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Discussion Starter #1
im replacing the TC in my excursion, 4r100 with 126k. I bought one form Racer X, the eagle 6 stud. i am trying to seat it, its dropped down but the hub is sticking out about a 16th past the transmission bell housing. Ive been pushing and turning on this for an hr and it wont go anymore or am I doing something wrong? i bolted it up once thinking that was just it, but it touches the flex plate as soon as the bell housing is drawn to the block.... I was told the hib should be about 1/4" below the edge of the bell housing and it shouldn't touch the flex plate
 

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Did you put a straight edge across the bellhousing with the old TC in to compare to?

What's important is, once the engine & trans are mated, is that you can turn the TC free of the flexplate. If you can do that, then the TC is fully engaged into the pump. If not then you're not fully "in".

Do you have the old TC still? Can you compare the size of those engagement notches and length of the hub? (lay them both on their faces and measure the overall hight)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i could not turn it freely.
I have it, but its boxed up and the trans isnt dropped all the way, I just backed it up a bit to try and turn and push some more.

and yes, with a straight edge,
just barely not flush
 

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Discussion Starter #4
i also changed the input shaft, but he said it will only fir one way and it fit right inside the trans
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i pulled the trans again, I can get the old TC to seat, but the new one sits up just a bit more. they look the same size....
 

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Discussion Starter #6
and I cant get the new input shaft out. it just slid in and out before i put the new TC on
 

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I wouldn't worry about the input shaft. You're only 3/8ths of an inch or less out from seating as you describe. If this were the wrong spline on the input it would be out much farther I'd think (plus, the old TC would have a problem with it). This sounds like a problem with the new TC.

Look very carefully at the new ones Hub and compare it to the old one. I can't think it could be anything else...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
i tried to measure the tolerances etc. it actually seems the old one in a hair taller, tho I dont know on what side it is. the only difference i see is on the old there is a shoulder at the bottom of the hub and then the weld, the new one looks liek the weld is right at the shoulder. The hub on the old one also has a beveled edge both inside and out and the new one just the outside... Ill try to take some pictures and post, but Im at my wits end..
 

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Discussion Starter #9
the blue one is the new one
 

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Discussion Starter #10
that shoulder at the bottom of the hub has really got my eye now i dont know what else it could be
 

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Discussion Starter #11
either that or maybe a pump issue idk....
 

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Discussion Starter #12
or there is a pump issue, idk....
 

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Discussion Starter #13
so i measured the inside and the new one isnt as deep I put a screw driver in the old one and grabbed it with a pair of pliers level with the hub and then put in the new one and I can see there is ~.5" difference
 

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Got a Micrometer? I would measure the flats, it is those that engage the pump and are what you're aligning as you spin it. Are they the same distance apart? Is there a "taper" on the new one that gets wider as you go down maybe?

That 1/2" is interesting, did you ever compare the overall length of the old & new input shafts?

You might have to wait until Monday to call Racer X... :(
 

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Lay both TC's with the snout facing up and resting on the mounting pads(use blocks of some sort) -- make a U shaped bridge that fits over the TC, so you can take measurements from the bridge down to the TC

Measure the distance to each snout, the internal large spline and the internal small spline -- measure also the distance from the bottom of the TC pilot guide to the bench -- next measure the diameter of the pilot guide

All the dimensions near the same?

As @NoRalPh mentioned a trial fit and straight edge across the transmission before you try to install

Try the old input shaft into both TC's, make a mark on the shaft to compare depth
 

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Discussion Starter #16
ill take some tomorrow, im done for the night. thx for the help guys
 

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Discussion Starter #17
RacerX did email back and say the distance isnt the issue but it looks liek my old hub is gouged where I thought it was a shoulder, Ill see what he says next
 

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I see what they're talking about, that there is some galling there and maybe the ft bushing might be keeping the new hub from passing that spot.

I'd think you could pull the ft pump and replace the bushing (you should be replacing the ft seal now anyway). Might not be a big deal...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
this is my 1st foray into a TC swap. I believed that was just a machined shoulder. it looks very uniform around the hub. I also never saw any metal, but I have an external canister filter. Ill see what he says. maybe my bushing is bad
 

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Discussion Starter #20
below is my reply from racer X. Ill talk to him tomorrow. is the pump a simple swap part?


Based on the photos, it looks like the old converter had excessive wear and end play, possibly it’s come apart inside. That would wear the pump and hammer it, possibly explaining the ding in the front of the pump shaft. It that’s a gouge in the hub, it’s been hammering against the pump inside, the photos look like it’s been hammering on the hub end too, the score marks are probably from excess end play or pump wear. If the converter is completely drained and doesn’t have enough ATF residue left inside that would provide a cushion, try shaking it and see if it rattles or you feel the internals move back and forth while shaking it. Has the transmission pan been removed and checked for metal particles?

We’ve covered as much as possible here, you’ll have to talk to the tech dept on Monday if possible, or have a tranny shop inspect it if possible.
 
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