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I agree, probably the switch. My OP gauge quit working and I got a low pressure warning a few years ago. The switch just needed replaced. I don't know if the truck would even run if your low oil pressure was below the threshold where the warning message was supposed to come on. But I know very little, my truck idles at 4500 according to the tach.
From what I've read, it will run even with low oil pressure, but some damage can be done to internal bearings, so it's better to verify with a gauge.

Mine is so fast, sometimes it runs 20MPH sitting still at idle, so it sounds like you and I both need to send our instrument clusters in for repair LOL

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From what I've read, it will run even with low oil pressure, but some damage can be done to internal bearings, so it's better to verify with a gauge.

Mine is so fast, sometimes it runs 20MPH sitting still at idle, so it sounds like you and I both need to send our instrument clusters in for repair LOL

-jokester
I think the message shows at 6psi or less. Never hurts to check pressure if in doubt.

At least my tach returns to 0 when the engine shuts off. It has been wonky for a couple years. I just use the tach on the CTS2.
 
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How do I check the gauge? I'll look into it when I get back.

Nothing else on the dash was funky, and the oil pressure gauge was still in the middle. The light would come on for a couple seconds then go off for 10 seconds or so then come back on. We drove the hour to drop it off at my parents house without issue so im hoping its this switch thing lol.

Also my brother bought a 2016 ram rebel so I have to get gears because he simply can't have a faster truck than me lol but it is nice

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2005 F350 With 93K and stock for now
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Has anyone with little kids ever thought about welding car seat tabs to the back of the seats? I just hate how the three-point seatbelts going through the car seat is so loose no matter how hard you tighten them.
 

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I can’t remember how tight is the hub supposed to be to spin after reinstallation. I torqued for 60 ft lbs while rotating the hub as I drive it in then backed off 7 clicks ( used bearings ) I pre oiled the bearings . There is a good effort to spin them now ? If I loosen they spin freely minimal effort but retorque and back off 7 cLicks it’s pretty good effort to spin. Just wanna make sure it’s good




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@Red Ford you know after that sticker I would be suspicious of people doing other things to your truck.
I have kicked a Rebel around also as a daily driver.
 

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Does anyone know what direction to turn the bolt, on the power steering box, to tighten the play up?

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@Red Ford you know after that sticker I would be suspicious of people doing other things to your truck.
I have kicked a Rebel around also as a daily driver.
Yeah, I'm glad I have the locking fuel door but it still doesn't stop someone draining the oil or snipping a brake line. I took the truck back home and brought the Prius back here. After recent events at this apartment I'm already looking to get out. We discovered after just a month we have a mold problem. It took 12 hours for maintenance to answer the phone and they said "it's just surface mold, we wiped it off and put a fan in the room to dry it out". We have had nothing but issues here since day one, really regret the 10 month lease...

The Rebels are nice, my only complaint is they didn't come with the 6.4' box until the later years and the 5.5' is just too small. It does have a nice ride and looks really nice though.
 

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How many hours should it take to put a new gear ratio in these trucks? I'm trying to gauge how much I should be spending and I got some guesses a while back but I got tires of the "well I think it should cost around ...., when do you want to get it done?" No one has given me a solid number yet. So far I've planned on about $1,300 for parts based off of this set, would I need anything else? Is Nitro a decent brand? I've always heard of Yukon but I can't find a set like this from Yukon.

 

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Does anyone know what direction to turn the bolt, on the power steering box, to tighten the play up?

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Clockwise will put more pressure down on the gear set. Remember though, the clearance for the gears is set when its built just like a ring and pinion, and when there is play its time for a new one. So once you have worn gears, you can tighten up the distance between the gears, but the gap between the teeth is still there. You can make a small adjustment that may or may not make a difference. Too far and you'll just cause it to wear quicker and even make it stiffer, but in a bad way. I've been in trucks where people messed with it and then the wheel wont return to center. Imagine turning the wheel to go around a corner, and expecting the truck to come back straight, only to have it continue off towards the ditch.

