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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,
I have a very strange issue going on with my 6.0 that I need some help with. Let me start from the beginning.
A few months back I started having a misfire issue with no codes so I decided to go ahead and re-seal injectors. I was in a time crunch since this is my daily driver so I figured I would do one bank at a time. I started with the easier driver side. Finished it and it actually seemed to get rid of the misfire so I decided to leave it alone. Well was driving home from work and it started running very rough and went into limp mode and would not accelerate, so I got off the freeway and was pulling into a gas station when it died. I had my laptop with FORScan on it so I pulled codes and checked everything out, no codes, all voltages seemed to be good with ficm so I tried to start it. Cranked it for about 3 seconds and there was a huge cloud of white smoke so I stopped. Tried it again and no dice would not turn over. Hydrolocked. Had it towed home pulled the glow plugs got it to turn over and started to pull the driver side injectors. Found 3 of them with soot all the way up to the top fuel seal. Decided they were probably toast at this point so I ordered 8 injectors and was just going to start over. Here is where it gets weird...
All 8 new injectors, starts and runs fine for about 30 minutes then starts to run rough again. Pulled codes and shows contribution balance on 3 and 6. Ok didn’t get all the oil out of the hold down bolt hole so I pull 3 and 6 injector, no signs of gasses passing copper washer so I re-seal them blow out the hole and put them back in. Take it for a run, runs great for 30 minutes and then starts missing again. This time it shows 3 and 5 codes. So with it hot I pulled it apart again (gotten so good at it at this point I can have it down to injectors in an hour) and retorqued all 8 injectors. Upon doing so I found that the little ball on cylinder 1 intake rocker arms is missing... luckily it was sitting right next to it. Order a new rocker arm and put it in, pulled the push rod and it’s straight as an arrow so I put it all back together and fire it back up. Runs amazing! For a week this time...
Pull codes and now it is showing contribution balance on 6. Take it to the ford house, ( I know the service manager) hook it up to ids and run tests and even with the code on 6 it passes with flying colors... even cylinder 6...
Take it home and it’s misfiring like crazy, shut it down let it sit for 3 seconds start it back up and it is running smooth again at idle but as soon as I hit the high idle switch it starts misfiring like crazy.
So hook FORScan back up and start shutting injectors down trying to find which one is causing the issue to be sure. Found that when I shut 5 and 6 down there was no difference in the way it misfires and no difference when they are turned back on. Shut it off and back on and idles smooth again.
Here is where it gets weird... while it is idling fine I decided to shut down one of the injectors I know is running great cylinder 1, when I do so it starts running rough which is expected but when I turn it back on the rough running continues as if once it detects a misfire it will not recover from it, shut it off and back on and it goes away until I hit the high idle switch.
I am stumped and am tired of tearing this thing apart.
HELP!!
Also all pressures/voltages are good (fuel @ 63psi, oil @ 20psi/ [email protected])

sorry for the long post but wanted to make sure I got the whole story.
 

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Hey guys,
I have a very strange issue going on with my 6.0 that I need some help with. Let me start from the beginning.
A few months back I started having a misfire issue with no codes so I decided to go ahead and re-seal injectors. I was in a time crunch since this is my daily driver so I figured I would do one bank at a time. I started with the easier driver side. Finished it and it actually seemed to get rid of the misfire so I decided to leave it alone. Well was driving home from work and it started running very rough and went into limp mode and would not accelerate, so I got off the freeway and was pulling into a gas station when it died. I had my laptop with FORScan on it so I pulled codes and checked everything out, no codes, all voltages seemed to be good with ficm so I tried to start it. Cranked it for about 3 seconds and there was a huge cloud of white smoke so I stopped. Tried it again and no dice would not turn over. Hydrolocked. Had it towed home pulled the glow plugs got it to turn over and started to pull the driver side injectors. Found 3 of them with soot all the way up to the top fuel seal. Decided they were probably toast at this point so I ordered 8 injectors and was just going to start over. Here is where it gets weird...
All 8 new injectors, starts and runs fine for about 30 minutes then starts to run rough again. Pulled codes and shows contribution balance on 3 and 6. Ok didn’t get all the oil out of the hold down bolt hole so I pull 3 and 6 injector, no signs of gasses passing copper washer so I re-seal them blow out the hole and put them back in. Take it for a run, runs great for 30 minutes and then starts missing again. This time it shows 3 and 5 codes. So with it hot I pulled it apart again (gotten so good at it at this point I can have it down to injectors in an hour) and retorqued all 8 injectors. Upon doing so I found that the little ball on cylinder 1 intake rocker arms is missing... luckily it was sitting right next to it. Order a new rocker arm and put it in, pulled the push rod and it’s straight as an arrow so I put it all back together and fire it back up. Runs amazing! For a week this time...
Pull codes and now it is showing contribution balance on 6. Take it to the ford house, ( I know the service manager) hook it up to ids and run tests and even with the code on 6 it passes with flying colors... even cylinder 6...
Take it home and it’s misfiring like crazy, shut it down let it sit for 3 seconds start it back up and it is running smooth again at idle but as soon as I hit the high idle switch it starts misfiring like crazy.
So hook FORScan back up and start shutting injectors down trying to find which one is causing the issue to be sure. Found that when I shut 5 and 6 down there was no difference in the way it misfires and no difference when they are turned back on. Shut it off and back on and idles smooth again.
Here is where it gets weird... while it is idling fine I decided to shut down one of the injectors I know is running great cylinder 1, when I do so it starts running rough which is expected but when I turn it back on the rough running continues as if once it detects a misfire it will not recover from it, shut it off and back on and it goes away until I hit the high idle switch.
I am stumped and am tired of tearing this thing apart.
HELP!!
Also all pressures/voltages are good (fuel @ 63psi, oil @ 20psi/ [email protected])

