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2006 f350 fuel sending unit

4402 Views 57 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  TooManyToys, 
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This is my first diesel. 2006 f350 4 door long bed 4x4. I think my in tank sending unit needs to be replaced. I was surprised at the amount of options for this part. Can anyone offer some guidance or wisdom on selecting a part?
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Maybe your issue is that aftermarket (tall) oil filter cap.
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jokester00
Definitely need to swap that tall oil filter housing cap to a smaller OEM cap. If that isn't causing your issue now, it WILL cause you issues down the road if it gets paired with an OEM filter.

I seem to remember my secondary housing fuel level being a bit higher than yours when I pull my filter out. Have you had someone turn on the key to see how long the housing takes to fill? Be careful, as this can create a mess if you don't turn it off before it overflows the housing. When it's filling, look for bubbles in the fuel.

-jokester
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SuperCrutyPS said:
Check your fuel bowl and filter. Is there any fuel in there? How much fuel in the tank?
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When I have the bowl open and turn the power on should it start filling the bowl? Or only if I’m turning it over?
jokester00 said:
Definitely need to swap that tall oil filter housing cap to a smaller OEM cap. If that isn't causing your issue now, it WILL cause you issues down the road if it gets paired with an OEM filter.

I seem to remember my secondary housing fuel level being a bit higher than yours when I pull my filter out. Have you had someone turn on the key to see how long the housing takes to fill? Be careful, as this can create a mess if you don't turn it off before it overflows the housing. When it's filling, look for bubbles in the fuel.

-jokester
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do I need to turn over the engine to fill the bowl?
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The fuel pump comes on with the key in the "on" position. No need to crank. This is why the operating manual states to cycle the key to "on" several times after fuel filter change out - to prime the pump.

That said, the fuel pump will "time out" after about 20 seconds if engine rpm is not detected (an important safety feature).

Still want to hear your thoughts on the oil filter cap ............
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bismic said:
The fuel pump comes on with the key in the "on" position. No need to crank. This is why the operating manual states to cycle the key to "on" several times after fuel filter change out - to prime the pump.

That said, the fuel pump will "time out" after about 20 seconds if engine rpm is not detected (an important safety feature).

Still want to hear your thoughts on the oil filter cap ............
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I will definitely change the oil cap if you guys recommend. When I put the key in the on position and cycle the system it does not fill the bowl. No bubbles nothing happens. I hear the rail pump when I turn the key on for about 20 sec. But nothing happens at the bowl.
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TooManyToys
The next step would be to get a container of diesel and a few feet of 3/8" reinforced vinyl hose, and a hose clamp. Use that as a temporary tank connected to the lower left nipple of the HFCM manifold, which is the supply from the tank. Keep in mind, depending on the level of fuel in the tank, you may need to stuff a 3/8" dowel (but not a bolt) in the tank hose to keep it from continually flowing. Then try a few attempts at filing the secondary filter bowl. It may take a few to push the air out.

If it fills, you most likely have an issue with the foot in the tank.
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jokester00
Codyvollmers said:
I will definitely change the oil cap if you guys recommend. When I put the key in the on position and cycle the system it does not fill the bowl. No bubbles nothing happens. I hear the rail pump when I turn the key on for about 20 sec. But nothing happens at the bowl.
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This is good - well, good as in, you've for sure got a good line on the fix for the fuel issue. And when you change the cap, make sure you put an OEM filter in there with it.

Now you just need to isolate whether the fuel delivery issue is incoming to the HFCM from the tank or something in the HFCM itself.

@TooManyToys @bismic or @Hydro will have you covered with a procedure.

EDITED @TooManyToys right on schedule :D

-jokester
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TooManyToys said:
The next step would be to get a container of diesel and a few feet of 3/8" reinforced vinyl hose, and a hose clamp. Use that as a temporary tank connected to the lower left nipple of the HFCM manifold, which is the supply from the tank. Keep in mind, depending on the level of fuel in the tank, you may need to stuff a 3/8" dowel (but not a bolt) in the tank hose to keep it from continually flowing. Then try a few attempts at filing the secondary filter bowl. It may take a few to push the air out.

