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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wasn't quite sure where to post this to get the most exposure but I'll give this a shot. I need some guidance on rebuilding my 6.0. The truck itself is a 2004 but the engine is labeled as a 2003 on the valve cover and all signs point to it being an 03 engine(IPR under turbo, etc.). I'm assuming there was a crossover period in sept. 03 maybe? Anyways the truck was studded, deleted, and had an SCT tuner. It started giving a dead skip, smoking white, shook terribly when the TC locked, and had tons of blowby. I pulled the engine and realized I couldn't fix it at the time so it sat for a couple years.(bad move I know) But I'm ready to tackle this thing now and I'm hoping for some guidance on the rebuild process and recommended parts. I started the teardown and found the front cover was full of what looked like red mud and stopleak of some kind. Pulled the heads off and cyl. 4 and 6 were both in pretty bad shape so my only option is to do a full rebuild. I've added some pics of the damage below. Sent the bare block, bed plate, crank. and heads to the machine shop. The machine shop said heads were trashed, the block needs .030 bored out of it and the crank gear had some pitting and they recommended replacing. Found a used crank with a 90 day warranty for $250 online so it'll be here tomorrow then sent to the machine shop to be checked. I feel like I've got a parts list that's a mile long and 12k deep that I'll share on here if it'll let me. I'm getting really close to having to buy a LOT of parts and I'd like to be able to save a little money if I can but I really don't want to cut any corners. Am I at least on the right track with this parts list? Would any of you guys recommend a different brand for any of these parts? And most importantly, DID I MISS ANYTHING?
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2004 (Early) F-350 SC SRW 4x4 6sp
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Did you measure your piston protrusion before pulling the crank? It might tell you if the block has been milled too far already. I have the same engine, it's an early '04 and they have the 2003 sticker on them.
I can't imagine someone using stop leak and something with an oil cooler.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I did not measure that before I pulled the pistons...To my knowledge the block has never been milled before though, is that something the machine shop would be able to check? And oh yeah trust me I was mad when I pulled the front cover and saw this green slime in there.
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Funny thing is after I had it studded by a shop that "knew what they were doing" It clogged the oil cooler and the guy said he would do another flush and get me a cooler under warranty. Hadn't had the truck back but a few weeks and the oil temp started to creep up, had the shop flush it again and put another oil cooler on it. Then the truck started smoking and skipping, so I called the guy again and the phone was disconnected. Went by his shop and it was completely empty with a for sale sign on the door...
 

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More likley than not even if you machine and stud the heads from that engine you will have problems. Once you get the block situation figured out and IF you plan on keeping the truck. Worth every single penny and more for a set of KDD heads. If you plan on stock injectors/turbo the studs will be enough but if you plan on after market injectors/larger turbo/tuning you want a set of o-ringed heads combined with studs or you'll be doing the job all over again.
 

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2004 (Early) F-350 SC SRW 4x4 6sp
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I did not measure that before I pulled the pistons...To my knowledge the block has never been milled before though, is that something the machine shop would be able to check?
I imagine they can check against the block specs and find out. I only ask because mine was a reman at some point in the past and my protrusion was... a bit unsettling, so my assumption was the block had been milled a bit too far. I bolted it up with some adjustments to compensate and it turned out OK, but it had me worried.

Something smashed around in that one cylinder. Those pistons look like hell. That coolant tho... That's criminal. There are lots of smart folks here; I'm not exactly one of them, but I did successfully pull and stud my heads cab-on and got loads of help here. Your shop said the heads were garbage so like Justin009 says, good time to get some decent heads with o-rings. I didn't because mine were straight and un-cracked. But had they had either of those issues I would have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Something smashed around in that one cylinder. Those pistons look like hell. That coolant tho... That's criminal.
Crazy thing is, its two separate cylinders, which is what's really confusing lol.
Here's my parts list I've made so far
  • KDD overhaul kit with .030 over coated pistons and stage 2 KDD cam kit
  • KDD O-ringed heads
  • Billet LPOP
  • WDI 190/30 injectors
  • New HPOP
  • OEM updated oil cooler
  • Standpipes and dummy plug kit
  • driven diesel R/R kit
  • FASS F14 220G lift pump
  • Cold Air Intake (undecided on brand as of now)
  • KC stage 2 turbo
Anything I've missed? this is gonna be a looooong project.
 

