Ok Boys….here it goes. I bought my first diesel Ford truck after many gas ones and it’s been all downhill. I got a 2006 F350, 6.0, crew cab long bed, 4wd with 200K miles, but it recently had a new crate Ford long block installed in it just before I got it. They also upgraded to ARP studs. I have the paperwork to prove the work was done. Seems the EGR or oil cooler failed and things went south. Since I got it I have installed 8 new Ford injectors with new hold downs due to potential bolt stretch if you reuse the old ones. I did this due to stiction(hard cold starts) and 3 injectors failed a cylinder contribution test at the dealer. Did the STC upgrade on the HPOP, upgraded stand pipes with Teflon washers, rebuilt the HPOP oil rails, new Ford oil cooler( Doorman crap one installed had deteriorated gasket), EGR delete (it already had this when engine was installed), blue fuel pressure regulator spring, alternator and 2 batteries, IPR, Fuel pump and water separator, SCT Livewire, and upgraded turbo oil supply line and drain. I also flushed the daylights out of it and put in a new radiator and heater core and Ford gold coolant. I only run Motorcraft oil and filters. I have done my homework. Thing runs great….when it starts. Here’s the problem. About 3 out of ten times she won’t start hot. Especially if it’s shut off just for a few minutes. I know what you’re thinking but the HPOP is great! The IPR screen is clean and the HPOP pressure is way above 500 psi when it cranks hot!! I have to either crank the heck out of it like 3 or 4 times for 20 seconds or let it sit for awhile and cool down. The compression in all 8 cylinders is 390-400 psi and it passes leak down tests with flying colors so it’s healthy internally. Also air tested through the ICP and no leaks as indicated by good HPOP pressure. FICM voltage is good, grounds and battery connections are good as well. It cranks nice and fast too. Fuel pressure tests fine. IT NEVER THROWS CODES EITHER. I’m stumped. I even threw an OEM cam sensor at it. I went out and bought a Scan Gauge II as my SCT didn’t have a prompt to monitor cam/crank sensor sync. When it’s cranking it never shows sync until it starts….is this normal with a Scan Gauge? Even when the engine fires right up in the morning or the 7 out of 10 times she starts just fine hot, the sync doesn’t change from 0 to 1 until she fires. When it’s acting up, it never shows sync until it finally starts. I’m a really good shade tree mechanic but I’m ready to drive it in a lake!! I’ve dumped a ton of money into the thing to make it dependable and I really could use any and all help. THANKS and sorry so long, but figured you guys needed good background data!!