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Discussion Starter #1
I have been reading and searching and finally decided to join (been on PSA for years). My truck was running very rough and I tracked it down to #4 and #5 injectors were bad. I had some downtime so I replaced those, did a new oil cooler while I was in there as well. I noticed the HPOP screen was blown (good thing I checked) and I had a small IPR screen tear. Replaced all of that. Got it running again and then it died, replaced the IPR screen (twice). After the second new screen I started it up and it ran great, drove it ten miles and it died while pulling into one of my fields. Would not start and threw a P0113 code. I forgot to plug in that sensor on the intake. Pulled the IPR and the screen was clean with no tears. Plugged the sensor back in no start. HPOP has 80k on it updated sct and stand pipes and plugs. New oil cooler ect. but can that temp sensor on the intake cause a no start? im trying to track down a big scanner at the moment. I’m just lost...
 

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What year truck/engine?

What are you using to check for codes?

I doubt that the P0113 was the cause of the engine dying or not starting. That said, it can cause rough operation. When/if it is running, you can wiggle the wiring to the MAF sensor and see if it dies.

When you replaced the IPR screen, did you see any particles lodged/stuck in the IPR valve itself?
 

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Edit - I guess I missed where you said you forgot to plug the MAF sensor in.

Now that it is plugged in, do you still have the code? Did you clear the code and it came back?
 

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Since that sensor is both the Intake Air Temp AND the MAF sensor, I guess it might cause a no-start if the v-reference wire were shorted out, but that would likely result in other codes.

Can you get engine data while cranking. That would be a big help.

FICM sync
FICM MPower
FICM LPower
FICM VPower
fuel injector pulse width
cranking rpms
ICP pressure ICP volts
IPR % duty cycle
v-reference voltage
 

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yes
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok when I get it all programmed in the morning I’ll do my best to get those readings for ya I appreciate the help
 

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Discussion Starter #10
IPR is 84.7
FICM sync is 1
ICP is 23
ICP Voltage is 0.27
FICM MPower is 48.5
vref is 5.00
RPM is 125
FICM LPower is 9.50

didn’t know what option on the gauge was injector pulse width. If you let me know I can download it and see what it is
 

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Fuel Injector Pulse Width (microseconds) or Fuel Pulse Width​
TXD: 07E0221410​
RXF: 046205140610​
RXD: 3010​
MTH: 000800010000​
NAM: FPW​
 

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Your cranking voltage is too low to start and your cranking rpms are too low also. You need over 10 volts when cranking and over 150 rpms.

Charge your batteries and individually load test them.

After the electrical system issues are resolved, you still may have a FICM issue (due to the low system voltages).
 

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"ICP Voltage is 0.27"
"RPM is 125"
You have a high pressure oil leak or the IPR is not closing
 

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Totally missed that, guess I was focused on the battery issue (which I like to take care of before anything else).

Nice catch Hydro.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I mean, I’ve blown that IPR screen like three times in the last ten days. Think the IPR is just bad? I don’t know where I would have a leak, I made sure the oil rails were torqued. New stands and dummies, sct fitting was updated a while back. Voltage has never been great. I’ve swapped a lot of batteries into that truck to charge them up when I’m out in the middle of nowhere without a battery charger. I really appreciate the help you guys! I’ll get those batteries charged up This morning. I’m wondering if blowing that screen that many times might have just shot the IPR
 

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So, went back an read the beginning of this thread
The screen under the oil cooler purpose is to protect the inlet of the HPOP, it should never get plugged or torn from pressure damage, unless junk has got past the engine oil filter -- how can this happen? - the filter bypass may be open, poor handling of the filters when changing them, or contaminated storage of the filters, etc.

The screen on the IPR valve is there to protect the valve from junk that may come out of the high pressure oil pump - tearing of the screen indicates that there has been junk present - the screen cannot hold the pressure(4000 psi) and will split -- releasing the junk thru the valve -- likely lodging in the valve control piston

Three things I see from reading this:
1 - Low voltage - possibly from battery cable connections - you have said the battery's have been replaced - check the ground on the driver side at the frame and the passenger side at the engine block. Measure voltage from the passenger negative battery post actual, to the block and from the driver negative battery post actual to the body while cranking - both readings should be less than one volt -- Measure from the positive post on each battery to the alternator output post while cranking should be less than one volt -- Measure at each battery across the post actual while cranking, should be no less than 10 volts -- charge or have the battery's load tested
2 - The replaced injectors -- Need to get a gauge on the fuel system and verify that there is more than 45 psi at all times - the spring kit should hold at 75 psi -- Low fuel pressure will kill injectors in this type of system -- I would recommend a permanent gauge, either electronic or manual - you need a thread adapter to connect
3 - "ICP Voltage is 0.27" -- that is the pressure sensor for the injection oil, basically sitting on zero -- the voltage reading ranges from about 0.25 - 5.0 volts -- at cranking the system needs greater than 500 psi before the injectors will be turned on -- so about 0.8 volts to start up

Pull the IPR valve back out and bench test it to see if it can close off -- clamp a hose to the tip, so you can connect an air hose - if you have a pigtail connect 12 volts to the tail, or carefully touch the terminals -- the valve should snap closed and hold the air
All that junk that has torn the screen has went thru or lodged in the valve - no other place for it to go - you may be able to remove the screen and pick the screen parts out of the valve -- be sure the oring on the outside of the IPR valve is in good shape
 

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Nice list.

Farmer350 - the batteries and/or cranking voltage are the top priority IMO. You will no doubt be cranking during the rest of the troubleshooting process (high pressure oil system) ..... and low voltage will ruin your FICM (hundreds of dollars). You can also crank w/ the starter solenoid jumper wire (key off) to avoid running the risk of damaging your FICM. Also, as stated above, you will not get it to start under 150 rpm.

Also be aware that the IPR screen can be a protection device for your injectors. Anything making it past the IPR valve (that isn't dumped back to the crankcase) is going to go to an injector.

When the screens are torn, it is usually because of being plugged with (or struck by) solids. Solids in the high pressure oil system have to come from somewhere. From what I have read, you never identified the source. Not trying to make you paranoid, but it is worth thinking about the root cause of these issues w/ the high pressure oil system.
 

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Key off and use the jumper wire - or pull the FICM power relay and use the key would work
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The source for what? The blowing of the IPR screen? When I pulled the cooler to replace it, I noticed the HPOP screen blown. I proceeded to clean the valley and everything very well. I must have got a little crap down the hole. I pulled the IPR after injectors were replaced and noticed a small tear in the screen. I replaced the screen and orings. Got it running, truck died shortly after 30min. Pulled IPR and screen had blown again. Replaced screen and orings (#2)sprayed out with break cleaner. Drove truck for a few days, ran great no more bucking or surging (did it before i replaced everything) then felt a slight surging like it was running low on fuel. Went and put $50 in and started back up. Drive to my hay barn, shut off truck. Started hay squeeze and ran for an hour came back and truck wouldn’t start. Pulled IPR and replaced screen (#3). Started up great, drive truck 10 miles felt truck lose power at the light then shut off. forgot to plug filter minder and MAF sensor in. Got code P0113. towed truck to Farm, pulled IPR and screen was fine. Unhooked batteries yesterday morning and hooked them back up code went away but no start. I’m going to try the IPR rest and see what it does. I unhooked ICP yesterday and pressure was 1500 unhooked. Then it’s like the 15 when cranking. I’m gunna trickle charge batteries today, and start there. Then I might throw in a new a IPR just to say I’ve got a new IPR.
 
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