If it fills, you most likely have an issue with the foot in the tank.
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That would be frustrating because I just replaced the foot 4 weeks ago per your you tube video. Thank you by the way for making that. Great info
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jokester00 said:
This is good - well, good as in, you've for sure got a good line on the fix for the fuel issue. And when you change the cap, make sure you put an OEM filter in there with it.

Now you just need to isolate whether the fuel delivery issue is incoming to the HFCM from the tank or something in the HFCM itself.

@TooManyToys @bismic or @Hydro will have you covered with a procedure.

EDITED @TooManyToys right on schedule :D

-jokester
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I just replaced the tank fuel foot thingy 4 weeks ago. So it seems like it’s all coming towards the hfcm unit. Are there any tests I should do? Or just replace the unit?
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jokester00
Codyvollmers said:
I just replaced the tank fuel foot thingy 4 weeks ago. So it seems like it’s all coming towards the hfcm unit. Are there any tests I should do? Or just replace the unit?
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The test mentioned above will help you isolate where the issue lies. Since you just did maintenance on something in the fuel delivery system right before this popped up...might be a coinkydink, might not.

-jokester
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TooManyToys
Thanks for letting us know. Did the foot break into pieces, and if it did, are you sure you got everything out?

If it did break apart, did you do anything to check if the supply hose/tube was clear?

The one story I highlighted in the video, "Rusty_Axlerod", had a similar situation where he thought he was good with a new HFCM, but debris was in the tank and the line. He'd get good pressure until he didn't.

It could be the HFCM. But with what they cost, it might be better to spend some labor time still to confirm. I just wasted two HFCM fuel pumps when the owners replaced the entire HFCM and fixed the issues. But both truck issues could have been solved by pulling the HFCM cover and checking the chambers and ports. They swore the pumps were bad.

So are far as labor time and cost, I'd pull the HFCM cover and check the chambers and ports. That's the least cost/hassle item. If the cover gasket swells, sometimes putting them in sunlight for a few hours shrinks them back.

If nothing is found there, I'd do the remote fuel can. However, if you want to drive around with it, you'll need a 5/16" hose to connect to the HFCM to tank return and put that in the diesel container, or else you'd run out of fuel in 5-10 minutes.

If the remote fuel can is fine, you got a supply line issue. And rather than trying to clear it out, I'd use a 3/8" diesel injection hose and run it from the tank to the HFCM. Not the cheapest thing to do, but you are confident there is nothing in the hard line, and you never have to worry about the quick connect o-rings at the tank and HFCM degrading and pulling in air.

Now that I said that, another issue could be the connection at the top of the tank.
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TooManyToys said:
Thanks for letting us know. Did the foot break into pieces, and if it did, are you sure you got everything out?

If it did break apart, did you do anything to check if the supply hose/tube was clear?

The one story I highlighted in the video, "Rusty_Axlerod", had a similar situation where he thought he was good with a new HFCM, but debris was in the tank and the line. He'd get good pressure until he didn't.

It could be the HFCM. But with what they cost, it might be better to spend some labor time still to confirm. I just wasted two HFCM fuel pumps when the owners replaced the entire HFCM and fixed the issues. But both truck issues could have been solved by pulling the HFCM cover and checking the chambers and ports. They swore the pumps were bad.

So are far as labor time and cost, I'd pull the HFCM cover and check the chambers and ports. That's the least cost/hassle item. If the cover gasket swells, sometimes putting them in sunlight for a few hours shrinks them back.

If nothing is found there, I'd do the remote fuel can. However, if you want to drive around with it, you'll need a 5/16" hose to connect to the HFCM to tank return and put that in the diesel container, or else you'd run out of fuel in 5-10 minutes.

If the remote fuel can is fine, you got a supply line issue. And rather than trying to clear it out, I'd use a 3/8" diesel injection hose and run it from the tank to the HFCM. Not the cheapest thing to do, but you are confident there is nothing in the hard line, and you never have to worry about the quick connect o-rings at the tank and HFCM degrading and pulling in air.

