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Here is where my lack of technical terms and knowledge shine lol. I think I may have found my vibration issue but I need someone with more knowledge to tell me if this is normal or not.

Since I've replaced everything that makes sense to cause this vibration (minus tie rods), got an alignment and new tires, I'm wandering if it's a drive shaft issue. My U-joints are tight, no movement at the diff or the trans, however in the middle where the 2 drive shaft pieces connect (I believe it's called the carrier bearing?) I can move it very easily. Is it supposed to move or is it supposed to be solid? I know it's supposed to spin, but I can grab it with 1 hand and shake it around. The rubber piece does have some cracks in it and looks pretty old so I'm hoping it needs to be replaced and that will solve my issue lol. Can anyone confirm that there's not supposed to be any movement at the carrier bearing?

If I do need a new bearing, (and here's where my idiocy REALLY shines), do I need the stock one or is there one for lifted trucks? I'm 99% sure there's no such thing as a bigger one for lifted trucks lol but I have to ask. Also what brand should I get?
 
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When I lifted my truck I shimmed my carrier bearing down some with a kit from Rancho or some one. I don’t think there is different/drop one maybe a beefier bearing but I think they all use shimms to achieve the desired angle. Shimms helped a little bit, the biggest issue I had was axle wrap I made some traction bars and it’s good now. Hope that helps


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Ehhh...put 'er on a anvil and beat it back straight :D

-jokester
 
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Jb weld and itll be fine


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I broke a rocker shaft in a 410 (stroked 390) I built for my 72 F250 about 20 years ago and two of the pushrods ended up looking like Nazi SS bolts.
 
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Here is where my lack of technical terms and knowledge shine lol. I think I may have found my vibration issue but I need someone with more knowledge to tell me if this is normal or not.

Since I've replaced everything that makes sense to cause this vibration (minus tie rods), got an alignment and new tires, I'm wandering if it's a drive shaft issue. My U-joints are tight, no movement at the diff or the trans, however in the middle where the 2 drive shaft pieces connect (I believe it's called the carrier bearing?) I can move it very easily. Is it supposed to move or is it supposed to be solid? I know it's supposed to spin, but I can grab it with 1 hand and shake it around. The rubber piece does have some cracks in it and looks pretty old so I'm hoping it needs to be replaced and that will solve my issue lol. Can anyone confirm that there's not supposed to be any movement at the carrier bearing?

If I do need a new bearing, (and here's where my idiocy REALLY shines), do I need the stock one or is there one for lifted trucks? I'm 99% sure there's no such thing as a bigger one for lifted trucks lol but I have to ask. Also what brand should I get?
granted only went 4" with my BDS lift cause i figure its already a top heavy truck but lift came with shims for the carrier bearing.
sounds like you could use a new one. not sure if any brand is better than others.
typically OEM is the way to go but ...
 
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granted only went 4" with my BDS lift cause i figure its already a top heavy truck but lift came with shims for the carrier bearing.
sounds like you could use a new one. not sure if any brand is better than others.
typically OEM is the way to go but ...
Thanks I compared my truck with a lot of pictures and videos and it looks like there's a drop bracket for the bearing so that makes more sense to me. I'm still not sure if I'll be doing it or having a shop do it, I looked it up and it looks fairly straight forward but that 33mm nut people have reported being and issue and stripping the threads since it's a pinch nut and I'm not sure if I want to deal with that lol.

I gave up on Hypertech. I tried the inline speedometer calibrator and it wouldn't work no matter what I did. I called them up they walked me through it to assure I didn't do anything wrong and it still didn't work so I returned it. I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet, I've tried the Ford dealer, they couldn't do anything, the Powerstroke specialist mechanic I usually go to couldn't do anything about it, so I don't know if I'll order the Insight CTS 3 or do more research on other monitors. I really don't want to spend $400 just to see my accurate speed in a different corner of my truck but this is getting pretty annoying.
 

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Here is where my lack of technical terms and knowledge shine lol. I think I may have found my vibration issue but I need someone with more knowledge to tell me if this is normal or not.

Since I've replaced everything that makes sense to cause this vibration (minus tie rods), got an alignment and new tires, I'm wandering if it's a drive shaft issue. My U-joints are tight, no movement at the diff or the trans, however in the middle where the 2 drive shaft pieces connect (I believe it's called the carrier bearing?) I can move it very easily. Is it supposed to move or is it supposed to be solid? I know it's supposed to spin, but I can grab it with 1 hand and shake it around. The rubber piece does have some cracks in it and looks pretty old so I'm hoping it needs to be replaced and that will solve my issue lol. Can anyone confirm that there's not supposed to be any movement at the carrier bearing?

If I do need a new bearing, (and here's where my idiocy REALLY shines), do I need the stock one or is there one for lifted trucks? I'm 99% sure there's no such thing as a bigger one for lifted trucks lol but I have to ask. Also what brand should I get?
Go get yourself a one piece driveline made for about 600 bucks and eliminate the problem forever and thank yourself.

