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6.0 Cylinder Walls Pitted

12524 Views 125 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  texasrange
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Here are some pictures of my cylinder walls. This is a March 2004 build date. Can this be saved inside the truck? I can for sure feel the pits. Thanks for looking

Turner
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Here you can see in post #24 what I had built at that time:

I have also ordered the lapping stone from FICMrepair, it is on the way to me.
Stones typically are too fine. It's funny how lately how Ed seems to be videoing subjects of mine after I publish one. He got it wrong.

Using sharpening stones available are too fine, typically 400 grit and finer. Lapping stones to flatten a sharpening stone can be around 280 grit, still too fine. They will polish the surfaces to a degree the Ra will be lower than should be achieved, and then you risk the situation that DTR commented on one time, the deck surface was too smooth.

As I've said in my videos, you need a flat surface. Some of the stock at metal sellers is fine; it can be checked with a straight edge. You can hone an aluminum plate to flat if you have a granite plate. You can use three aluminum plates to hone each to flat, using a two or three-plate method.

What is needed is 150 grit and 180 grit, and 180 grit can get below 10 Ra if you use the paper for too long. After that, the grit breaks down to a finer level, and you end up at 220 grit or 360 grit.
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This should confuse the hell out of people.

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Yeah, I literally just got done watching that video. Very interesting, but.. holy smokes that's a lot of work to get to a flat surface before even starting the real project. I've got enough on my plate without adding another.

So, you're saying stay away from the stone method because the result is too smooth of a surface. However, it's clear we must have a flat/straight surface for prepping the block. I looked up lapping plates, and they are all over the place on price and quality. Anywhere from $50 to $1000's. So, perhaps renting the lapping plate from ficm repair and using that to attach sandpaper is a good way to go? Unless you can recommend a reasonably flat lapping plate to use that costs $100 or less?

Also, so I'm clear on the grit recommendation. You're saying, start with 150, then move to 180 and it's desirable to 'use the paper too long' so it ends up in the 220 to 360 grit range? As opposed to just doing 150, 180 and then finishing with something like 360? If you can't tell, I'm looking for the secret sauce step-by-step recipe so there's no room for screwing it up. I don't want to have to do this twice.
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We all make choices of how much work we want to put into our trucks. For me, hours of lapping with the intent to better the head gasket situation was not that much of a task.

But as my old director would say to me, you're willing to do a lot more than others in your situation. One of those times was instrumenting a Waste Management garbage truck in the middle of summer in Atlanta because as the department manager, I couldn't ask my employees to do it by themselves if I wasn't. It washes off.

Ed is just finding a way to make money; they rape and pilage on things like this.

You can do it or not. People have been fine not lapping the decks.

150 then 180. You're done.

New paper, top-down, left to right and back.
New paper, top-down 45º angle, left to right and back.
New paper, top-down -45º angle. left to right and back.
New paper, left-right, top to bottom, and back.

You have to keep changing paper because the hard iron surface destroys the grit. Otherwise, it takes longer. Sandpaper is cheap.

Depending on the surface and cleanliness, repeat.

When the surface starts to look good, switch to 180 grit.

You need a flat plate or object. Some guys have run a piece of hard lumber through a plane until it "sparks out," measured flat. I've bought aluminum and steel cutoffs from my metal supplier for a few dollars that measured flat with the straight edge I took with me.

You can buy an aluminum plate from McMaster and check it for flatness. If not flat, they take anything that's not been used back, like Amazon.

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Amazon has lapping plates; this one says it's flat to 0.0005", like mine.


They have other stone flattening tools that might be as flat. You have to measure.

Here's one that says it's 150 grit; I'm surprised. But I wouldn't use it bare; I'd use the paper, and this would be the holder. But, again, it needs to be checked for flatness.


There are different ways of doing this; you need to get imaginative.
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We all make choices of how much work we want to put into our trucks. For me, hours of lapping with the intent to better the head gasket situation was not that much of a task.

