Pulled the turbo an checked y pipe which is fine. The issue was my connection to the y pipe. Black soot told the story well.
I tore the turbo down into pieces so I could go through the entire thing checking everything I can But didn’t find anything wrong. It’s 97 today an the shop fans only do so much so I plan on putting it back together this evening but want get it back on the truck till Friday morning when I’m off again.
I did however take my backpack blower an blow Down the exhaust pipe making sure it was clear which it was so that’s out.
I went over all the wiring an rub points checking everything an only found one place on the coolant temp sensor that was in question so I taped it up well.
Guess Friday’s the day to decide if I take the truck to the shop.
BTW, this is the ECU question that the Torquepro asks me at startup. I forgot to put it up here for you guys to see. I click the 7E5 one because it has more PID's in it. Anyone every seen this before? Excuse the shiny head lol
Well guys I have the turbo back on the truck an it’s not leaking any exhaust at the turbo anymore but it still idles like a new truck but step on the fuel an black smoke rolls outta the tail pipe. No power till u get going good an she’ll tear out but let off an slow down to turn an back to black smoke an no power again.
I appreciate all you guys help but after I’ve went through everything, I’m taking my truck to the ford dealer Monday early an see if they can fix it by Friday when I’m suppose to leave for Michigan. I hate to do that but I’m very frustrated with it. The only thing I wish I could watch is the injector contributions but my scanner doesn’t offer that I don’t guess. None of them are misfiring according to it tho.
wish some of you guys were close to me so I could pay u to tell me what the heck’s wrong with this thing.
Bismic: I tried unplugging the Ebp once an it didn’t make a difference with the way it was running. Also the fuse was #8 called shunt without a amp rating. I don’t think it feeds anything an may have been stuck there after it blew somewhere else. It was a 20 so that’s what I put back in it’s place. Also all the sensors that were replaced are aftermarket amazon purchases except for a parts house MAP sensor and a Motorcraft EBP sensor.
Hydro: I’m unsure what’s making the boost bounce around like it does. I do k ow that once you get it going the boost does the pressure relief popping like it’s over boosting It did throw a code today 299 underboost while I was playing with it.
In my field of work, I deal with electronics everyday an have seen them warm up an open a broken board solder joint so I keep thinking that it runs pretty good cold an then the pcm heats up an I’m losing my processor chip function which is screwing with my fuel an boost delivery math but thats a super long shot. To bad it’s not AB logic or I’d be good
Also the MAP gauge is stopping at 18.49 psi? is that the upper limit of your readout gauge? -- may want increase the gauge to 60 psi max
I would connect a regulated air hose to the MAP sensor line and see if the monitor gauge and the reading on the trucks follows the regulated air
I questioned earlier what software you are using to monitor, thought you said Torque Pro, but your start screen is totally different than mine
Well bismic you got me thinking so after spending a few hours this morning going over everything again I decided to unhook the EBP sensor an see what happens. Truck started running like it was new again. I have since that time put over a hundred miles on it an I hooked my equipment trailer up an loaded a tractor on it for good measure an made a 40 mile round trip with zero issues.
The EBP sensor is a aftermarket amazon purchase which was doa outta the box. I’ll be ordering a new motorcraft EBP sensor to replace the bad one. I loaded a video of my truck running well so someone can see the differences an may be able to figure there issue out.
I’d like to personally thank you all for spending your time helping me figure my truck out.
Hydro I’ve got $32+ a hr for ya in westpoint Mississippi if you know logic decent which if you know those terms I’m figuring you do.
I have seen it a number of times (aftermarket sensors causing issues). I don't try to twist peoples arms as much anymore about it. People have their own thoughts on things and sometimes it is hard to convince them on something as unpredictable as the quality of aftermarket sensors and actuators (some work ok, and some just don't).
Yes and no.....when you NULL the sensor, the programming defaults to an inferred EBP table and plays the guessing game on how to move the turbo. It'll work, but not be at best performance, and can mask other problems in the future.
Just thought I'd update everyone, I did install the new motorcraft sensor which worked great for about 12 miles till I hit a rough patch in the highway then back to the original issues. I have it narrowed down to a internal wiring issue so I'll be replacing those conductors when the temperature cools off some since the weather says it feels like 109 here today.
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