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Have you talked to KC or the Injector guys about that combo? You also need custom tuning and some trials to get it dialed in to run right. If you plan on keeping the truck for a long time look into bulletproof diesels air cooled oil cooler conversion kit and never worry about clogging the liquid heat exchange type cooler again. I would only invest in the above injector/turbo if you plan on keeping the truck and recouping some of the investment. If so the oil cooler upgrade is again the only way to go truly longterm. If the oil cooler is out of budget then at minimum the IPR full flow coolant filter with the oem oil cooler.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I was really hesitant about going with Asheville just because I've heard some horror stories from a few years back, what's everyone's opinion of them now? Has anyone had an experience with KDD's build in a box? Also I'll have a little update from the machine shop later today.
 

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You need to expalin the horror stories. The only one I remember is where one was sent back because the guy thought it had used pistons, and as it came off the loading dock they video's it bing disassembled and had new pistons.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You need to expalin the horror stories. The only one I remember is where one was sent back because the guy thought it had used pistons, and as it came off the loading dock they video's it bing disassembled and had new pistons.
I seem to remember hearing about guys getting used parts in their engines, and a couple other things like cracked reman heads being used? I could be very very wrong about it and I wanna make it clear I'm not trying to bash that company or anything of that nature, I'm just genuinely curious about what your guys experience with them has been like.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Have you talked to KC or the Injector guys about that combo? You also need custom tuning and some trials to get it dialed in to run right. If you plan on keeping the truck for a long time look into bulletproof diesels air cooled oil cooler conversion kit and never worry about clogging the liquid heat exchange type cooler again. I would only invest in the above injector/turbo if you plan on keeping the truck and recouping some of the investment. If so the oil cooler upgrade is again the only way to go truly longterm. If the oil cooler is out of budget then at minimum the IPR full flow coolant filter with the oem oil cooler.
I had toyed with the idea of getting the BPD oil cooler but with as many people are out there running stock coolers and not having trouble out of them that will probably be a later on upgrade. Custom tuning is definitely going to be done, I was thinking of going through Warren diesel for the tuning. I haven't heard much about the IPR full flow but I will definitely add that to the list!
 

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I'm in the middle of the same job here in Denver. I'm having the machine shop located in Westminster do the rebuild. He's going to use studs, balance the rotating assembly and put in a Colt cam; (C.849.H); He says the engine will/should spin up faster than I can shift, without a tuner. We were both on the same page. I'll be into the engine for under 6K when it's done.

But here's my food for thought question I'm asking myself. If this isn't what I do all the time; does it actually cost less to assemble the engine myself? I can't assemble this engine for less then $4700? Which is the cost without a balanced rotating assembly and a cam. What is just machine shop work cost to do the short block? I haven't asked. So maybe it is cheaper but..

I gotta ask how you can be 12k deep into this? That's the price of a factory new 6.0? I'd think $4700 is a reasonable number for a rebuild? Are my #'s off? I'm approaching this job as trying to buy as little as possible. I had way too many gaskets and parts left over from my last engine rebuild. So I'm only buying stuff if I need it, at the expense of having to wait. I'm lengthening my timeline until finish, I'm not rushing this one.

C
 

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The $12k engine is not the same as you get buying a new truck. But I guess that depends on your quality interpretation of "factory new." Here is my "factory new" Motorcraft engine installed by a Ford dealership. It was the first time I ever had someone else assemble an engine for me; I'm going back to assembling my own engines, where I should have been in the first place.


 
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