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Thanks I compared my truck with a lot of pictures and videos and it looks like there's a drop bracket for the bearing so that makes more sense to me. I'm still not sure if I'll be doing it or having a shop do it, I looked it up and it looks fairly straight forward but that 33mm nut people have reported being and issue and stripping the threads since it's a pinch nut and I'm not sure if I want to deal with that lol.

I gave up on Hypertech. I tried the inline speedometer calibrator and it wouldn't work no matter what I did. I called them up they walked me through it to assure I didn't do anything wrong and it still didn't work so I returned it. I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet, I've tried the Ford dealer, they couldn't do anything, the Powerstroke specialist mechanic I usually go to couldn't do anything about it, so I don't know if I'll order the Insight CTS 3 or do more research on other monitors. I really don't want to spend $400 just to see my accurate speed in a different corner of my truck but this is getting pretty annoying.
i remember someone saying forescan could do it but talk to them before you buy there was a free version but by the time i got all the parts in the mail well actually just the dongle the computer i had died so i never got anywhere with it. i have gps and the stereo dis[kays accurate speed. but mine is also only about 3 off at 70 so...
 

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anyone run the valvoline ble diesel 5-40 oil?
i always liked valvoline and got a good deal on some but after i got a like on an old post in an older oil thread...
it got me wondering
does that stuff meet the cj4 rating? or does anyone know if a zddp additive is called for with it?
lso
here is a good price if anyone wants it
truck seems to like it fine runs snooth and no obvious trouble with it
ao...
 

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anyone run the valvoline ble diesel 5-40 oil?
i always liked valvoline and got a good deal on some but after i got a like on an old post in an older oil thread...
it got me wondering
does that stuff meet the cj4 rating? or does anyone know if a zddp additive is called for with it?
lso
here is a good price if anyone wants it
truck seems to like it fine runs snooth and no obvious trouble with it
ao...
I run it in both the 6.0 and the 6.7 since they changed stopped making the Delo LE I used. I like it. 280k on the 6.0 injectors and they're spitting the right amount of fuel.
 

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I believe I heard that fireworks were stored close to the ammonium nitrate storage and an accident at the fireworks storage warehouse set off the ammonium nitrate. It probably actually started at the warehouse where they stored the matches and lighters next to the fireworks storage warehouse.....
BTL
Talk about a recipe for disaster. Seriously, this reminds me of when Looney Tunes references the ACME company in it's cartoons. It's almost unbeleivable! Who in their right mind would store that much ammonium nitrate next to a firework factory. This goes beyond stupidity. It's safe to say OSHA rules don't apply on that side of the world. It should have NEVER happened. That country was already suffering financially and now it's major port has been leveled. It will be a long, long road to recovery.
 

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Go get yourself a one piece driveline made for about 600 bucks and eliminate the problem forever and thank yourself.

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I'm definitely not opposed, where would be a good place to get one? I've seen a few online but not sure what everyone recommends, still need to figure out all the measurements.
 

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Less lag and better response? Notice any mileage difference?

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havent really driven it enough to know yet.
i think i need to pull the turbo and clean it up to give it a really fair estimation.
but it seems to work pretty good and i think i like it :D

I run it in both the 6.0 and the 6.7 since they changed stopped making the Delo LE I used. I like it. 280k on the 6.0 injectors and they're spitting the right amount of fuel.
ahhh i was running the delo also and was kinda stuck when they stopped making it.
truck like mobil one but its too damn pricey for me ...
went with the blue on sale but i havent seen any tech sheets on it. thought i remembered someone saying they were running it with good results and i have been a fan of valvoline since i was a kid helping my dad in the garage. so i gave it a shot.
truck has sat for longer than i would like but after getting it out on the highway and letting it run for a bit it seems real smooth and nice.
i am also putting a theory i have had for years to the test
i believe archoil is a superior product, it seems everyone who begins to develop stiction with archoil or re v x who switches to the other it cleans up.
well after taking my sweet arse time working on the truck it sat long enough to show some stiction and i found a good deal on rev x and made the switch and it is cleaning up nicely. so ... i stand by theory that using one works wonders but if it does start to gunk up switching will clean it out nicely.

anyway combo of rev x and blue seems to be working great but i cant find a tech sheet for it so far to know if i need to add rislone dppz or???
 

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@john galt Premium Blue is on Fords approved list.
 
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So i bought the truck not running for cheap cheap its an 02/04 year said the low pressure oil pump went so im new to 6.0 didnt think it would be bad to get it up and running so i replaced the lpop and front cover i have base oil pressure now but wont fire up so i went and got a scanguage2 icp reads max of 30 when cranking Also icp volts are .24 koeo and dont climb at all while cranking i know i seen needs .8 to start i have 48v to ficm and its synced and ipr is 14.8 koeo while cranking shoots straight up to 84.8 and tomorrow my fitting comes in to screw into the icp port any ideas i can start more on before i dig into the top of the motor ipr screen looks good and valve inside thanks if anyone has time to reply
 

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An air test is your next step. You could remove the valve covers and get ready for the test. That's about it

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can you snag a picture of what the hpop cover is? wonder if the ball fell out of the side of the pump
 
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