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6.0 Chat Thread

2375858 Views 43663 Replies 371 Participants Last post by  john galt
Alright, since nobody else has done it yet, I guess it's up to me to start this one. That way we can get back to "on topic" in the "what did you do" thread :lol: No topics in particular required.........if it doesn't take off I'll kill it, otherwise I figure it may help wrangle in a couple of the other threads. Up to you guys though.

So there's the awkward start haha.....
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Mud and slop all fall and winter here in Southern Indiana -- 17f this morning and so far looks like that is gonna be the temps for a few days -- looking forward to not having to feed in the mud, but there are still the ruts
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Should be able to sit at least a month without problems, if longer, just pop the grounds

Need to measure the individual battery voltages after they have been disconnected for like a week -- one "bad" battery will run the whole pack down when hooked in parallel like these trucks
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Getting the stab is your choice, but we (the government) will be forced to restrict your access to trade, to healthcare, to travel, to a job, etc. We do not want to do this, but you leave us no choice.

Remember this will all go away if you just comply. Compliance will be rewarded.
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But remember - it's still your choice...🙄

-jokester
Was being sarcastic -- also lookup HYDRA the nemesis of SHIELD for the compliance reference

But you are right, ...it is my choice
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Ya know that sign on the back of my truck that says "Stay back 200 feet" -- there for a reason ;)
Not saying that's what happened, just bringing up the point -- because I have had vehicles I could barely see in my mirrors lots of times
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citiots never understood them...never will
Think I have learned a new to me word, ...very applicable term
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That is clearly a Citiot track -- c'mon guys
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Something like these and have the eyelet ends crimped onto some good cable
I like welder cable, tho it is expensive

or these
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Also most big truck shops make their own -- long as you provide measurements
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Gotta love them FernCo couplings, ...they can adapt most any plumbing problem

The wye has a female coupler on both ends - you can see in the pic on the left he went over the larger part (the wye) to the iron pipe
and on the right he added a short section of plastic pipe, then adapted to the iron
the couplers are on correctly -- clamps are fine, they are stainless

Why was that section added? The iron broken?
-if not- I think it would have easier to add a saddle to the outside of the iron pipe
but then I was not there
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1.5 is fine for vanity and bath drain -- gotta love the "code guys" changing up just because they can
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Do they have a spherical thread?
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if i still had even one i would be able to tell you.
everything was fine i started getting a vibration turned around from the hwy to go home and figure out what was up and dropped the front driveshaft on the way...no tools to pull the u joint from the diff so 1.5 mph home from the hwy took 2 hours
i am thinking that they are likely the same as the ones on the rear flange to the diff on the rear drive shaft but...
9 years i negver checked those bolt or even thought about them...
oops :tard:
I hope you get that I was being a smart a$$ -- I do not know the size of the bolts, and I agree likely the same as the rear flange -- which you need to check, hear more about those working loose than the front.

Just getting thru the end (I hope) of a little over a week and a half, with the communist virus, so still a little punchy and foggy at the same time. Dang this stuff likes to hang on. Still having coughing fits.
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Had the l-lysine, C, and B complex in my arsenal already, so had the stuff on hand to take --picked up some D and Zinc -- also some LA-200 for three goes made a real difference (not for virus, but side complications)

Any bolts you have will do for a short run -- the yoke is piloted in the center, so the bolts only hold the thing from rotating -- which should only be idling anyways (unlocked)
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Just crawled under my '06 to look at the bolts -- they thread into the yoke from the t-case side and have a 12 point head

Warmed up today from the mid 20's and is raining out there now - yay -- more mud and slop in the feed lot
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A small loop of monofilament fishing line -- wet it in your mouth and you can drag that over the white part of your eye -- sometimes coax the junk to the corner where you can get it out -- works a lot better than a big sausage finger -- I keep 6 or 8 pound test smooth line in my tool box just for those occasions -- dont want to rub around or you may embed any sharp junk -- so wash and use the line -- and a pocket screw driver with the Neo magnet can also get a rust particle
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Nice tool

Also next time any you guys mash a finger, use an orifice drill to relieve the pressure next to the cuticle -- no more black fingernails

Something like this -- I got mine from the guy that brings our cutting gas supplies

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Gotta drill the hole while the finger is still throbbing -- chuck the smallest bit with just enough sticking out to go thru -- you wont feel a thing

I tried using a hot object a couple of times (gotta use what you have on hand) and the drill set stays in my tool box -- both at the shop and in my truck
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Once you have drilled the finger nail to relieve the throbbing pain -- you will not hesitate the next time it happens

Getting old enough now to not care about feelings, only what makes me comfortable ;)
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These also work for the eye ball loop -- you can get them at any drug store

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