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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello all. Is this the oem filter cap for this engine? I’m having a No start condition and I am down to looking at the needle on the instrument cluster not moving.

Thanks.
 

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no .
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Good video. Thanks. So I’m going to check the reservoir tomorrow while cranking. If all is well with oil coming up then I’m safe. If not, well, what is the worst case scenario? I’m already seeing the oil pumps are about 500. But can more damage have been caused? It has been long crank starting for a week now when cold, still cranks quick when warm.
 

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Good video. Thanks. So I’m going to check the reservoir tomorrow while cranking. If all is well with oil coming up then I’m safe. If not, well, what is the worst case scenario? I’m already seeing the oil pumps are about 500. But can more damage have been caused? It has been long crank starting for a week now when cold, still cranks quick when warm.
Could be your issue - might not though. Only way to find out is to change it out ASAP. Did this happen to start after an oil change? Does your engine have an even crank and not speeding up or slowing down on a certain cylinder?

-jokester
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Oil was changed about 2000 miles ago. It seems to have en even crank.


Starting psi is 1500 on the high side. Ficm is 47.5-49. Ether will not start the engine. Injectors buzz. It just so happened to occur when I Messed around with changing a tune. It Didn’t start. Returned it to stock. Still no start. Was going to call sct but being that it showed some signs before the tune change, I’m thinking it’s something else. I Disconnected batteries for a while with headlights on. The only consistent code I get is the cam sensor code. I was guessing it only had to do with the long crank time.
 

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IMO, it is not good for the HPOP to starve it for flow, let alone starve the lubrication system (and both can happen when your oil drains out of the filter straight back into the oil pan). As stated above, change that ASAP
 

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IMO, it is not good for the HPOP to starve it for flow, let alone starve the lubrication system (and both can happen when your oil drains out of the filter straight back into the oil pan). As stated above, change that ASAP


going to test things out this morning and see. fingers crossed.:please:
 

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There is where a gauge on the low pressure system, may have alerted to a problem before any damage was done

The factory "gauge" just is not enough (5-7psi) -- half or none - glorified warning light
 

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Discussion Starter #14
This morning I went outside and pulled the cap off of the oil filter. What I found is in the attached picture. The top of the oil filter bypass valve was laying on the floor of the oil filter housing. After inspecting it and putting it back, I put a one inch spacer on top of the oil filter and then screwed the WIX cap back on(disgusted with myself for not noticing and reacting to it sooner). I cranked the engine for a few seconds and inspected the filter. (no start) It was now soaked. Check. New OEM filter cap is on the way.

I cranked and cranked and cranked some more. I killed my battery and put my charger on it. Meanwhile, I emailed sct and let them know what was happening. They sent me a recovery file. SCT'S response time was amazing! An hour and a half from inital email to recovery file being flashed. I cranked and cranked and cranked some more, nothing. I just kept killing my batteries. RPMS were at 125-150. I charged by batteries for about a half hour each on a 40 amp charge. I also let the truck sit and hooked up it up to my power outlet for the engine block heater. (hail Mary). I disconnected the battery charger at this point.

Two hours later I came back to 90 degree coolant temp and 12.5 amps on the battery. I cranked the truck and it turned over far quicker than it had been. It cranked the way it usually does. Didn't get an RPM count but it was definitely much quicker than the 125-150. I cranked it a few seconds and bam it starts! O boy was I relieved.

I brought it up to operating temperature. The batteries then maintained about 13.6-8 volts. I then installed the new tune(Warren diesel street VGT open). I started and shut it down at least a half dozen times, about a half an hour in between every time. The last time I waited a bit more and the coolant temp was down to 130. She Started right up every time. I drove it about 10 hard miles after that. All good.


At this point I'll be looking to start it at 4 am tomorrow. If it starts, I'll be driving it for about 120 miles.

I have no error codes on the scanner, I'm still not 100% convinced. Not even 75% convinced. Tomorrow morning wont be a complete cold soak because it will have been off for only about 10 hours.

We will see.

The biggest difference besides getting the recovery tune was letting the batteries recover, and the heating of the block. Not sure which one actually helped contribute. It was about 35 degrees today. Engine block heat is not necessary. 8 new glow plugs, wires and control module were installed in Feb 2019. I guess I'll find out what is up soon.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance for reading my story!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Last update hopefully, started right up this morning. Coolant and oil temps were still at about 50 with ambient temp being about 38. Took it for a nice long ride. My diesel mistress is back! It’s supposed to go down to 17 tonight so the morning will be a true test. I usually don’t plug in unless it’s 10 or below. Maybe I’ll change that this year.


Thank you all for your help.
 

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If i'm reading it right, you found the bypass valve from the top of the oil filter pipe in the bottom of the housing? If so, replace that filter pipe when you do the cap. With it broken, oil can bypass the filter - which is a big no bueno.

-jokester
 
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Discussion Starter #17
If i'm reading it right, you found the bypass valve from the top of the oil filter pipe in the bottom of the housing? If so, replace that filter pipe when you do the cap. With it broken, oil can bypass the filter - which is a big no bueno.

-jokester
I actually found the top of the anti drain back valve on the bottom of the housing. I was able to pop it back on and it springs and seats normally.



Truck was again a no start this morning. Picking up new filter and cap today.

Question. If I’m able to start the truck with starting fluid how is it able to maintain pressure on the low pressure side by itself? Is it because I’m essentially priming it by forcing the combustion?

FYI IPR duty cycle is .44 while starting.
 

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In one post you say the "oil filter bypass" was lying at the bottom of the oil filter housing and in another you say it was the "anti drain back valve".

Which was it?

The oil filter bypass is in the filter housing standpipe. The "drain valve" is the one that snaps into the floor of the oil filter housing and is closed when the oil filter is installed and pushes down on the drain valve stem.

IMO this oil system is too critical to keep trying to start it w/ the wrong cap/filter combination - even with a make-shift spacer. IMO you are seriously risking a bypass of your oil filter as mentioned by jokester00.

btw - lots of people erroneously call the "drain valve" the "anti drain back valve".

The anti drain back valve is what retains oil in the system when the engine is shut off (it is a check valve). It is also at the bottom of the oil filter housing, but it is part of the piece that also houses the oil cooler bypass.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
In one post you say the "oil filter bypass" was lying at the bottom of the oil filter housing and in another you say it was the "anti drain back valve".

Which was it?

The oil filter bypass is in the filter housing standpipe. The "drain valve" is the one that snaps into the floor of the oil filter housing and is closed when the oil filter is installed and pushes down on the drain valve stem.

IMO this oil system is too critical to keep trying to start it w/ the wrong cap/filter combination - even with a make-shift spacer. IMO you are seriously risking a bypass of your oil filter as mentioned by jokester00.

btw - lots of people erroneously call the "drain valve" the "anti drain back valve".

The anti drain back valve is what retains oil in the system when the engine is shut off (it is a check valve). It is also at the bottom of the oil filter housing, but it is part of the piece that also houses the oil cooler bypass.

Sorry for using incorrect terminology. The piece that came up is the spring loaded button that clips into another spring loaded button that is on the upper right corner of the base of the oil filter housing. That’s the drain valve?
 

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It is labeled in the attachment that I posted. The valve that snaps into the base of the oil filter is the drain valve.

To be honest, at this point I would be more concerned about your filter bypass valve (in the standpipe) being bypassed. It has to be properly engaged also.
 
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