sorry for the long post but wanted to make sure I got the whole story.
What's the icp voltage @ when it's idling rough

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
What's the icp voltage @ when it's idling rough

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Icp is steady around .82-.88v
Icp pressure is within 6psi of desired at about 580(fluctuates between 580-590)
Ipr is steady at 23%
Here is what is a bit confusing after digging a bit further... when it’s idling good the IPW bounces around from .81 to 2.24, when it idles like garbage and misses the IPW stays steady at 1.4...
Tell me if I’m thinking of this right... bad injector... because with the IPW bouncing around it’s compensating for the bad cylinder and then once it stops compensating it stays steady pulse width and runs like crap??
why does it stop compensating?
pull injector 6 and replace. Got injectors from Tamerx, they have already warrantied 1 so send that one back too?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Low fuel pressure will cause misfires and contribution codes. Are you monitoring fuel pressure.?
Fuel pressure is steady at 63 psi. I have a gauge and it never drops below 58 at WOT
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What's the icp voltage @ when it's idling rough

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this is the data log from 193 seconds of idle.
let me know if you can’t read what the PIDs are and I’ll name them from top down.
770285
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What's the icp voltage @ when it's idling rough

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I should also add... that is 193 seconds of a smooth idle. Prior to this it was rough, I shut it off started it up and it smoothed out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Aftermarket injectors are a crap shoot at best .........
Am I on the right path though thinking it could just be an injector?
 

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Are you running a tune?
Is your oil level good (not too high and not too low)? No fuel smell to it?
Do you have access to a known good FICM?

It does seem to be related to the injectors, but it also could be an issue with the "controls".
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Are you running a tune?
Is your oil level good (not too high and not too low)? No fuel smell to it?
Do you have access to a known good FICM?

It does seem to be related to the injectors, but it also could be an issue with the "controls".
I pulled the tune off of it before I did injectors so they could have a chance to be on the stock file and “break in” per say. So no, no tune on the truck.
Oil level is between the hash marks and does not smell like fuel.
I was thinking the same thing on the ficm because it stops the “compensation” but would that cause just 1 to act up? Doesn’t the 04+ ficm have control over the entire bank of injectors instead of just one now?
Unfortunately I do not have access to a known good ficm, and the problem is it’s my daily driver so it would be very hard for me to send off to ficmrepair.com and be without it.
 

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Each individual injector is controlled with four driver outputs from the FICM. There are high and low side drivers for the open and close coil of each injector.

On 2004.25+ (1845117C2 FICMs), the low side driver (and only the low side driver) is actually shared among 4 injectors. This means a single injector short to ground on the low side could produce four different cylinder error codes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
What State/area are you in? Maybe someone lives close by that has a spare FICM.
That makes sense on the ficm and I’m not getting any short to ground DTC.
I am in Austin TX, so ya if anyone had an extra known good ficm that would be great.
Would it be safe to say that the injector is probably faulty and safe to tear into it and replace that one? And then see what happens from there? I do want to do the bubble test on it tonight to see if I’m getting any compression past the injector. I have had hell with getting those things to seal properly. That copper washer does not want to go on right but I found out that you can take a 9mm socket and slide it on and it doesn’t bend it and lays it perfectly flat.
 

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Definitely do the bubble test first!

It seems like it is an injector issue, but I sure wouldn't say the testing shows conclusive proof! Are you re-using the copper washers?

Which cylinder(s) had the fuel in them when you had the hydrolock?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I will let you know results of that tonight.
I am not reusing any seals what so ever. Any time any injector comes out it gets resealed with Motorcraft kit including copper washer. I will say this... before I found out about the socket trick to push the copper washer on, I was putting them on by hand and they were most likely not completely flat, but I would think they would crush and lay flat.
Cylinder 2 and 4 had fuel in them. When I pulled the glow plug and cranked there was just vapors coming out, it didn’t shoot fuel across the garage as most experience.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Probably a long shot, but keep an eye on your v-reference voltage also.
10-4 will do. I will post on bubble test tonight, anything else you could think of to check or keep an eye on?
 

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this is the data log from 193 seconds of idle.
let me know if you can’t read what the PIDs are and I’ll name them from top down.
View attachment 770285
Sorry for slow response - working way to much. Those numbers look normal compared to mine. I think @bismic has you on the correct path

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