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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
There are hundreds of threads about 315's on stock wheels with leveling kits, but most are not specific and don't have pictures. Some say they fit fine, others say they will tear off your fenders and explode because the stock rims are only 7" wide (minimum recommended is 8"). Some get uneven wear and short tread life, others go 50,000 miles with no issues.

I am going to attempt to address some of the issues with pictures, measurements, and description (not opinions) so perhaps the next person can make a more informed decision than I did. This will also be a "real world" first impression review of the relatively new Mastercraft Courser AXT tires. I will also discuss the Pro Comp level leaf springs that I've had for about a year and a half now.

I recently took the chance and got some Mastercraft Courser AXT's put on my stock wheels (basically same as Cooper Discoverer AT). They cost $192 per tire, $845 after mount, balance, and tax. It seemed like 2011 prices but it's almost 2014, so I bought them. These are D rated for ~3200 pounds at 50 psi. The tires that were on there were Kelly Safari (Goodyear) 285/75R16 E rated at 80 psi. I have a Crew Cab Long Bed F350 automatic with the 7.3 diesel. It has the Dana 50 front axle instead of the Dana 60 (I believe the housings are the same so it doesn't make a difference in tire fitment). The leveling kit is the pro comp leaf spring replacements with a Zone track bar and Bilstein 5100 shocks. This is considered a 2" level kit, but I got 3.5 because I had sagging springs. The Mastercraft tires' official measurements in this size are 34.5" tall and 12.43" inches wide. This is important because some tires run very different from others. Some of my clearances are less than 1/2".

Rubbing? Yes:
When at full lock turning right, the back of the right/front tire and the front of the left/front tire rub some on the leaf springs. My truck turns sharper to the right than it does to the left. :dunno: Also, my right front tire sits 1/2" closer to the leaf spring than the left front.
There is also rubbing/scuffing when the truck is articulated with the wheels halfway turned. This rubbing is minor and occurs on the inner fender liner behind the tire (zip ties fix it).
My testing ground was a steep little berm in a field. I pulled up on it with one front tire until my back tire was lifted off the ground; I tried a few different steering angles to test for clearance and even backed on to it to place all the weight on one front tire. This would represent my maximum articulation for LOW speed off-roading, nothing very hard core.

Power Loss? Yes (of course):
I have 3.73 gears. I believe the bigger tires make it more like a 3.55 gear ratio, effectively. Also, there is a bit more rolling resistance. I tested the rolling resistance on a steep highway that I used to coast down without losing any speed. This time, I coasted down it and went from 60mph to 57. It is barely noticeable. The change in "gear ratio" is noticeable, but less than I expected. I have to give a little more throttle position than before. This translates into the truck shifting into overdrive at about 200 RPM higher (more revs for same acceleration). It used to shift around 43mph but now it's about 45. It feels similar to towing a small lawn mower. At highway speeds it runs quiet and smooth. I can now do 70 at ~1800 rpm, used to be ~2000 rpm. All mph are measured by GPS because I haven't calibrated the speedometer for the tires. I used to only get 13.5 / 17 mpg city / highway but I haven't measured yet with the new tires. My guess is highway won't change much, it feels about the same.

Tires: Ok so far (about a week)
The tires balanced easily (says tire guy). They are completely smooth going down the road at 80. I can't hear them over the engine/wind noise so I guess they are pretty quiet. They are a little more aggressive than they look in the pics. The voids are larger in the center and smaller on the edge, like the opposite of a mud tire. The traction seems reasonable for an all terrain. I can back uphill in wet grass now without slipping. The feel on the road is much better than I expected. There are only slight differences in handling from the old E rated 285's. I would say they "wander" slightly more and have a little more roll when cornering, very little. This may increase as they get broken in but for now it feels very stable and grips well.

Pro Comp 22210 level springs with Bilstein 5100 shocks: Awesome
This is my second best upgrade after tuning the truck. I had about 1/2" to my bumpstops with my old springs, now it's about 3". It is a 5 leaf pack with the same spring rate as the original, some of the lift comes from the thickness of the pack. The ride is firm but not harsh. The articulation is much better as well. The springs haven't settled at all. I was worried because some guys say their springs settled back to near stock height, but none of those guys bought the adjustable track bar like I did. I don't know if it is a coincidence or not.

I'm happy to answer any questions I can. I'll also give periodic updates for how these "off brand" tires are holding up if anybody says they're interested.
 

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nice :thumb:
your truck has the same funky blue color mine does!
im definately getting 315's next time i buy tires, got 285's this time.

my pro comps springs have started to slightly sag, but they are farrrr from being new.
 