IMO, deal with the play till you can replace the steering gear. And also make sure its not something else in the steering. Very little movement in a tie rod will equate to quite a bit of movement in the wheel.

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How many hours should it take to put a new gear ratio in these trucks? I'm trying to gauge how much I should be spending and I got some guesses a while back but I got tires of the "well I think it should cost around ...., when do you want to get it done?" No one has given me a solid number yet. So far I've planned on about $1,300 for parts based off of this set, would I need anything else? Is Nitro a decent brand? I've always heard of Yukon but I can't find a set like this from Yukon.

Its about $1500 for parts once you figure in fluids and shop expendables. Granted the gear and bearing kits will range in price based on quality and what's included. Then its about 8 hours shop time. If you budget $2500 then you will be safe no matter what. Im sure it could come out closer $1800 based on the kit you linked.

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Damn, idaho isnt the only place that fords are high priced. I just got my 2019 Denali for $55k. Granted more miles, but still. They did have a limited about the same as that for $63k.

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I’m going to go look it over this week. With it being a Toyota dealership.. Assume they put a higher tag to say well look what you can get in this new Yota.. for the same or less.
I’m guessing it’s deleted also.

The Ford dealership is actually across the street basically. I would think with this being the world of dealerships they should be pretty competitive.
 
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I’m going to go look it over this week. With it being a Toyota dealership.. Assume they put a higher tag to say well look what you can get in this new Yota.. for the same or less.
I’m guessing it’s deleted also.

The Ford dealership is actually across the street basically. I would think with this being the world of dealerships they should be pretty competitive.
Ya hard to tell on being deleted, but im guessing not given the banks monitor. I wouldnt think anyone would get that if they had tuning from someone for a delete. I would run a cts3. They had the Denali listed cheaper than any gm dealership around. The salesman said it was because being a ford dealer not everyone is coming in looking for a GM there.

I kinda wish i would have ponied up the extra cash for that limited. I probably could have focused on other improvements on the truck. This Denali has a little play in the wheel. Worn pitman and idler, typical GM stuff. I just dropped $1500 on a full steering upgrade and another $1000 on traction bars and an intake. Tuning is expensive for this l5p. $1200 for ecm and tcm, and that's not including $600 for the hp tuners credits.

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Its about $1500 for parts once you figure in fluids and shop expendables. Granted the gear and bearing kits will range in price based on quality and what's included. Then its about 8 hours shop time. If you budget $2500 then you will be safe no matter what. Im sure it could come out closer $1800 based on the kit you linked.

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Thanks, would it be about 8 hours per axle being 16 hours total? The "estimates" I got ranged from $4-5,000 which I thought was way to high, I was figuring around $3,000 as that's about what it was when I was looking at doing the gears in my F-150 but that was also 5 or 6 years ago and an F-150 so things may be different lol.
 

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Tuning is expensive for this l5p. $1200 for ecm and tcm, and that's not including $600 for the hp tuners credits.

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I heard that you have to send the ECM in to get it unlocked, and that means downtime.


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Thanks, would it be about 8 hours per axle being 16 hours total? The "estimates" I got ranged from $4-5,000 which I thought was way to high, I was figuring around $3,000 as that's about what it was when I was looking at doing the gears in my F-150 but that was also 5 or 6 years ago and an F-150 so things may be different lol.
8hrs for the pair. It shouldn't take as long for the rear as the front since there isnt as much to take apart. I could be off on the time as i havent done a set of super duty axles. A corporate 14 and a Dana 60 in a GM isnt much different though. Even at 16hrs i wouldnt think it should run over $3k.

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I heard that you have to send the ECM in to get it unlocked, and that means downtime.


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Yes thats the other thing. Another $650 for the ecm and $200 for the tcm. The only thing i dont have to buy is the hp tuners mpvi2 as my buddy is getting one. $2650 for 2 tunes all said and done. Lets just say its gonna be a bit before i bite the bullet on that. I still have stuff to buy for the 04 once my cam gets here and we tear into it. Been waiting 6 weeks for some reason. That reminds me, i need to call kdd tomorrow and see whats up.

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