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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone, new member here. :eek:

I've combed the internet, had factory track bars laying on the garage floor and an adjustable ICON bar in then back out (made my particular problem worse) and after reading the comments in an old thread on this page, I finally felt like I was reading about my problem. I'm putting this here because I'm not sure if the people on the old thread will un-bury the issue and talk about it again. Hope this is okay. Here's what has happened and is happening.

Background:
3/2011: Purchase new 6.7 2011 F-250 4wd, crew cab, short bed.

3/2011: Installs

1) 4" Rancho Lift w/5000 shocks
2) 35" BFG TA/KO AT tires on after-market 17" rims (changed the rims size from 18')
3) Pro Comp dual shock steering stabilizer

6/2012: 45,000 miles on my truck, first encounter with "death wobble".. thought the left front wheel was coming off.

7/2012: Wobble progressively worse, tighten all lift parts and factory suspension parts. Nut on Pittman arm nearly off (I know, don't yell..) Next to no improvement.

8/2012: Wobble is now deadly out of control, nearly constant and has me too freaked out to drive it. It's just flat out dangerous. Dealer says nothing is wrong, all of them wobble a little. (good grief)

8/28/2012: Pull factory track bar, install adjustable ICON track bar. Test drive, nearly lose total control of pick-up after crossing railroad tracks. Takes two lanes and speed reduction to 10mph to recover control. Remove ICON track bar and reinstall factory bar.
Situation returns from instant death to certain death.

Call dealer again, diesel tech says the problem is the Pro Comp stabilizer. I say probably worn or damaged tie rod parts or drag link, I know squat so pretend I didn't say that. I rotate and balance tires regularly and keep them at 65 pounds. They have 45,000 miles on them and except for normal wear.. they are in "fair" shape. I'm not excited about putting tires on it if the front end is messed up.

I've owned 7 F-250's since 1994, all crew cabs, 4wd, short-beds. I've lifted the last 3, steering stabilizers on the last 2. I still have my 2005 6.0. I have never experienced anything like this before.

I'm not overly talented with a wrench and my local guys really aren't able to help, they're guessing (hence the in and out ICON track bar). I need guidance. I can't drive my pick up and I don't know where to turn next. Given my equipment, the symptoms and the situation, can you make a recommendation for me?

Thank you so much!
 

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Get a chance to check the alignment and check to see if castor is in check?
 

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Discussion Starter #3

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Have your alignment Tech get close to 5 degrees of Positive caster that should fix the problem. Have the Tech also check your Ball joints and the Ball joint on the end of your Track bar for excessive end play. I just replaced mine after 20K .

Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Have your alignment Tech get close to 5 degrees of Positive caster that should fix the problem. Have the Tech also check your Ball joints and the Ball joint on the end of your Track bar for excessive end play. I just replaced mine after 20K .

Good Luck
Thank you so much, I'll take your recommendations with me to the alignment shop when I go on Monday. I'm afraid to hope it's not something major, lol. I forgot to mention that the ball joint on the factory track bar looked fine. No noticeable or uneven wear and no excessive end play. But I'll make sure that they check the ball joints too..pretty sure I'll want them to go through everything. Thanks!
 

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Might not be a bad idea to throw that icon track rod back in too.

It can be hard to tell on the factory track rod joint, sometimes it feels tight but it really has some play in it. Hard to tell by hand, it doesn't take much to make things fubar.
 

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An Easy way to check the Track Bar bushing is to have someone turn the wheel back and forth with the engine running and the their foot on the brake. You can see the Track bar move from side to side and up and down if it is worn out.
 

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Also look to getting an aftermarket shock absorber setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
An Easy way to check the Track Bar bushing is to have someone turn the wheel back and forth with the engine running and the their foot on the brake. You can see the Track bar move from side to side and up and down if it is worn out.
Yes, thank you... I did that, there was no up and down play.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)

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Discussion Starter #12
Might not be a bad idea to throw that icon track rod back in too.

It can be hard to tell on the factory track rod joint, sometimes it feels tight but it really has some play in it. Hard to tell by hand, it doesn't take much to make things fubar.
I sent it back to 4WParts, if after I try everything else I still want it, I can always order it again.
 

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Goodness brother. What a disappointment on such a brand new truck. I'm SO sorry to hear ur bad luck.

My Rec is to first have alignment guy check all parts to make sure truck is perfectly aligned. That fixed my death wobble issue. On my 6.0, dual steering stabilizers, a new track bar, drag link, and new ball joints fixed my death wobble. Hope that helps.


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 

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There are only a few things that can cause death wobble. As others have said, check the ball joints, ensure the caster is around 4*, check your track bar, track bar ball joint, control arms bushings and steering linkage. Not trying to single anyone out but avoid getting a steering stabilizer as it masks death wobble until it's bad enough to shake with the stabilizers on. On such a new truck, there has to be something you're missing! Check for obvious things like clocked tie rod end and worn steering.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
There are only a few things that can cause death wobble. As others have said, check the ball joints, ensure the caster is around 4*, check your track bar, track bar ball joint, control arms bushings and steering linkage. Not trying to single anyone out but avoid getting a steering stabilizer as it masks death wobble until it's bad enough to shake with the stabilizers on. On such a new truck, there has to be something you're missing! Check for obvious things like clocked tie rod end and worn steering.
I'm listening. I agree. I'm also glad you mentioned steering linkage because my steering is making a distinct noise. With truck started, sitting on smooth concrete turning the steering wheel side to side to side to side... there's a distinct "CLUNK" noise about midway in the back and forth motion. I pulled my hair out looking for that noise and finally stuck my hand in the wheel well and put my hand on the gear box and could FEEL the clunking noise as the wheels turn back and forth. Naturally, the dealer said it's nothing. Do you have a thought?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Goodness brother. What a disappointment on such a brand new truck. I'm SO sorry to hear ur bad luck.

