Ive read many forums from this website but just recently signed up due to an ongoing problem with my 2005 6.0 that I cant seem to get any information on. For the past year or so my truck has been getting fuel in the oil to the point where it dilutes the oil so bad that it cannot build enough pressure to start. I pulled all the injectors recently and found no damaged o rings, proceeded to re seal all of them and make sure all of the injectors are at proper torque. Still had the problem. I assumed the only thing that could be left to check were the cylinder heads so I went ahead and bought a new set of o-ringed heads, studs and a few other parts. Pulled the cab, check the pistons, no cracks and no scoring in the cylinders so all seemed well internally. Drove the truck for about 700 miles the following week, ran great, had good power but then started having the same issues of dilution. Im at a loss any input would be appreciated.
6.0 Fuel in oil dilution
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its your injectors.... you have a few leaking through the body into the cylinders when it is turned off. When they leak and dilute your oil it is also making it run hotter as well. Reason I know this is because I just went through the exact same thing. I chased it for awhile and replaced all 8 injectors and it fixed the issue. Just a guess/question but are your glow plugs leaking? When you get new injectors make sure they are completely rebuilt including spool valves. If I were you I would stop driving it.
If they are leaking down into the cylinders wouldn't that mean I would have a bad piston ring letting the fuel pass down into the crankcase? The truck does not seem to run hot temps around town and on the highway rarely exceed 195 and no leaking glow plugs. I just want to be certain before I go buy a set of injectors. Is there a way to pull the injectors and test them for leaking or send them out somewhere to get tested?
welcome, I didn't want to mess with trying to have them all tested and only replace 1 or 2. I went ahead and replaced them all for good measure. its solved my issue so far and have driven my truck across country and back with no issues, but I also did the IPR external oil cooler and l flow coolant filter, new transmission, 8 injectors and tires lol. so far so good! hope this info helps. let us know when you correct your issue.
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So is it necessary to replace ALL injectors or just the bad ones? Ford replace two or three of mine and when i questioned them they said it was only necessary to replace defective ones
FWIW- from my experience I just go ahead and replace them all so I don't have to dive back in 3 months down the road and that solely is my opinion instead of replacing a couple then a couple fail later. FORD also said to run gold coolant and look how that turned out..
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Yes its your opinion and thats what i was looking for thank you very much. since i can't make up my mind. To replace them all is $3,400 and two or three were replaced by Ford at 66k and the truck has 110k on it now. I'm leaning to just replacing the bad ones for now since they charge book hours. so i really don't save anything labor wise by doing them all.
Which 3 did they replace at 66k miles? Personally I wouldn't replace those unless you had something like bad fuel or low fuel pressure that could reasonably take out even a BRAND NEW injector.
If you had 3 replaced on one bank, then I would consider replacing all 4 on the opposite bank and see how that did.
If you had 3 replaced on one bank, then I would consider replacing all 4 on the opposite bank and see how that did.
IMO if you are spending big bucks on injectors, then you need to install a fuel pressure sensor and gauge. Low fuel pressure is one of the most common reasons for injector failure, so why not monitor it and protect your (BIG) investment?
As far as fuel in the oil, it absolutely does not mean you have bad sealing at the rings.
As far as fuel in the oil, it absolutely does not mean you have bad sealing at the rings.
The top oring on the injector seals fuel from the crankcase -- fuel in the oil, that would be my first place to look
@bismic is right on with the low fuel pressure -- damage to the intensifier piston will let it bypass fuel into the high pressure oil
low fuel pressure allows the intensifier piston to slam the internal stop -- damaging the piston, housing and return spring
A lot of the injector problems we see here stem from low fuel pressure -- I recommend a fuel pressure gauge for all 6.0 engines as a basic requirement
Base oil pressure, Fuel pressure, and Degas bottle pressure would be my suggestion for all these trucks -- many of the potential problems we see could be avoided by monitoring these
@bismic is right on with the low fuel pressure -- damage to the intensifier piston will let it bypass fuel into the high pressure oil
low fuel pressure allows the intensifier piston to slam the internal stop -- damaging the piston, housing and return spring
A lot of the injector problems we see here stem from low fuel pressure -- I recommend a fuel pressure gauge for all 6.0 engines as a basic requirement
Base oil pressure, Fuel pressure, and Degas bottle pressure would be my suggestion for all these trucks -- many of the potential problems we see could be avoided by monitoring these
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Mine is getting new injectors as we speak. Good advice. How do i instal a sensor and gauge?
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there is an oil presure gauge on the dash already. I need the fuel presure. That can fluctuate with low batt V also right?
Add on gauge or are you talking about the factory gauge?
the factory gauge is a glorified idiot light -- it can only show half way and zero -- the sender trips at 5-7 PSI
fuel pressure is set by the regulator in the filter housing(blue spring) and should be about 70 psi -- there is a port on the housing, you will need an adapter for the threads
the factory gauge is a glorified idiot light -- it can only show half way and zero -- the sender trips at 5-7 PSI
fuel pressure is set by the regulator in the filter housing(blue spring) and should be about 70 psi -- there is a port on the housing, you will need an adapter for the threads
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Thats the presure on the low presure side right?
The dash gauge is showing ONLY the output of the oil pressure switch. At 5-7 psi, the switch sends the (fake) gauge in the instrument panel to the middle of the scale. There are only two positions: At the bottom and in the middle.
5-7 psig is WAY TOO LOW for proper pressure of the low pressure oil system. So - we are telling you that the gauge on the instrument panel is of minimal use.
5-7 psig is WAY TOO LOW for proper pressure of the low pressure oil system. So - we are telling you that the gauge on the instrument panel is of minimal use.
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thanks
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