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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey guys so i finally got my truck running right or so i thought parked it at 5pm friday and just tried to drive it home from a buddys house. today sunday i had to do a few things before going home drove it maybe 4 miles after lettin it warm up for 10 minutes it stalled so i pulled over and cranked it for a bit and it fired up but ran ruff i made it another 2 mile with it barely running i got maybe 25 mph outta her then it died again so i walked home got my other truck and the wifes brother and drove to tow it home well i brought a socked and a rachet with me and pulled the secondary fuel filter to see if it was fuel or electrical as to why it wouldnt run and the fuel bowl was empty truck has 3/4 tank of fuel in it so i had him cycle the key and the fuel bowl filled right up so i tighted it up and him turn the key off i heard a hissing sound so i think maybe something is cracked well the truck fired up and i drove it another 3 miles home anyone with any knowledge of why this would happen i think maybe the secondary cap needs replacing or the fuel pump is taken a crap?
 

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That fuel system on the truck is all under pressure from the fuel pump up to the motor. It sounds to me like you are getting combustion gasses in your fuel. You need to remove the secondary fuel filter and fill the housing with clean fuel and then unplug the fuel pump. Then have a friend crank the truck while you watch for bubbles in the fuel bowl. If you get bubbles then you need to isolate which bank it is. This is done by what is called a balloon test. If you did not get bubbles in the last step the balloon test is not necessary. To perform the balloon test simply remove the fuel lines at the fuel filter that run from the fuel filter down to the cylinder head. Then slip a rubber glove or a balloon over then end of the line and zip tie it to secure it. Then crank it over and see if you get pulses in the glove. The one that gets the pulses is the culprit bank. Then you just simply have to remove all 4 glow plugs and install one glow plug back into one cylinder at a time and crank it to see if the glove pulses. The cylinders that pulse are the ones that need to have the injectors removed and inspected for burned o-rings and copper washer. If the copper washer is intact and unburned then you need an injector. If the copper washer is burned off then you need a injector o-ring kit and a new injector hold down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
well i checked the bubbles with the pump unplugged and raw fuel put in the fuel bowl and i didnt get any bubbles at all the truck will run now but wont rev over 2500 rpm and dont like to stay running once in gear but it will sit and idel all day long sometimes really smooth sometimes kinda ruff i tried to connect it to a scan tool and it said no communication i checked all the fuses they all check out good so i guess im gonna bite a bullet ive never bite with any car or truck ive ever owned and take it to the dealership this week
 

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Okay. If you want a scanner that everyone on here raves about there is a product called Autoenginuity. Autoenginuity If you order the software and aren't afraid to get down and dirty then I can help you diagnose your truck over the internet. I've done it before for other members on here. My guess is that your scan tool is not CAN network compliant which is what is needed for the 6.0.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks man i have a snap on scanner now but i will get a autoenginiuty or maybe trade my older scanner in on a motus but i own all ford products anyhow. will the motus do the job or should i go with the ae i work on all kinds of gas engines so i know i can do the work myself im not afraid of it id like to think of myself as gifted with a wrench i just am not to smart on these old 6.0 but ive never owned a truck that has road so good and had so much power ill do whatever it takes to fix it haha
 

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I don't know much about the Snap-on scanners. We have the Ford IDS at work so I haven't used a Snap-on scanner since tech school. I can ask my Snap-on dealer about it, but he may or may not know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
we and the wife just talked bout the ae scanner and probably will just order one she has a 2000 mustang with a supercharged 4.6 and she likes to work on it herself and figures she could use the ae software i appreciate all the help and thanks for standing behind the troops we are a military family are selves i dont serve myself but my wife is active duty air force im just lucky she got stationed at her home base in battle creek
 

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My 19 yo brother is in the Marines. He is stationed in Yuma Arizona working as a helicopter mechanic. I also have a cousin in the marines who is stationed on an aircraft carrier. I don't remember which one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i scanned the truck again and came up with iat out of range and p1703 brake pressure switch out of self test range and egr codes then i had a cmp sensor communication code dont remember the numbers i replaced the cam sensor it ran great for about 20 minutes now it will run just has no power again everything else looked good past buzz test on all injectors i need to do a contribution test still but im back to scratchin my head
 

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you also need to correct the egr codes and the iat codes as well.
 

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What's your iat read cold key on engine off? What is your egr valve position voltage when the truck runs like crap? The cam sensor code is due to the rough running, you may also get a crank sensor code for the same reason.
 

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You may also be getting combustion gas into the fuel rail from damaged o-ring/ seals on a injector. One of the hold down bolts may have streached and is allowing a injector to rise up off the seat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
well even with the fiting i had on the fuel pressure tester leakin right at the fiting cause its not the same as a international one it was at 46 but it was sprayin fuel so i have to go get the right one from someplace and the iat temp said it was 45 degrees on the scanner and it was really close to that outside within 2 degrees either way i had the egr unplugged cause i read on here that if u unplugged it stone cold that it would be ok that way i couldnt get it out of the intake now i have had it out and cleaned it and put it back in
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
also the fuel pump runs forever when u turn the key on if u cycle the key a few times it was start run really smooth no smoke nothing then after maybe 5 mins right back to runnin like ****
 

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the fuel pump is on a timer, it runs for 30 seconds when you turn the key on. it has no way to tell how much pressure it's built. you need to get a fuel pressure reading when it is acting up to be accurate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
thanks for the insight on the timer on the fuel pump i looked on here to see if it had something like that. does the dealership sell a connector so u can check fuel pressure ?
 

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You can purchase it off the internet, or you can check with your dealer. The dealer cost is a little cheaper than I can find it on the internet for, but I'm not sure if the dealers are going to add mark-up to it. The part number is OTC 303-765. You will also need an oil pressure gauge that reads from 0 to 100 psi. Or you can go to a local hydraulic shop and see if they can adapt something if you take your plug in there. I believe it's 12mm straight thread with an o-ring.
 

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6.0 fuel problems

nick49001, I read where you had the same problems I'm having with my 6.0 but never saw how you fixed it. Can you help me out. I have replaced almost everything and it still wont run but about 5 to 10 minutes before it goes dead.
 
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