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Time to build another one

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I am sick to my stomach.
Time for a new chapter. You had the experience with the 6.0. Time to move on. We will still welcome you.
You are going to love the Macan it’s what I wanted for a DD before S4 but could not afford it.
 
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Thanks, so if it was a pain for you, with my luck it'll be twice as troublesome. At least I'll get to try out my new cordless ratchet

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You could try to put the boots on the truck, first, as a way to hold them in place. But, I find it easier to put them on the pipes and wiggle them on.

Haha, I doubt it will be that bad for you. Remember not to clamp those down too tight or you will snap them, pretty easy to do with that cordless, or by hand for that matter. I think they only require something like 14 ft lbs.

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Time for a new chapter. You had the experience with the 6.0. Time to move on. We will still welcome you.
You are going to love the Macan it’s what I wanted for a DD before S4 but could not afford it.
I recently looked a Macan, but reminds me too much of my Mercedes that I just sold... I say no thanks to the maintenance costs, I'd rather drive a Lexus.

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You could try to put the boots on the truck, first, as a way to hold them in place. But, I find it easier to put them on the pipes and wiggle them on.

Haha, I doubt it will be that bad for you. Remember not to clamp those down too tight or you will snap them, pretty easy to do with that cordless, or by hand for that matter. I think they only require something like 14 ft lbs.

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I felt I had the new clamp I put on the old boots pretty snug on there....I'll probably just use the ratchet to remove the old ones then start the new ones.

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Thanks, so if it was a pain for you, with my luck it'll be twice as troublesome. At least I'll get to try out my new cordless ratchet

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As, should be, normal; remove anything that might be in the way, remove the old boots and pipe. Clean the pipe up with something that's not slick (ie don't use soap) like sand paper. Slide the lower boot onto the intercooler, slide both clamps onto the boot. Next, slide the CAC pipe into the boot, you'll struggle a little bit, but be patient and make sure the boot is outside the pipe all the way around and the pipe is pushed into the boot all the way to bottom, this is for ease of getting the upper boot on. Set the clamps (sort of) close to where they should be and tighten just enough to keep them from sliding around, but loose enough that you can still move the pipe, make sure you can get to the clamp nuts with a long extension, this is for access when it's time to tighten. You should be able to visually see the nut side of the clamps, if not, flip them over. I can get to my lower clamps by just looking down to where they are at (I think the nut side is outward (towards the fender) on both clamps). Next, slide the boot onto the upper side of the CAC tube. Again put both clamps on, making sure you can access the nut (should be on top of the assembly), flip and flop as needed for proper alignment. Leaving the clamps loose, fit the boot to the turbo. Now, since nothing is tight, you can slide, twist and otherwise manipulate the boots and tube for proper alignment, you'll need to move the CAC pipe towards the turbo, because you had it set at "bottom". Once everything is aligned, tighten the clamps from turbo, working your way down to the cooler. Shouldn't take more than 30 minutes, taking you time to make sure everything is aligned well. Put anything you had to take off, back on. Using a torque wrench is a good idea. I run mine tight with an electric impact drill, but just to the first click or two, then torque to spec.
 

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I don't have a small torque wrench. If I did wouldn't using extensions to reach the nuts reduce saod torque setting?

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@j.flow I think you did the right thing, for you.

I can recall many posts over the years where you when you were not happy with your truck. Some posts were down-right angry. Serious 6.0 hate. In one way or another, we've all been there. And likely, will be again, given a long enough time.

I'd disappear from the forums for a while and come back to see you in the 6.0 section posting with your truck and would think, "He's STILL here?!?" haha. I mean that with nothing but love because I know the game.

I have a 6.7 but I daily drive my 6.0. Nothing compares to me. The 6.7 comes out when going racing and the crew wants to ride in High Society. The sound, rumble, feel of the 6.0 "has me". Hook, line, and sinker. Pre-emissions, for the most part, and looking better and better in the eyes of a lot of people who want a mostly modern truck without all of the BS.

Regardless of what you end up in, I hope you continue posting in the 6.0 area. I don't venture outside of here often but I enjoy your posts.

The feeling in your stomach will pass. We've all been there before. Like I tell my friends who find themselves in similar situations, "They made millions of them...". If you ever want to get back into the game, it'll happen.
 

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I don't have a small torque wrench. If I did wouldn't using extensions to reach the nuts reduce saod torque setting?

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No, the torque would be the same as the torque is not effected by the amount or length of extension.

I think that is a commonly asked question, though.
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i used to use tight is right to tight is broken on boots until I popped one off lol and when i did put an in lbs wrench on them they were all way too loose I guess I am calibrated 30-150 ft lbs no in lbs lol
 

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I get em' good and tight. I had a small torque wrench at work, but last time I went to use it realized it was broken

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Hey all,

So im getting ready to do a bunch of maintenance on the cooling system and want your advice on stuff to do while im in there and any tools i should buy to make my life easier.



Additionally ill be replacing the 8 glow plugs. ( should i get the GP Harness or is that wasted $ ), air filter with OEM.
get the OEM harness and do this job by removing the fender liners not from above IMO
also make sure you have a good GP boot removal tool not so much for the old ones but in case you need to pull the new ones for any reason
 

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I think it was well covered but pull the air box out start at the bottom, ie: intercooler lube with hair spray the move fast to slide the boot on. You can feel the hair spray dry and it glue in place most times then lube the pipe slide it in and get it to.position. again once hair spray dries tighten the clamps and you can move it to get the upper connection pretty easily without worry on the bottom boot.
I believe 14# is right but on my phone I have no way to look it up. I used to use a 1/4 drive to help.not over torque it but that Milwaukee ratchet is too nice to not use. Just don't over run it. You can feel when it's tight. Listen to tour self and don't second guess and tighten "Just a little more to be sure". :D
On the water pump. I fought mine for 2 weeks finally put a torch on it and a couple cheater bars. Boom all done.
I just got my aluminum radiator, so I may be pulling mine apart again before too long but not while I am still waiting for another evacuation order. So I am sitting right for now not even playing with the damn half done wiring for the kc,s or light bar. Keeping it ready to go at a moment's notice.
@j.flow sad day indeed. Didn't think you would actually go through with it this time

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california deplorable
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get the OEM harness and do this job by removing the fender liners not from above IMO
also make sure you have a good GP boot removal tool not so much for the old ones but in case you need to pull the new ones for any reason
This....
And back to the boots
By had their 1/4" torque wrench on sale for 14 buck's a couple weeks ago when I was in there. I personally have had great luck with pitsberg tools.
Ok computer dead gotta try to find fire info. Talk later

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