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These trucks should have come stock with 35's
It just looks "right"
Nice write up Rex
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yep, she's blurple. Looks black in twilight, looks blue in sunlight, looks purple in indirect sunlight. :hehe: I plasti dipped the hood for the winter so hopefully the "snow flakes" in the paint don't get worse. Also did the rocker panels, front bumper, and fender flares, it keeps it from getting scratched by little rocks and branches. Most people don't even notice on this color of truck. I don't have the guts to do bed liner on the rockers, yet...

If the pro comps will last a few more years under the 7.3, I'll probably buy them again. I love the ride, it felt like a new truck. It was almost dangerous before. If I had to come to a quick stop on a bumpy road it was 1. hit brakes 2. front end drops 3. leafs bottom out on bump stops 4. next bump bounces front end of truck a foot in the air 5. $%&# my pants. Now it stops like a 1/2 ton.

I'm thinking I'll never be able to go back to 265's/285's, the 315's just fit too well. They look HUGE in the tire shop but on the truck they look normal. They should have made a 4x4 package that came with 35's and 4.10 gears. :icon_ford:

Joel, that is an awesome pic/truck! I have a similar camper shell and I was considering a rack like that. I want to make an expedition / camping / hunting kit for the truck. Also, I was wondering, what kind of leveling kit do you have? What's bad about the ride? Thanks.
 

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they made a f350 for the military :D remember seeing it on tv a while back. came from the factory lifted and all decked out.

haha i hear ya on the blurple. i have friends that think its black, blue and purple, depending on the time of day.
and my hood is doing the same cracking thing. and my rocker look like chit too lol

someone else that feels my pain, cause every other ford i see has perfect paint :doh:
 

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My leveling kit is an inexpensive summit/tuff country leaf pack.
It's works fine, it just rides a little on the rough side and has stared annoying me. Just hasn't annoyed me enough to do something about it yet.
Welcome to the 35 club haha
 

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My leveling kit is an inexpensive summit/tuff country leaf pack.
It's works fine, it just rides a little on the rough side and has stared annoying me. Just hasn't annoyed me enough to do something about it yet.
Welcome to the 35 club haha
I just took my Tuff Country leveling kit off this weekend and installed Procomp 22210 springs. BIG difference in ride quality, the TC kit literally beat the crap out of me on rough roads.
 

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Good to know. I guess I'll sell the leaf pack and keep the track bar bracket :)
 

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I have to say that you might want to consider the 22410 springs. The 22210 springs flattened out quite a bit more than I expected. I have a feeling they are a little under sprung for a 8,800lb truck.
 

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How did you know my truck weighs 8800lbs? Creepy
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
blderman, could you provide us with some numbers or pictures to show what you mean? Did you get less than 2" of lift? The 22210 is designed to give about 2" of extra height over a stock replacement spring for a diesel F250/350. The 22410 is designed to give 4" of lift and comes as part of a $950 package including add-a-leafs for the rear, a drop pitman arm for steering, and a track bar relocation bracket (Summit Racing has all the kits). It is a 4" lift kit spring and isn't really expected to be put on unless you lift the rear as well (people do it anyway but they are nose high all the time).

I would have raised hell if I put on the 22210 spring and it didn't give the promised 2" of lift (3.5" in my case due to saggin baggin springs). My pro comp kit came with these weird offset bushings with smaller bolts to "shift" the track bar, but I threw them away. I wanted either a new track bar or a relocation bracket, so I ended up with the new adjustable track bar. So far, my evidence says that:

New track bar/relocation bracket = happy :)

Old track bar + funky pro comp bushings = maybe not :mad:

I realize these are very technical equations, it took me a while to derive them.

Here are some updated pictures: 1) clearance to the bump stop on flat ground; 2) articulation; 3) short side articulated distance to bump stop; 4) worst rub point; 5) my $60 lighting system.

I was able to get more up-travel this time and I found that it would be very possible to bend/damage a little sheet metal on the very bottom of the fender if you were flexing and turning. Picture 4 shows it pretty well. I still had 1/2" before I touched the bump stop so if I bottom out the front while turning slightly, it's gonna leave a mark. The bump stop clearance is still 3" on flat, same as when the springs were new.

There is a great thread on cheap lighting somewhere. I have four $8 Harbor Freight lights. The top two have Aircraft Landing Light bulbs in them from NAPA at $12 each, somewhere around 100,000 candle power per bulb, very bright.
 

