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9K views 43 replies 8 participants last post by  BrentonSmith95 
#11 · (Edited)
I have a 2006 f250 6.0 power stroke. Tons of work done to it. New hpop,new oil cooler,new icp, ipr, rebuilt turbo, new alternator, new batteries, new starter, new dummy pl and standpipes, rebuilt injectors.
The truck will start and run fine all day as long as you don't shut it off. Once you shut it off it won't build over 360 psi oil pressure. And oil pressure gauge on dash doesn't register when hot. I am completely stumped. The truck has been sitting for over A year it didn't run at all, through trial and tribulation I have gotten this far. The truck is in driving condition. If I can just beat this hot no start.
The only codes I'm getting is (air intake temp)
And (icp to low)
 
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#1 ·
Welcome! Sorry to hear about your issues. If you were to remake this thread and post it in one of the 6.0 discussion areas you would probably get more responses, but from my limited knowledge it sounds like you have a high pressure oil leak which would result in a hot no start. A quick forum search would yield you many readings on how to diagnose and fix this issue. Good luck!

This thread may be a good place to start:
No start issue? Look here.
 
#3 ·
I have. A 2006 6.0 F-250 truck started running rough one day and would stall until I let it cool. I've replaced the Altternator the batteries. The icp sensor the ipr sensor I've rebuilt the turbo. I've rebuilt the ficm new oil and fuel filters replaced stand pipes dummy plugs nipple cups and o rings rebuilt the injectors. New hpop new oil cooler. Egr delete. After the truck sat for over a year. Now truck will crank when cold and run fine. I have a constant battery light and abs light. But when I shut it of it will NOT crank back until about 24 hrs later. I have a scanner with tourqe pro app. I have ficm sync I have 49. V to ficm I'm building about 270psi icp after hot. .2 v on icp well over 600 rpm I've spent thousands of dollars on this truck I can not figure out what Is going on. At a lose for words with this truck I've read almost every forum there is to read ive seen all the videos you can think of. I have tried and tried with this truck. I need some sort of insight. What am I not seeing here ?


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#5 ·
You’ll get smarter people than I here in the 6.0 area of the forum. I would read through that no start thread I linked in your other post and see if anything sticks out to you to try. If I remember correctly 270psi is not enough to start the truck, I think you need 500+psi. Any chance you have debris that is either blocking or tore through the screen under the IPR? Have you tried pressure testing with air for oil leaks in the high pressure system?
 
#6 ·
I have. A 2006 6.0 F-250 truck started running rough one day and would stall until I let it cool. I've replaced the Altternator the batteries. The icp sensor the ipr sensor I've rebuilt the turbo. I've rebuilt the ficm new oil and fuel filters replaced stand pipes dummy plugs nipple cups and o rings rebuilt the injectors. New hpop new oil cooler. Egr delete. After the truck sat for over a year. Now truck will crank when cold and run fine. I have a constant battery light and abs light. But when I shut it of it will NOT crank back until about 24 hrs later. I have a scanner with tourqe pro app. I have ficm sync I have 49. V to ficm I'm building about 270psi icp after hot. .2 v on icp well over 600 rpm I've spent thousands of dollars on this truck I can not figure out what Is going on. At a lose for words with this truck I've read almost every forum there is to read ive seen all the videos you can think of. I have tried and tried with this truck. I need some sort of insight. What am I not seeing here ?


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0.2v ICP looks like HP oil leak - have you done SCT fitting/stand pipes/dummy plugs? Over 600 rpm ICP should be way higher than 0.2 - 0.7v+

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#7 ·
Brand new hpop. Updated the fitting on the old pump first couldn't build over 1600 psi wot so I replaced the whole pump. Icp v is reading .2 v meaning I'm getting true data I've replaced the entire hpop system if you read top thread youll see work that has already been done. Thanks again

When crunk I'm at .8 v icp. Everything looks fine until I shut the truck off. Holding 800 psi at idle.
 
#9 ·
When crunk I'm at .8 v icp. Everything looks fine until I shut the truck off. Holding 800 psi at idle.
You can't say everything is fine at idle without posting the IPR % duty cycle the PCM is commanding to maintain that .8v ICP. I am sure it is a high number - at least when hot.

Check the IPR valve (as suggested a few times above) and prepare to do an air test. Something that was installed earlier has failed and causing a leak when the oil is hot.