But as my old director would say to me, you're willing to do a lot more than others in your situation. One of those times was instrumenting a Waste Management garbage truck in the middle of summer in Atlanta because as the department manager, I couldn't ask my employees to do it by themselves if I wasn't. It washes off.

Ed is just finding a way to make money; they rape and pilage on things like this.

You can do it or not. People have been fine not lapping the decks.

150 then 180. You're done.

New paper, top-down, left to right and back.
New paper, top-down 45º angle, left to right and back.
New paper, top-down -45º angle. left to right and back.
New paper, left-right, top to bottom, and back.

You have to keep changing paper because the hard iron surface destroys the grit. Otherwise, it takes longer. Sandpaper is cheap.

Depending on the surface and cleanliness, repeat.

When the surface starts to look good, switch to 180 grit.

You need a flat plate or object. Some guys have run a piece of hard lumber through a plane until it "sparks out," measured flat. I've bought aluminum and steel cutoffs from my metal supplier for a few dollars that measured flat with the straight edge I took with me.

You can buy an aluminum plate from McMaster and check it for flatness. If not flat, they take anything that's not been used back, like Amazon.

View attachment 783688

Amazon has lapping plates; this one says it's flat to 0.0005", like mine.


They have other stone flattening tools that might be as flat. You have to measure.

Here's one that says it's 150 grit; I'm surprised. But I wouldn't use it bare; I'd use the paper, and this would be the holder. But, again, it needs to be checked for flatness.


There are different ways of doing this; you need to get imaginative.
If the block was flat (checked via straight edge and feeler gauges, with the same spec as the heads), would those scotch Brite pads be ok to use? And would you use a flat object with those too or just by hand?
I'm against using the rotary tools on the decks, especially when we have a critical situation with a history of failures. You have the possibility of wallowing the surface, but you also have an uncontrolled surface when it comes to the finish. I have no issue using the rotary Scotchbrite with other sealing surfaces that are not as critical.

Even though people like myself without tunes do not have HG problems to the extent others do, when putting the motor together, I want to do the best I can. I always try to do the best I can, but we all make mistakes. Bad enough to deal with that.
Thanks a ton @TooManyToys . I really appreciate the tips and time you put into hunting down some links. This gives me more confidence in tackling it.

One last question (as-if), I picture sand and crap getting into the cylinders, oil and coolant passages. Any tips on keeping the crud out or cleaning it out after I'm done? Or am I overthinking this step as well and it's as simple as brake clean and a good vacuum/wipe down?
In the videos, for at least the block video, I use foam to block all the passages. I believe I have an image from Home Depot showing the caulking foam, which comes in different sizes. Sheet foam was used in the large lifter boxes. It takes a little finesse to fit them, but they work well. Occasionally you will drop the peanuts into the block, or the head passages, so you want to make sure you keep them out. The easiest way of retrieving them is to cut the extended size of coat hangers and create both a straight tool with a point and a tool with a slight curve to the bottom. I would use the straight tool to pierce the foam peanut at the bottom of the water jacket and bring it up to the top. Sometimes you can angle it through; sometimes, you need to use the other tool to grab it to bring it out of the block or head.

I'd add images of the foam installed, but most are on my other MAC, which somehow I've corrupted the files. So what was over 1TB of my Powerstroke pictures and videos comes out as ~0.6TB after a time machine restore and then "self-correcting" photo library restore.
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I just did a screengrab of the video on YouTube. You can see the foam in the image.

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I used both cut-down plastic containers from my food store and soup takeout, but I also in this image show the 4" foam discs I bought from McMaster, where I also got sheet foam, although any upholstery store has it.

I'll add the foam discs to the McMaster order example.

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This is helping motivate me to finally get my head job done. Just waiting for the ankle to heal after a surgery. I have kdd heads sitting there waiting for me to get to work. This step (cleaning and prepping the block) is the one that worries me the most since it seems super critical for a successful job. Would you mind elaborating more on your process for prepping the heads? What type of sandpaper? How you stuck it to the plate? You bought a lapping plate, or was able to rent one somewhere (a cursory look at these looks like they are pricey)? How would you recommend keeping crud out of everything? How do you determine when it's enough? Any other tips or things to consider?

