Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum banner

1 - 20 of 110 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
251 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have been reading alot and am trying to figure out all i need to push this much out of this motor. Is my motor strong enough to hold up to this? I have a 1999.5 F250 supercab powerstroke 4x4 automatic with 86,000 miles. For mods so far all I have is a DP-Tuner chip from jody tuned with 80 tow no codes, 120 race no codes, and 140 aggressive no codes, straight pipe exhaust, aem dryflow intake, gauges, and the ccv mod, and im running 37" tires if that matters. What injectors, and turbo should I get and anyother mods yall think I need to do in order to meet my goal. Thanks in advance GARRETT
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
31,744 Posts
some stage II's and a garret gtp38r should get you there
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
31,744 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
366 Posts
Mike is right at 400hp on the dyno with Swamps 200 Hybrids and the GTP38R, regulated return, stock HPOP (2001 F350).

also, Jeremy hit 430 hp with B codes, van turbo, BTS dual HPOP, BTS tranny
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
366 Posts
How much horsepower do these '02 7.3Ls make stock?

What is their known threshold?
Stock is around 225 hp. 400 hp seems to be the mark most agree is safe with PMR engines (mid 2001-2003 7.3L PSD's).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,395 Posts
for 400+ hp you should go with some stage 3 hybrid injectors, GTP38R Garrett turbo, Jody's tuning, head studs, maybe some comp 910 valve springs, and definitely some tranny modifications. Don't worry about your HPOP unless your's is weak or you find that you have a problem once you install those modifications. Thats a 400hp combination EASILY, maybe even closer to 500 if you add some fuel system mods and everything is operating to its full potential.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
251 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the quick responses. I really wanna stay away from upgrading valve springs and head studs. Do yall think that my stock motor will hold up to me putting a GTP38r turbo, stage 2 or 3 injectors, water/meth injection, and getting my chip reburned to match up with those upgrades? Are the head studs and valve springs really necessary for all those upgrades? I will be getting a new built up tranny too to support this added power also. My goal is to try to safely push 400+ out of this motor without me having to worry too much about it blowing. GARRETT
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
20,359 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,534 Posts
if you plan on pulling or heavy towing id say definate yes to the studs, but if your just having fun with it, i wouldnt 100% say you need them, just kind of away to protect your money... 7.3s have a soild block... but what do i know lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,168 Posts
400hp... hybrids, 38r with a 1.15 housing and tranny...

Keep it wastegated to about 35# (leaving alot on the table without studs and valve springs but its your call...) and you should be at 400-425. Fuel system and supporting mods will get you closer to 500...

I did 467 with 40% meth, with the H2e, fuel system, and new tranny I should be about 490 on fuel alone.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
If you have PMR's, keep stock nozzles regardless of your injector choice.

I have terminators, 180cc singles, Garrett BB turbo, fuel system, etc.

That will get you there, and with a whole lot less of the BS people will tell you that you need. (like headstuds...)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
959 Posts
I'd pretty much agree with what Joe said. Hybrids, good chip, and a drop in turbo. Either the 38R or the TNBB. From what I'm hearing the TNBB will have less issues with surge at that level.

Stage IIIs are typically considered hybrids in which you do NOT need an oil system for. They actually use less oil than your stock injectors. Bang for the buck an oil system is a waste of money with hybrids IMHO. If you plan to go with bigger injectors down the road such as B codes then get the oil and skip the hybrids for now.

Studs aren't going to be a 100% necessity but a good idea for some added insurance. They aren't cheap but they are well worth it when you consider having to pull a head to replace a gasket.

If you are running in the 30-35psi range in boost you shouldn't need to worry about the valve springs or head studs. If you start pushing it to 40 psi + then you're going to want to start addressing these things.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
959 Posts
If you have PMR's, keep stock nozzles regardless of your injector choice.
I have to dissagree with that as a blanket statement. Stage IIs should be fine and they have larger injectors. Also I would not build a set of hybrids with stock injectors. you will get less fuel out of them that way due to the lower injection ratio in the injectors.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
719 Posts
I'm heading the same route as your and will probably end up doing Stg III Hybrids from Rosewood, BTS trans, Garrett GTP38R, Spearco IC, Head studs and fuel system. My goal though is about 500 hp.

I would say head studs are a necessity (even thought they're "technically not"). It's just insurance so that you don't blow up your block. Yes there are some rigs that can handle higher hp with PMRs but do you really want to dump all that money in and find out the hard way? I say do the studs, get that ease of mind and focus on smoking your opponent :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
497 Posts
I'd pretty much agree with what Joe said. Hybrids, good chip, and a drop in turbo. Either the 38R or the TNBB. From what I'm hearing the TNBB will have less issues with surge at that level.

Stage IIIs are typically considered hybrids in which you do NOT need an oil system for. They actually use less oil than your stock injectors. Bang for the buck an oil system is a waste of money with hybrids IMHO. If you plan to go with bigger injectors down the road such as B codes then get the oil and skip the hybrids for now.

Studs aren't going to be a 100% necessity but a good idea for some added insurance. They aren't cheap but they are well worth it when you consider having to pull a head to replace a gasket.

If you are running in the 30-35psi range in boost you shouldn't need to worry about the valve springs or head studs. If you start pushing it to 40 psi + then you're going to want to start addressing these things.

UMMMM TN BB will no longer be sold, TN is dropping the Drop-in line of their turbos. so either go with Modded H2E or 38R
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,168 Posts
UMMMM TN BB will no longer be sold, TN is dropping the Drop-in line of their turbos. so either go with Modded H2E or 38R

Had to know you would drop that little bomb....:doh:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
959 Posts
UMMMM TN BB will no longer be sold, TN is dropping the Drop-in line of their turbos. so either go with Modded H2E or 38R
That makes more sense. I haddn't heard that but when I saw Joe telling someone to get a 38R I was like :Shocked:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,752 Posts
Thanks for the quick responses. I really wanna stay away from upgrading valve springs and head studs. Do yall think that my stock motor will hold up to me putting a GTP38r turbo, stage 2 or 3 injectors, water/meth injection, and getting my chip reburned to match up with those upgrades? Are the head studs and valve springs really necessary for all those upgrades? I will be getting a new built up tranny too to support this added power also. My goal is to try to safely push 400+ out of this motor without me having to worry too much about it blowing. GARRETT

I dyno'd right at 400 with Hybrid injectors (Mini Me's from DI), with GTP38R and the wastegate set at 30.

You really ought to add headstuds and valveprings... they really are not too hard to add with the motor in the truck...
 
1 - 20 of 110 Posts
Top