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blderman, could you provide us with some numbers or pictures to show what you mean? Did you get less than 2" of lift? The 22210 is designed to give about 2" of extra height over a stock replacement spring for a diesel F250/350. The 22410 is designed to give 4" of lift and comes as part of a $950 package including add-a-leafs for the rear, a drop pitman arm for steering, and a track bar relocation bracket (Summit Racing has all the kits). It is a 4" lift kit spring and isn't really expected to be put on unless you lift the rear as well (people do it anyway but they are nose high all the time).

I would have raised hell if I put on the 22210 spring and it didn't give the promised 2" of lift (3.5" in my case due to saggin baggin springs). My pro comp kit came with these weird offset bushings with smaller bolts to "shift" the track bar, but I threw them away. I wanted either a new track bar or a relocation bracket, so I ended up with the new adjustable track bar. So far, my evidence says that:

New track bar/relocation bracket = happy :)

Old track bar + funky pro comp bushings = maybe not :mad:

I realize these are very technical equations, it took me a while to derive them.

Here are some updated pictures: 1) clearance to the bump stop on flat ground; 2) articulation; 3) short side articulated distance to bump stop; 4) worst rub point; 5) my $60 lighting system.

I was able to get more up-travel this time and I found that it would be very possible to bend/damage a little sheet metal on the very bottom of the fender if you were flexing and turning. Picture 4 shows it pretty well. I still had 1/2" before I touched the bump stop so if I bottom out the front while turning slightly, it's gonna leave a mark. The bump stop clearance is still 3" on flat, same as when the springs were new.

There is a great thread on cheap lighting somewhere. I have four $8 Harbor Freight lights. The top two have Aircraft Landing Light bulbs in them from NAPA at $12 each, somewhere around 100,000 candle power per bulb, very bright.


They lifted the truck 2" as advertised. However, I was not expecting them to be completed flattened out in doing so. There isn't any arch left on them at all and where they are bolted to the axle there is actually a negative arch. That being said I put 150 miles on them today and they ride very nice. I just don't see how they are going to hold up long term. I could have purchased the 22410 springs for the exact same price and they would have completely leveled my truck as I am still 2" higher in the rear. Oh well.
 

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i will be getting the 22410 springs next time i get new tires. i want the front to be even with the back as well.
the PO installed extra leaves out back with an f350 block as well. so the 22410 springs will look perfect. although i dont want to buy 2 new shocks up front, but i might have to lol

my pro comp springs have been on about 5 years now. starting to sag a little.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yep, mine look negative above the axle too! Weird. Hopefully they'll hold up for you man. I've seen guys do the 22410's on F250's and F350's with nothing done to the back. The F250 points up noticeably when set up that way. The F350 is probably just more personal preference. Mine has a 1.6" rake now. My rears might be sagged a little from towing though.

Blue99, if you've already got the height in the rear you should go for it! Like blder said, they are about the same price so might as well. I think 4" is probably the sweet spot for 35's if you ask most these guys. In fact, I'm seeing a 4" lift in my future now. I blame my tire guy for selling me the 315's cheaper than the 285's I was gonna get, haha. The next mod is a detroit locker though, my limited slip is working about as well as our government right now.

I'm actually stuck in this picture. The left front and right rear were just digging.
 

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ya i told myself 285 was the biggest i was going, but now i want 315's lol :doh:

i probably have another year and a half on the duratracs then it will be time for a cheaper tire, that last longer lol

already half gone about 12k miles or so.

and the lsd in these sucks! i parked on the lawn one night at work. then went to leave and wasnt going anywhere, didnt realize i was tearing the chit outta the lawn....oops :haha: and that was with toyo mt's with plenty of tread
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I was actually looking hard at 285 dura tracs, then I thought I was gonna get the Kelly TSR which is just the knock off version for about $20 cheaper per tire ($202 each at my tire shop m&b'd). I like the idea of an aggressive A/T that's good in the winter. I guess they don't usually last quite as long though. Of course, when he said "how bout 35's for $192 m&b'd?" I couldn't resist. The All Terrain Kelly's that were on there when I bought it lasted over 40,000 miles over about 8 years. The truck sat on our farm for months at a time and my Granddad would just get in and drive to Colorado. Tires had 25/35psi front and 45/70psi rear when I bought it. :laugh: I'm sure he towed our stock trailer / tractor a dozen times like that, but they held up somehow...

This was the passenger rear for about 6 of those 8 years.
 

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kinda like your new tires.
thinking about getting less aggressive tires next time, so last a bit longer.

how much did you pay for all four if i might ask?
 

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I get a set of 285/75/16 Kelly Safari TSRs last January. I have put almost 15,000 miles on them and only worn 1/8" of the 19/32" tread depth off. So far they are wearing better than any Toyo tire I have owned.
 
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