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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
First post, figured I'd introduce myself and then ask for help :grin:

My truck is a 2005 F250 4X4 with automatic and 256k miles.
I've only had it a few months. this is my first Powerstroke (first Ford, actually, in a long number of years).
I've had Cummins and an old GM 6.5.
Anyway I now own a Ford and need help with it.
I have no clue the previous history of the truck.
I do know it has an egr delete (really odd, since a bulletproof EGR was tossed in the back).
I did a blue spring kit as well as a Sinister Diesel air charge tube and boot.
Previous owner said it had a rebuilt standard oil cooler and turbo.
It also has had the cat removed.
Going by what I can see, it's been seriously worked on before but no clue as to what was done other than what I said.
That's the extent of my knowledge of it.

Now for issues :)

4X4 doesn't work. It's the electronic one with the switch on the dash. Light doesn't come on and the shift motor doesn't engage. It's missing the vacuum lines to the front axle, but I plugged them and figured if I needed 4X4, I'd just lock in the hubs manually (assuming I figure why the transfer case isn't engaging). That should be ok, right?

It's lately started stalling while going down the road. If I'm going fast enough, sometimes it will restart by itself. if not then not.
On rare occasions, I can start it again. Usually, not.
I did use ether twice and that worked, but I don't like using it.
I got the Torque pro app for my phone, after watching a very knowledgeable guy on youtube (I think his name was Ron, but can't remember. I know he was very good at explaining the powerstroke).
Checked the powerstroke pid thingies against what he said they should be and ICP volts showed 2.7.
After extensive research (for an old, computer illiterate guy) I cannot find anything about the volts being too much.
On the off chance that it could be the pigtail, I ordered one (they're cheap) and it should be in tomorrow.
As far as IPOP, FICM voltage, etc, they were all good. But then, Ron said if the ICP volts were off, then they wouldn't be correct.

Thoughts and/or suggestions?

Sorry, typo'd the header. It's a 2005 model
 

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Sean is one of our best wrenches. He will have some ideas. @LoxDiesel
 

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Volts should go up and down with the ICP. If it stays steady as the truck is driven, or revved, than the problem can be in the ICP, pigtail or wiring. A little less than 1 volt should be normal idle, 5 volts maxed out at 4100, and 2.5 volts at 2300 PSI. I normally get 2300 PSI when working the engine hard down the freeway.
 

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KOEO the ICP volts should be in the 0.25 area -- if the PCM does not read the ICP sensor, it will set an inferred value -- so with the inferred value, you will see the pressure reading change but not the voltage as the engine speed/load is increased -- the PCM is using internal tables to figure the values

Since you are not seeing a voltage change, either the sensor is bad or the wiring leading to the PCM
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the replies.

The value does change if I start it and changes more if I rev it up.
I was just going by what that guy said on youtube about the KOEO value.

I'm going to try to get that pigtail on today and see what it says then.
If I can remember, I'll also get that exact figures and post them.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
UPDATE:
Changed the pigtail. No difference. But i'm not getting any ficm sinc. shows 0.0 whether KOEO or running.
KOEO:
IPR 14.7
ICP volts 2.3
FMP 49.9
FICM sinc 0.0

Idling:
FMP 49.0
FICM sinc 0.0
HPOP 851.0
IPR 27.8
ICP volts 10 (varies a little up or down)

Since it will run (and not bad, actually, except for the stalling) is my problem going to be FICM wiring issues?
 

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As I stated before the ICP at key on ICP sensor voltage should be about 0.25

You are showing a lot more than that -- since you just put a new pigtail on -- would be good to test the harness voltages -- with the plug facing you and orientated so it looks like a face -- the left terminal is ground, right is 5 volts, and center is signal

You can test with the harness connected by probing the butt connectors or however the pigtail is fastened

With voltages that high, usually a short in the harness or a loose connection at the FICM plug(the one near the firewall)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks. I'll try and get to that tomorrow.

