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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a 2006 f250 6.0 power stroke. Tons of work done to it. New hpop,new oil cooler,new icp, ipr, rebuilt turbo, new alternator, new batteries, new starter, new dummy pl and standpipes, rebuilt injectors.
The truck will start and run fine all day as long as you don't shut it off. Once you shut it off it won't build over 360 psi oil pressure. And oil pressure gauge on dash doesn't register when hot. I am completely stumped. The truck has been sitting for over A year it didn't run at all, through trial and tribulation I have gotten this far. The truck is in driving condition. If I can just beat this hot no start.
The only codes I'm getting is (air intake temp)
And (icp to low)
 

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Can you answer some of the questions asked a few months ago?


Specifically from 3 months ago:
Check the IPR valve (as suggested a few times above) and prepare to do an air test. Something that was installed earlier has failed and causing a leak when the oil is hot.
Post a picture of the top of the engine and make sure the oil filter cap is in it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hell I lost that post lol couldn't figure out how to get back to it. I will do my best to answer the questions though. Picture coming up
 

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What EGR delete do you have?

Have you checked to see how long it takes to fill the oil filter housing when cranking (try doing it with the drain valve left open and then again with it closed).

Crank with the starter solenoid wire jumpered to the passenger battery (+) terminal or with the FICM relay removed. Let us know how long it takes (in seconds) to fill the oil filter housing in both scenarios.

Also -
What HPOP was installed?
Did you use OEM parts for the IPR and ICP?
Did you rebuild the injectors yourself? If you did it, what parts did you use?
Have you done an air test?
Did you re-check the IPR as suggested a while back?
Did you grease the dummy and stands before you put them in?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It's got a new ipr valve and I put a new wiring harness on it. The old screen was punctured.
I changed the injector o rings and I put new dummy and stand pipes. I did oil them. I did use OEM oil pump and cooler.
 

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I added a few questions above in an edit. Please be specific and detailed.

Also, you said you installed new standpipes and dummy plugs, but were they OEM?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Idk about the delete it was that way when I bought it. Has a j tube going into the oil cooler. Used a bostech hpop which I actually don't know if it's OEM or not. Ipr and icp came from auto parts store I also don't know if it's OEM it def cost enough.lol I did do the injectors myself I'll check the timing on oil and get back to you in A min
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
12.86 seconds open and 7.84 seconds closed. Yes I have rechecked the ipr it's good. I did oil the parts before I put them in. I haven't done an air test I don't have the tools or compressor to check it
 

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I hope aftermarket parts are not causing the problems, but ICP and IPR from auto parts stores do not have a great reputation.

Additionally, the Bostech HPOP is not OEM and not OEM quality either. There is a fairly recent thread about a Bostech HPOP (late model one at that) being bad out of the box.

The oil filter housing fill times are a bit slow, but aren't too bad, so for now I would have to say your issue is in the high pressure oil system.

An air test would be needed IMO.

Have you tried starting with the ICP unplugged (ie a hot start attempt)?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
God I surely hope not. The truck would barley crank before the oil pump and go half a mile if that and die. Now it starts right up cold and will run all-day until you shut it off so I hope that isn't the case either. And yes I tried that earlier today I've been trying to run it up and down the road daily for the past week once a day I read that they don't like to sit unused and performance wise it is getting better everyday running better and smoother each time. Just once a day is all you get out of it. But yes I did I tried that earlier before I posted this just out of curiosity and still no start. I agree with the air test I just don't know anyone that has the tools and frankly just don't have the extra money right now to be buying anything else. I may have to ask a fella up the street I see he has a couple tore down in his yard he may have the tools to air test it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Just boggles me how it cranks and runs so good until you shut it down. And on top of that the pressure on the dash reads when cold. once it's hot the needle won't raise when cranking.
 

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The oil is quite a bit thinner when it is hot. Any leak or pump issue will get worse with thinner oil .....
 

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If you get on these forums before spending all that money, the advice will be a RESOUNDING - "Do not buy aftermarket parts - especially for sensors and actuators and things that require quality seals and o-rings".
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Oh I did trust me. I've read just about every forum I can find on hot no start I've seen a ton of diesel tech rons videos I didn't know a thing about. Diesels when I bought this truck forums and videos have got me where I'm at. The truck temp will be at like 197 and the eot will be at about 94 95 ish
 

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Oh I did trust me. I've read just about every forum I can find on hot no start I've seen a ton of diesel tech rons videos I didn't know a thing about. Diesels when I bought this truck forums and videos have got me where I'm at. The truck temp will be at like 197 and the eot will be at about 94 95 ish

The oil temperature you posted is not correct. It has to be higher than the coolant - unless you have a air-to-oil oil cooler, and even then it would be too low.
 

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IMO one of your parts that was installed has failed prematurely or you have an installation problem - which happens sometimes.
 
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