On the flip side, I've seen some use stone, seemingly without 'flattening' it first (@FordDoctor videos?) and it's seemed to work fine for them. Ficm repair sells a stone and rents a lapping plate to true it up before using. Any strong feeling about this method? Why did you choose paper over stone?
It took a long time. I had some pitting in the deck surface that I was aiming to eliminate. I did not get it all. I would just set a plan to get even work in all directions on both sides. Be very consistent. Lapping plates are on Amazon and are key because of their flatness. 3m has a grippy backed sandpaper that really grabs the grit of the plate. Get some small magnets on Amazon to hold it. And a strong welding triangle for a handle. Watch the @TooManyToys video. Check with a feeler guage after in the locations shown in the video. Ficm repair also wants you to pay them to install an alternator pulley. So... all I know is you will be taking material off. You do not want to be using something that is not and will not stay flat. I did this on a bare block. When I was done I hung it up in my front yard and hosed it down.
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Thanks again @TooManyToys and @texasrange. I really appreciate all the tips and you taking the time to pay it forward by posting great content to help the next guy in line.
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Been a while. Forced my wife to let me get some more knocked out. Yesterday i got the tank drained and beans sump installed. I also installed the fans 140 and driven diesel fass kit. 5/8 pump feed, 1/2 pump return, and new 3/8 line straight from pump to tee in front of heads. After all this I fixed a hole on the exhaust and set the up pipes in place. I'll post about today's work in a bit. Drained 35 gallons of diesel.
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From today: set turbo. -6 feed line. Ran coolant port to tee into heater return. Completed regulated return and full fuel system. Installed alternator and bpd ficm. Set fluidyne oil cooler into place. Banks intercooler. Set radiator and center apron back into place. Cleaned and straightened fins of cooling stack. Made up and installed supplementary battery and alternator wiring. I'll get the oil filter and -12 oil lines in next.
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Just wanted to give you guys who are interested an update on the truck. I got the engine bay finished and fired it up without issue last Wednesday or Tuesday. Unplugged ficm relay and cranked until lpop guage went up. Plugged in relay and cranked it for about 20 seconds or so and it fired right up. No leaks besides a coolant leak. Front cover where coolant leaves for heater core: broke off collar when tightening. I just welded it shut and used my coolant port from the adapter plate to feed the heater core. No more leaks. I went with gearhead for tuning. Wow. Truck has 40s with 4.56 gears and rips extremely hard. Fasted vehicle I have ever owned for sure. I haven't hit wot quite yet as I'm trying to let the rings seat I guess. Idk. Trying to be good to it. It took about 21 quarts of oil to fill. Thanks for all the help guys and everyone on the forum. I learned so much from this experience. I'm not the kind of person to back down or give up when things go south so I had to make this the best I could. The trans seems to be in excellent shape. It was supposedly rebuilt but who knows with all the other lies the previous owner has told. Either way I'm still working to get everything else perfect on the truck as fas as steering, suspension, and brakes. I'll also be treating it to lots of sound deadening and am awesome sound system as this is a must for all of my vehicles. Feel free to ask me anything about the setup and how I did it. It all runs so dang well.
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Nice to read she is running again. (y)
How do you drive while break in process?
Well I'm probably still in the break in process. I'd say I've driven 50 miles now. But I've given her a good bit of throttle many times. Very fun to drive. I did a lot of work along the way like regearing, ball joints, random bushings or bearings, steering box, and generally cleaning her up so that once the engine turned on she was ready to go. So now all the sudden I have a new truck.
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Are you already running higher RPMs or are you using trailers to load the engine without high RPMs?
I haven't gotten real high with rpms. But I've given it a little bit. I wouldn't say I've been going super easy on it. I've done some hard acceleration and such to purge the high pressure oil system.
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