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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a 2008 6.4L that a lifter recently failed in, so I had the motor out and torn down to rebuild it. Upon putting the motor back in, I had quite a hard time getting the tranny to slide back onto the motor, but it finally went. Let it be known that I did all of this with the cab on, so I’m sure that played a big part in all of my troubles as well.

Please keep in mind that this is the first diesel that I’ve owned, as well as the first diesel that I’ve worked on, so I’ll applogize up front for anything that I sound stupid saying...

Anyways, after getting the tranny back on, finding out my starter was bad, finding out both batteries were bad, and taking quite a while to bleed the air out of the fuel system, I finally got her to fire up. Initially, I had 4 CELs - 2 of which were for glowplug #3, 1 of which was for glowplug #7, and one of which was a P0741 - for the TCC solenoid.

I don’t have a code reader, so I found all of this out by taking the truck to my local AutoZone to have the codes pulled. On the way to AutoZone, something wasn’t feeling right. There was a few times where the tranny shifted hard, but for 95% of the time driving, it felt like the tranny was slipping, and the tranny temperature was almost spiking. The temperature needle was at the top of the gauge, but not into the red.

Anyways, I got it back home and changed the #3 and #7 glowplugs. I drained the tranny fluid and dropped the pan. I pulled the TCC out and put 12 volts to it. It seemed to be working as to how I thought it should be, because it opened and closed when power was put to it and taken away from it. I also tested the ohms and was getting 4.6 ohms, which from what I’ve read is good (anywhere from 4.1-4.7 ohms is good). I put the TCC back in and hooked the connector back up, sealed up the pan, dumped some fresh fluid back in and fired her back up.

No more check engine lights - great!

Well, now no matter what gear I shift into, it acts as if it’s in neutral. RPMs will go up when in gear, but the truck doesn’t go anywhere. Initially, I thought that the shifter linkage needed adjusted, so I went ahead and did that, but it still doesn’t move no matter what gear you’re in. The fluid level is full as well - I keep checking this periodically.

Here’s something that I find very odd - I can start the truck while it’s in park, like any other normal vehicle. If I shut the truck off while in park and rock the truck back and forth (I did this initially to check how much play there was while in park), there’s a noticible ‘clunking’ noise coming from the shifter lever on the side of the transmission. If you rock it back and forth a small number of times, the clunking noise goes away, but now when you try to start the truck while it’s in park, it grinds and will not fire up. If I shift down into neutral, it will fire right up. If I shift down into neutral and then back up into park, it’ll also start.

I’ve read a few places that the transfer case could possibly be stuck between 2wd and 4wd - is this true? If this is true, how do I go abouts manually shifting the t-case back into 2wd?

I’m not in the least bit sure of what’s going on here, but I’ll take any kind of advice that I can get. I just want my truck back and I’m totally stumped.

Thanks in advance!

- DJ
 

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I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer but to me something has happened when you dropped the pan. There is a valve that slides back and forth in the valve body that alows fluid to flow to which ever gear is seleted, my first step would be to drop the pan again and manually move the sifter linkage to verify the valve is moving. Maybe the first thing should be to check is the transfer case,an easy way to do that is to jack the rear diff off the ground and try to rotate the rear driveshaft while trans is in park,if it rotates then the transfer case is in neutral or "half ways" between.

Randy
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer but to me something has happened when you dropped the pan. There is a valve that slides back and forth in the valve body that alows fluid to flow to which ever gear is seleted, my first step would be to drop the pan again and manually move the sifter linkage to verify the valve is moving. Maybe the first thing should be to check is the transfer case,an easy way to do that is to jack the rear diff off the ground and try to rotate the rear driveshaft while trans is in park,if it rotates then the transfer case is in neutral or "half ways" between.

Randy
If the driveshaft rotates, how would I manually lock the t-case into 2wd?
 

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Hmm not sure unless you remove the shift motor and turn it manually. Someone should comment here. If it's not working I think you should find the problem or turn the key on and have someone flip the switch from 2wd to 4wd back and forth,while your under the truck you will hear or feel the motor trying to work if not check wiring,fuzes,etc
sorry I'm not much help.

Randy
 
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