Hopefully you used OEM parts.
 
#10 ·
By chance an Alliant Hpop? Had a few issues the last few years with them. Typical ipr % at idle warm is 23-28% any higher than that most likely has a leak. Did you grease the dummy and stands before you put them in? Most of the high pressure leaks we see are injector orings or dummy/stand. I always replace them anytime rails are off.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Can you answer some of the questions asked a few months ago?


Specifically from 3 months ago:
Check the IPR valve (as suggested a few times above) and prepare to do an air test. Something that was installed earlier has failed and causing a leak when the oil is hot.
Post a picture of the top of the engine and make sure the oil filter cap is in it.
 
#14 ·
What EGR delete do you have?

Have you checked to see how long it takes to fill the oil filter housing when cranking (try doing it with the drain valve left open and then again with it closed).

Crank with the starter solenoid wire jumpered to the passenger battery (+) terminal or with the FICM relay removed. Let us know how long it takes (in seconds) to fill the oil filter housing in both scenarios.

Also -
What HPOP was installed?
Did you use OEM parts for the IPR and ICP?
Did you rebuild the injectors yourself? If you did it, what parts did you use?
Have you done an air test?
Did you re-check the IPR as suggested a while back?
Did you grease the dummy and stands before you put them in?
 
#16 ·
I added a few questions above in an edit. Please be specific and detailed.

Also, you said you installed new standpipes and dummy plugs, but were they OEM?
 
#17 ·
Idk about the delete it was that way when I bought it. Has a j tube going into the oil cooler. Used a bostech hpop which I actually don't know if it's OEM or not. Ipr and icp came from auto parts store I also don't know if it's OEM it def cost enough.lol I did do the injectors myself I'll check the timing on oil and get back to you in A min

I believe the dummy and stands were OEM yes they are updated ones

12.86 seconds open and 7.84 seconds closed. Yes I have rechecked the ipr it's good. I did oil the parts before I put them in. I haven't done an air test I don't have the tools or compressor to check it
 
#18 · (Edited)
I hope aftermarket parts are not causing the problems, but ICP and IPR from auto parts stores do not have a great reputation.

Additionally, the Bostech HPOP is not OEM and not OEM quality either. There is a fairly recent thread about a Bostech HPOP (late model one at that) being bad out of the box.

The oil filter housing fill times are a bit slow, but aren't too bad, so for now I would have to say your issue is in the high pressure oil system.

An air test would be needed IMO.

Have you tried starting with the ICP unplugged (ie a hot start attempt)?
 
#19 ·
God I surely hope not. The truck would barley crank before the oil pump and go half a mile if that and die. Now it starts right up cold and will run all-day until you shut it off so I hope that isn't the case either. And yes I tried that earlier today I've been trying to run it up and down the road daily for the past week once a day I read that they don't like to sit unused and performance wise it is getting better everyday running better and smoother each time. Just once a day is all you get out of it. But yes I did I tried that earlier before I posted this just out of curiosity and still no start. I agree with the air test I just don't know anyone that has the tools and frankly just don't have the extra money right now to be buying anything else. I may have to ask a fella up the street I see he has a couple tore down in his yard he may have the tools to air test it.

Just boggles me how it cranks and runs so good until you shut it down. And on top of that the pressure on the dash reads when cold. once it's hot the needle won't raise when cranking.
 
#21 ·
If you get on these forums before spending all that money, the advice will be a RESOUNDING - "Do not buy aftermarket parts - especially for sensors and actuators and things that require quality seals and o-rings".
 
#23 ·
Oh I did trust me. I've read just about every forum I can find on hot no start I've seen a ton of diesel tech rons videos I didn't know a thing about. Diesels when I bought this truck forums and videos have got me where I'm at. The truck temp will be at like 197 and the eot will be at about 94 95 ish
 
#24 ·
Oh I did trust me. I've read just about every forum I can find on hot no start I've seen a ton of diesel tech rons videos I didn't know a thing about. Diesels when I bought this truck forums and videos have got me where I'm at. The truck temp will be at like 197 and the eot will be at about 94 95 ish

The oil temperature you posted is not correct. It has to be higher than the coolant - unless you have a air-to-oil oil cooler, and even then it would be too low.
 
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