Now that I said that, another issue could be the connection at the top of the tank.
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The foot was not broken up. I did replace it though since I was already there and had the part. The aux diaphragm to bypass freeze had popped out and I think that was my issue since I had no more problems since fixing that. I made sure the tank was clean disconnected the lines and blew them out with 120+ psi. Pulled the hfcm cover and had nothing in there.
Since I’m back with an issue in the same area like you said it’s worth looking in there again before I buy a new one
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TooManyToys
Having the valve pop isn’t fun, but you didn’t have a bad situation. It seems like you covered everything. I should have refreshed my reading of the thread before I posted last.

I would still check the manifold ports, just to make sure. Myself, I would do the hose from the diesel container, because that’s from my career path, do the test so you have an answer if the question ever turns up, aka, no stone unturned.

I just hate to see you replace the unit if it’s something else. But it might be where you need to go.
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TooManyToys said:
Thanks for letting us know. Did the foot break into pieces, and if it did, are you sure you got everything out?

If it did break apart, did you do anything to check if the supply hose/tube was clear?

The one story I highlighted in the video, "Rusty_Axlerod", had a similar situation where he thought he was good with a new HFCM, but debris was in the tank and the line. He'd get good pressure until he didn't.

It could be the HFCM. But with what they cost, it might be better to spend some labor time still to confirm. I just wasted two HFCM fuel pumps when the owners replaced the entire HFCM and fixed the issues. But both truck issues could have been solved by pulling the HFCM cover and checking the chambers and ports. They swore the pumps were bad.

So are far as labor time and cost, I'd pull the HFCM cover and check the chambers and ports. That's the least cost/hassle item. If the cover gasket swells, sometimes putting them in sunlight for a few hours shrinks them back.

If nothing is found there, I'd do the remote fuel can. However, if you want to drive around with it, you'll need a 5/16" hose to connect to the HFCM to tank return and put that in the diesel container, or else you'd run out of fuel in 5-10 minutes.

If the remote fuel can is fine, you got a supply line issue. And rather than trying to clear it out, I'd use a 3/8" diesel injection hose and run it from the tank to the HFCM. Not the cheapest thing to do, but you are confident there is nothing in the hard line, and you never have to worry about the quick connect o-rings at the tank and HFCM degrading and pulling in air.

Now that I said that, another issue could be the connection at the top of the tank.
Click to expand...
It was a bit dirty inside the hfcm the second pic is in the bottom chamber the first pic was in the 2nd chamber and the 3rd was clean. What does this mean? Bad hfcm?
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jokester00
What did the inside of your tank look like when you changed the pickup foot? Did you see any grit or grime in there? How often are you changing your filters?

-jokester
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jokester00 said:
What did the inside of your tank look like when you changed the pickup foot? Did you see any grit or grime in there? How often are you changing your filters?

-jokester
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The tank was actually really clean. I’ve never changed the filters. Only had the truck 6 mo. The oil change sticker says I still have over 2k before it’s due.
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It is always a good idea to change filters AND fluids immediately when buying a used vehicle. You just have no way of knowing if the previous owner took care of the truck or not. A plugged fuel filter (as an example - who knows if that is your issue) can lead to a pump failure. Pump failure can lead to EXPENSIVE injector failure. Domino effect on failures/spending.

We have already seen the poor choice in oil filter/cap - probably the previous owner. That is potentially a problem. If an OEM filter is used with a tall cap, then your lubrication oil flow and pressure is significantly reduced. This can lead to serious engine problems.

If the transmission fluid and EXTERNAL filter have had similar poor maintenance, you could be in for a big expense. Best you can do is to start good maintenance practices NOW.

Lots of videos on doing these tasks if you need the help.
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TooManyToys
I was hoping you had an image of the chamber's themselves. Were the ports clear?
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jokester00 said:
Do you hear the fuel pump turn on at KOEO?

-jokester
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I sure can and it's loud as faak unfortunately. I thought it was the lift pump making the noise, but on closer inspection it's coming from the fuel tank. Something in there I need to replace I'm guessing :unsure:
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Nothing "factory" inside the fuel tank except for the sending unit and pickup tube.

I'm getting a little confused on who is asking what in several of these threads though, lol!
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