not even use the EBP sensor .........
I know I have an ebp sensor…If your ICP is behind the turbo, then your model year strategy (03) does not even use the EBP sensor .........
I just replaced the pigtailI know I have an ebp sensor…
I also know you have one - all 6.0L's have one. I said that your PCM strategy didn't use it.
Ford did a revised strategy for 03 engines called the "Inferred EBP" strategy. I can post the entire document on it if you want to learn about it. Gotta be ready to learn on these forums!
Bottom line you didn't need to spend the money on it. Maybe you can get your money back - unless you just want to say your EBP is new.
Again - that assumes your ICP is behind the turbo.
Ford did a revised strategy for 03 engines called the "Inferred EBP" strategy. I can post the entire document on it if you want to learn about it. Gotta be ready to learn on these forums!
Bottom line you didn't need to spend the money on it. Maybe you can get your money back - unless you just want to say your EBP is new.
Again - that assumes your ICP is behind the turbo.
Where else would it be so I can check if it isn’t that one?
You need a very good code reader to pick up some of the Ford codes. Average scan tools and tuners do not do a very good job.
Fortunately ForScan and ForScan Lite are excellent and are cheap. The full version for a Windows laptop is free (you do NOT need to pay for an extended license) and the Lite version for a smartphone is a $6 download. You do need an adapter - the USB version for the laptop and a WiFi for iOs or BlueTooth for Android. If you are interested, we can help you pick out a good adapter.
The inferred EBP strategy uses the MAF sensor, IAT2, and MAP sensor, and the VGT (turbo actuator) to properly control the turbo.
Since you have a new (and hopefully good) EBP sensor, use your scan tool to find EBP (may not be able to), MAP, and Baro at KOEO (key on - engine off), and post those values.
Fortunately ForScan and ForScan Lite are excellent and are cheap. The full version for a Windows laptop is free (you do NOT need to pay for an extended license) and the Lite version for a smartphone is a $6 download. You do need an adapter - the USB version for the laptop and a WiFi for iOs or BlueTooth for Android. If you are interested, we can help you pick out a good adapter.
The inferred EBP strategy uses the MAF sensor, IAT2, and MAP sensor, and the VGT (turbo actuator) to properly control the turbo.
Since you have a new (and hopefully good) EBP sensor, use your scan tool to find EBP (may not be able to), MAP, and Baro at KOEO (key on - engine off), and post those values.
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You need a very good code reader to pick up some of the Ford codes. Average scan tools and tuners do not do a very good job.
Fortunately ForScan and ForScan Lite are excellent and are cheap. The full version for a Windows laptop is free (you do NOT need to pay for an extended license) and the Lite version for a smartphone is a $6 download. You do need an adapter - the USB version for the laptop and a WiFi for iOs or BlueTooth for Android. If you are interested, we can help you pick out a good adapter.
The inferred EBP strategy uses the MAF sensor, IAT2, and MAP sensor, and the VGT (turbo actuator) to properly control the turbo.
Since you have a new (and hopefully good) EBP sensor, use your scan tool to find EBP (may not be able to), MAP, and Baro at KOEO (key on - engine off), and post those values.
I forgot to mention my catalytic converter has a crack in it. I’m not sure if this has an effect on any of this. When I get home I will read more in Seth. I don’t think my scammer can read that. It was $15You need a very good code reader to pick up some of the Ford codes. Average scan tools and tuners do not do a very good job.
Fortunately ForScan and ForScan Lite are excellent and are cheap. The full version for a Windows laptop is free (you do NOT need to pay for an extended license) and the Lite version for a smartphone is a $6 download. You do need an adapter - the USB version for the laptop and a WiFi for iOs or BlueTooth for Android. If you are interested, we can help you pick out a good adapter.
The inferred EBP strategy uses the MAF sensor, IAT2, and MAP sensor, and the VGT (turbo actuator) to properly control the turbo.
Since you have a new (and hopefully good) EBP sensor, use your scan tool to find EBP (may not be able to), MAP, and Baro at KOEO (key on - engine off), and post those values.
I am on pretty much all of the 6.0L forums and I think you will find that most people that are willing to help will now expect you to get ForScan or Torque Pro (unless you already have a more expensive and capable tool). It gets too expensive to guess and most people don't like suggesting things that are not fairly certain to help.
That's for sure, now days there isn't really an excuse not to have torque pro and Forscan or both. A $35 dongle and you're off to code reading.I am on pretty much all of the 6.0L forums and I think you will find that most people that are willing to help will now expect you to get ForScan or Torque Pro (unless you already have a more expensive and capable tool). It gets too expensive to guess and most people don't like suggesting things that are not fairly certain to help.
Okay I will look for one tomorrowI am on pretty much all of the 6.0L forums and I think you will find that most people that are willing to help will now expect you to get ForScan or Torque Pro (unless you already have a more expensive and capable tool). It gets too expensive to guess and most people don't like suggesting things that are not fairly certain to help.
I have the Hyper tough scanner will it do what you are asking? I can read engine codesI am on pretty much all of the 6.0L forums and I think you will find that most people that are willing to help will now expect you to get ForScan or Torque Pro (unless you already have a more expensive and capable tool). It gets too expensive to guess and most people don't like suggesting things that are not fairly certain to help.
What I am saying is that it may not read all the codes.I have the Hyper tough scanner will it do what you are asking? I can read engine codes
I certainly am not familiar with all the options that exist today, but time-and-time again ForScan has proven to be more thorough than all but the Ford IDS system and several other high end systems.
What I read about the Autel HT is consistent with most cheap scan tools - it is not a thorough code OR PID reader.
So Forscan, what do I buy, where do I buy?What I am saying is that it may not read all the codes.
I certainly am not familiar with all the options that exist today, but time-and-time again ForScan has proven to be more thorough than all but the Ford IDS system and several other high end systems.
What I read about the Autel HT is consistent with most cheap scan tools - it is not a thorough code OR PID reader.
I found the website with the lite and free version you were talking about. So do I get the lite free version or do I need the trial to read those other ones. Also for the scanner to usb can I use any available at a auto store? Would I be able to read everything from my phone if I got the IOS version?So Forscan, what do I buy, where do I buy?
I mentioned a windows laptop and a smartphone, which do you want it on?
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