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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,
I have a 2005 F-350 King ranch 6.0, Just replaced the head gaskets, drove around and it ran better then ever for about a week then out of nowhere the truck just shut off and will not start, Right after it died it fired up twice each time for only a second or two but only while I put the accelerator all the way to the floor, and it did the same thing one more time a few days later, I have changed the cam sensor the crank sensor, icp, ipr, ebp, stc fitting, new stand pipes and dummy plugs, I even changed the wiring harness, as far as tests go I have tested the Ficm both with scanner and manually and get 48.9 volts, I have plenty of fuel pressure, I have done the air leak test and have no leaks in the oil system, here is where it gets weird, while cranking I get around 200-300 psi to my icp and my ipr value does not change from the default 14.7% so I shut the ipr manually and get 4000 psi to my icp but still no fire, I also don't seem to be getting cam/crank sync or Ficm Sync, the values are Zero but I am using the torque app and had to add the parameters in and copied someone else's settings so I am not 100% on that. Does anyone have any ideas?
 

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You wont get any injection(or IPR action) until there is sync

What are the codes? clear out the old codes, and look for fresh ones

Does Torque show RPM when cranking the engine? -- if so, then the crank sensor is reading

Have you checked the 5 volt vRef? -- easy to check at the exhaust back pressure sensor -- can leave it disconnected until you get the engine running

RE-check the FICM plugs, pretty easy to have one not pushed all the way in -- rearmost one has the communication wires in it
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No RPM while cranking, do I test the vRef voltage while cranking or no? I will need to get help on that one, all ficm connections are good, is it possible to have gotten a bad crank sensor?
 

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No RPM while cranking, do I test the vRef voltage while cranking or no? I will need to get help on that one, all ficm connections are good, is it possible to have gotten a bad crank sensor?
Should have RPM in torque when cranking
it is possible that the crank sensor is bad, but I doubt it, they are a simple device(you can measure the ohms)
tip clearance is most important to that sensor -- there are various ways to measure -- looking for about .005"

vRef can be tested with the engine off, key on -- should be 5.0 volts
can be tested in a few places, EGT, VGT, MAP, MAF, EBP, Fan -- pick one that is easy to get to, they share the same voltage
you can disconnect the sensors one at a time to see which one is bad -- Fan harness can be a problem too

A cheap volt meter is all that is needed -- everyone should own one anyway, and know at least the basics -- IMHO
o'course you could get all fancy and go for a Fluke Scopemeter, but I may be prejudiced ...lol
 

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Discussion Starter #7
vRef was 5.08 volts, is there a way to test cam and crank signal with a volt meter, I'm afraid my pcm might not be reading it so would like to find a way to test if i have signal through the wires.
 

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You would need a meter with a frequency scale to read those -- or a scopemeter

Torque should show RPM while cranking, if the crank sensor is working -- be sure the little green dot is blinking on the Torque readout

the cam sensor is harder to test

You still have not said anything about codes? there are none?
the computer system is pretty good at indicating where a failure is
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The green dot is there, still no rpm while cranking, I knew I was forgetting to answer something! I don't have any codes, I can crank it over a few more times when I get home and check again, I do get the cam and crank sensor codes when cranking it for a long period of time but from what I have read that is normal, I will have to do it again to get the exact number Codes.
 

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PCM connector J1-C2: engine harness

Crank position sensor terminal 30 and 41
Cam position sensor terminal 31 and 43

at the PCM engine harness connector -- you could check for ohm reading across these terminals -- should be the same as at the sensor
be careful with jamming test leads or anything else into those terminals, don't want to damage them and make them loose on the pins
test the old sensors, should read the same, if they are good

you should not crank for more than about 10 seconds at a time anyways -- if it didn't fire by then , it isn't gonna
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I did the resistance test on both cam sensor and crank sensor, cam sensor has resistance crank sensor does not, here the weird part, crank sensors produce a small amount of voltage when metal passes by, while cranking I am geting a small amount of voltage, but by not having resistance I am guessing I have a short or bad wire/connection, what do you think?
 
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