My Rec is to first have alignment guy check all parts to make sure truck is perfectly aligned. That fixed my death wobble issue. On my 6.0, dual steering stabilizers, a new track bar, drag link, and new ball joints fixed my death wobble. Hope that helps.


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app

LOL....hello friend and actually, it's "sister" ;)
I agree with you on the 6.0. I have a 6.0 too and if it were my 6.0 doing this stuff, I would do exactly what you did. Since like you said..it's only a year and half old... I don't expect to have those issues yet, that's why I'm baffled. I have to remember though, it has almost 50K on it. I drive A LOT of miles and lots of those miles are hard. I work in agri-business and drive all over fields, pastures, ditches, unpaved roads, etc... I think I'm off the road as much as on.

Thanks!
 

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Lot's of great suggestions above and if everything in the steering and track bar setup are tight the next 2 causes are usually caster (you want 4-5 degrees positive on these trucks) and tires. BFG All Terrains have been know to be a huge culprit on heavier trucks like these especially the 35's. Even the E-Rated versions have pretty weak sidewalls for an 8000 lb truck. I've run a lot of BFG's on lighter vehicles like Jeeps but I don't trust them under 3/4+ ton trucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Lot's of great suggestions above and if everything in the steering and track bar setup are tight the next 2 causes are usually caster (you want 4-5 degrees positive on these trucks) and tires. BFG All Terrains have been know to be a huge culprit on heavier trucks like these especially the 35's. Even the E-Rated versions have pretty weak sidewalls for an 8000 lb truck. I've run a lot of BFG's on lighter vehicles like Jeeps but I don't trust them under 3/4+ ton trucks.
Thanks for the feedback! I have loved these tires for a long, long time. I hope it's not the tires. :( I've probably bought 7 sets of these tires and ran about 400,000 miles on the 7 sets. I got 76,000 off of one set on my 2005 6.0! I actually tried a different tire on this 2011 when it was new (Hankooks) and I hated them, lol. Drove it for 200 miles and went back to the tire shop and they bought them back from me. I promptly put the BFGs on.

With that being said... I have never had 35s before this pick-up. Tweedy (lol, yes, his real name) my 2005 6.0, has 285s. And so did my (also lifted) 2002 7.3 before Tweedy.

If you were to pick a 35" tire for me, what would you choose? I'm off road all the time on lots of unstable ground. I need a good side wall. I drive through mesquite thorns and cactus, on rocks, gravel and deep sand, cultivated fields, corn stalks and ranch roads. Sometimes mud, not often. (you need rain to get mud, lol) But, I also drive a lot of highway miles too. I drive about 100 to 200 miles a day; most days. I'm not experienced with tires and so I stick to one tire and play it safe. I really do want to know what you would pick.

Thanks!
 

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Thanks for the feedback! I have loved these tires for a long, long time. I hope it's not the tires. :( I've probably bought 7 sets of these tires and ran about 400,000 miles on the 7 sets. I got 76,000 off of one set on my 2005 6.0! I actually tried a different tire on this 2011 when it was new (Hankooks) and I hated them, lol. Drove it for 200 miles and went back to the tire shop and they bought them back from me. I promptly put the BFGs on.

With that being said... I have never had 35s before this pick-up. Tweedy (lol, yes, his real name) my 2005 6.0, has 285s. And so did my (also lifted) 2002 7.3 before Tweedy.

If you were to pick a 35" tire for me, what would you choose? I'm off road all the time on lots of unstable ground. I need a good side wall. I drive through mesquite thorns and cactus, on rocks, gravel and deep sand, cultivated fields, corn stalks and ranch roads. Sometimes mud, not often. (you need rain to get mud, lol) But, I also drive a lot of highway miles too. I drive about 100 to 200 miles a day; most days. I'm not experienced with tires and so I stick to one tire and play it safe. I really do want to know what you would pick.

Thanks!
SKYD RAM is spot on and I can't believe I missed that one. BFG's are the #1 cause of DW in my world. If I were to recommend a tire, it would be a Toyo 35" Mud terrain as they seem to have the strongest sidewalls in their e-rated tires. Run them at 40psi front and 35 rear (when unloaded) and they'll give you a great ride and solidify the feeling in your front end assuming all is tight as you say it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Toyo 35" Mud terrain
We don't have mud. lol...seriously. No mud. Is the Toyo mud tire still the best choice for my particular driving conditions and does it have the side wall I need? More importantly, do they sell them at Discount Tire? :please: Because that's where the credit line is!! It is tire time, so I don't have a problem with new tires, I'm ready.

Thank you!
 
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