This is to find out why I don't have any ficm sinc showing or the high voltage for the icp or both?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Finally got around to messing with it again.
I now have a new problem. No start. TorquePro says whiles trying to start that my hpop isn't getting over 259.
Not enough to start it, obviously.
It was fine last time I ran it, close to a month ago.
Can they go bad sitting? I wouldn't think so, but something screwed up somewhere.
I'm assuming it's mechanical and messing with the ficm shouldn't have any effect on it.
And yes, it's full of oil :)

Thoughts? I'm at the point I'm seriously considering selling what parts I can and scrapping the rest.
 

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Just wondering what ever became of this. I'm pretty new here but, I can't imagine the engine could run without FICM sync. Did you key the PIDs for these into TorquePro yourself? I wonder if you get a bit wrong.
FSYNC its 2209cd with an equation of {A:1} and ODB header of 7E0
sync is just about the same, but eq of {A:0}

i.e. these are single bit values.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I gave up on it. I tried a new ICP, just to be sure that wasn't the problem with it not building enough oil pressure to start. Went up about a 100psi, but didn't reach 500.
I got a 2000 F350 cc 4x4 with the 7.3. It's been built and studded for a decent price, so I'm sticking with it.
If anyone in the MS area needs a parts truck or parts, let me know.
I did put the bumper, grill, header panel, and headlights off the '05 onto the 2000. I have everything else, though.
 

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Finally got around to messing with it again.
I now have a new problem. No start. TorquePro says whiles trying to start that my hpop isn't getting over 259.
Not enough to start it, obviously.
It was fine last time I ran it, close to a month ago.
Can they go bad sitting? I wouldn't think so, but something screwed up somewhere.
I'm assuming it's mechanical and messing with the ficm shouldn't have any effect on it.
And yes, it's full of oil :)

Thoughts? I'm at the point I'm seriously considering selling what parts I can and scrapping the rest.
IMO you need to do an air test. Probably you are going to need new dummy plugs, standpipes, and an updated STC fitting. You may also need a new IPR valve.

Your problems are not unique and certainly aren't "unsolvable".
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I meant IPR, not ICP (I had already changed that a few months ago).
You're right... they're not unique and certainly not unsolvable. There isn't anything that can't be fixed.
But. At some point you have to draw the line and say enough.
Being a swb ext cab that was used as a work truck, it just doesn't have the value (at least not here) to make putting too much time and money into it worth it.
The F350 is a helluva lot nicer, everything works, and it's a crewcab lwb. Plus, it's gets better mileage.
 

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An air test on a 6.0L is a common thing to do. Fixing the STC fitting and the dummy plugs and standpipes are a necessity. They are relatively easy to do and every 2005 and up (and late 04's for the dummy plugs and standpipes) need these upgrades for reliability.

At 235k miles, it should not be a big surprise for a transfer case motor to fail. Maybe even time for a new HPOP. That is about when my 7.3L needed a new HPOP, new fuel pump, and its second new transmission.

If these things are a problem for you to take on, then I agree - time to part ways with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'm going to do the stand pipes and dummy plugs since they're inexpensive. Or at least pull a valve cover and see if they've already been changed. Never can tell on used trucks whats been done and what hasn't.
As for the HPOP, I'm probably wrong, but I just can't see it going bad from sitting 3 weeks because it's mechanical. It ran a steady 1800+ pressure whenever I checked it.
 

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I didn't say the HPOP was bad. That year model has a weak HPOP discharge fitting (the 05 and up HPOP is actually quite reliable itself). If that fitting is still original (and it may be a big if - who knows), it is either bad or soon to go bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
You mean the STC fitting? I checked it when I put the IPR in and it looked good. Wasn't blown off, anyway. The IPR improved the oil pressure to 3something, but not the 500 to start it.
 

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And still ...you are reluctant to do the air test -- such a simple thing todo, and yet yields a lot of information

The IPR fitting is about $12 bucks -- add a short hose and valve(just because that is handy) and still less than $25

Throwing parts at a problem without testing is never an economical solution -- either in time or money
 
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