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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am needing to pull a motor for a complete rebuild and the fab shops I have inquired about for brackets and plates is either back ordered or asks for an obscene amount of money ($500+). I have no metal working ability and don't think fabricating brackets would be a very safe option. I checked on eBay following a popular engine mount thread here but it seems like they are no longer sold there.

I wanted to see if anyone had some not in use that I could rent, am willing to pay for shipping both ways, rental fee, and a full deposit up front. Would probably need for a few weeks to one month.

Or if anyone has any suggestions on where to purchase these at a reasonable cost, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks,
 

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Where are you located?
 

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Bummer. I am not exactly sure what you're looking for.

I built a rotating stand and spreader bar to lift the engine out but it's huge and probably not worth even trying to ship.

I was hoping you were in Socal (or closer) I'd let you use the setup for sure.

Joe
 

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Houston TX
Power Stroke Enginuities is in Houston. Super reputable on 6.0 Powerstrokes. I would see if they have a rental program


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I made one out of 2” solid bar stock and some plate I drilled. I brought the bar stock through the plate so it’s welded on both sides. Took about an hour and holding my 6.4 just fine.

Like this, all I used was my welder and porta band saw
 

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Like this, all I used was my welder and porta band saw
Long time lurker, I saw a nice lift brkt that mounts where the turbo brkt mounts and then has an arm that goes forward to get you more centered. I believe it was by toomanytoys. I would like to get a diagram for the lift brkt so I can build one before I start taking the cab off. Does anyone have the dimensions for the bolt holes on top of the block where the turbo brkt mounts? I would gladly make a few and send them out.

Thank you
 

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06 6.0 drw 635 rwhp (retired) 08 KR build in progress
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That sounds like the ls1 lift bracket for F-bodies since the engine is so far back under the cowl. I removed the turbos on my 6.4 and hooked chain to turbo hood down bolt
 

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I made one out of 2” solid bar stock and some plate I drilled. I brought the bar stock through the plate so it’s welded on both sides. Took about an hour and holding my 6.4 just fine.

Unfortunately he mentioned having no metal work ability....great idea though
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Bummer. I am not exactly sure what you're looking for.

I built a rotating stand and spreader bar to lift the engine out but it's huge and probably not worth even trying to ship.

I was hoping you were in Socal (or closer) I'd let you use the setup for sure.

Joe
I appreciate it.



Reached out to PSE to see what they say, if not maybe best solution is to just get some materials/measurements and find a welder. I can do cutting and drilling but would not trust anything I've welded together

Thanks
 

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I've been asked to make my lift plate for about a dozen people, and about half asked about the engine stand mounting plate.

This is the plate that was offered on eBay that is no longer available. However, the guy made tons of money on it. That was the only thing I believe he sold under that handle, so over 500 plates.

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FICMRepair sells it for $388.92, but you can rent over 30 days for $194.46. That's just friggin insane, rape and pillage mode. If he's going to charge that, maybe it's time for me. Not sure how not to run afoul of any rules here.

When I pulled my motor, I was trying to show people how this can be done inexpensively using 8020 15 series aluminum, which at the time was readily available on eBay.


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I used 8020's engineering numbers to check if it would handle the load and testing it in a farm-approved manner. That's the weight of the motor using only one section of 8020 with twice the width, so a 6x safety factor.

A 10.9 8mm bolt has preload value of 5,125lbs. So I think four has the 950lb motor covered 👍. I used a 1/2" lifting eye in the center of the 8020 bars.

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Here is the lift plate I made. It's doesn't have to have as far of a lead to the front, nor as high. There are tons of versions of lift plates online; I can add other images if need.

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I think it cost me about $30 in steel, requires cutting, drilling, and welding. I don't remember the time involved.

The engine stand plates were more involved, price of steel, and fabrication.

I've got an unfinished video without narration on making those plates and the engine stand I never shared. I've got tons of 8020 as I use it to make benches, fixtures, etc. It's an expensive product, but when I'm done with the stand, all that aluminum gets unbolted and used for other fixtures or whatever.

Those plates can be used with any two normal stands bolted or welded together using the existing axles, although the hole mays have to be drilled to the flange design spacing.

 
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Nothing at all. The lifting eyes work but distort bad and nearly damage the valve cover.

I removed the engine using them, but built a spreader bar that had a swivel eye for fine adjustments when I installed the engine.
 

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As has been mentioned, the existing lift eyes work fine but must be used with a spreader bar so they dont bend inward. An adjustable spreader would be best anyways, so you can get the balance point where it is needed

Should be obvious, but here it is anyways
You can fab brackets for an engine stand, but will need an outboard "kick stand" to support the far side of the motor -- most average stands do not have the second point support, and will need to have that made up
 

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As Joe mentioned, but you need longer. The problem can be clearance at the back even without the chains.

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Another plate version, simple.

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I agree with hydro, for a single post stand you need a front brace. But with a twin post, you do not.

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Mine. Although when torquing down the heads, I rotate to 90º and use a brace (2x4) between the floor and engine to make it solid. At 90º, I can use my body weight by myself to torque down and not have to worry about holding the engine in place.

776504
 
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Nice pics, Jack, thanks for the details

I would prefer to have the balance point biased toward the rear of the engine some, then use a come-a-long on the front to allow the engine to tilt as needed -- to help with alignment
 

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OTC makes some good tools tho -- kinda get what you pay for
 

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At the end of the day, the center mounted bracket with a swivel (or clevis) will be the best option. My spreader bar went from eye to eye (no chain) and it was very tight at the firewall, but it worked great.

This engine is deceptively HEAVIER than you think.

Be careful and make sure you have the properly rated cherry picker if you are going that route.
 
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