2006 6.0 grinding noise when running

2539 Views 8 Replies 5 Participants Last post by bismic, Dec 8, 2020

NateFineman_6.0

Discussion Starter · Dec 8, 2020

Just to be clear, this is not a suspension or wheel assembly issue. In my 2006 f250 6.0 powerstroke there has been a rise in a grinding noise over the past couple weeks coming specifically from the exhaust (I am running a welded in straight pipe no cat or muffler) and the passenger side of my engine. The grinding noise is finally to the point where it sounds terrible and I don’t want to drive the truck. I’m pretty sure my turbo veins may be chipped but the truck is running just fine and their is no vibration it just sounds terrible when running. Does any one have any suggestions of what the issue may be? I’m almost sure it’s the turbo but it could probably be a multitude of things.

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bismic

· #2 · Dec 8, 2020 (Edited)

First, I would make sure that the exhaust downpipe isn't rubbing against the firewall.

If you want to check the turbo:
Acceptable tolerance is measured in axial play (in and out) and radial play. Axial play should be no more than .091mm (0.0036in). The radial play tolerance is 0.5mm (0.02in)

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ChrisSki

· #3 · Dec 8, 2020

If you think it's the turbo, pull the airbox from it and look at the veins, which should look firly new with a little sign of wear. Wobble the blades side to side and if you get side to side movement it will take a lot of pressure with a finger. Do in and out movement, and there should be none. Also, spin the turbine, and it should be very stiff to start it, but will spin freely after. You may be able to split the Down pipe from the turbo and look at the vein with a snake cam. Take a look at the turbo oil feed tube and it should be a solif pipe and not the braided metal covered rubber cable. That can restrict oil and kill turbos.

If it fails these tests, except for the braided cable, perhaps you can do a rebuild, but whether you do that or swap it, I'd avoid driving with a bad turbo. If it blows, the parts will go into the intercoler, and perhaps sucked into the engine.

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bismic

· #4 · Dec 8, 2020

LOL - That is why I posted BOTH the axial (in and out) and radial (side to side) movement tolerances (from Ford)!

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jokester00

· #5 · Dec 8, 2020 (Edited)

Take one of those vibration stethoscopes and go poking around. You'll find the noise...

And IF you find it's your turbo and decide to change your turbo out for a stock unit and you're interested, I might be selling mine (<20k miles on it) and upgrading to a KC Stage 1 - so, there's that

-jokester

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NateFineman_6.0

Discussion Starter · #6 · Dec 8, 2020

ChrisSki said:
If you think it's the turbo, pull the airbox from it and look at the veins, which should look firly new with a little sign of wear. Wobble the blades side to side and if you get side to side movement it will take a lot of pressure with a finger. Do in and out movement, and there should be none. Also, spin the turbine, and it should be very stiff to start it, but will spin freely after. You may be able to split the Down pipe from the turbo and look at the vein with a snake cam. Take a look at the turbo oil feed tube and it should be a solif pipe and not the braided metal covered rubber cable. That can restrict oil and kill turbos.

If it fails these tests, except for the braided cable, perhaps you can do a rebuild, but whether you do that or swap it, I'd avoid driving with a bad turbo. If it blows, the parts will go into the intercoler, and perhaps sucked into the engine.

I just went outside to inspect the engine, I have not directly taken the air box out to reach the turbo yet though. I let it run for about 5 minutes and observed the same grinding noise. I did rev the engine, but not passed 1700rpm and noticed the grind get louder but it is still hard to hear over the compression of the engine. I also did notice a higher pitch in the turbo whine after revving the truck and letting it idle.

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Hydro

· #7 · Dec 8, 2020

Exhaust pipe bumping against the frame or body -- get under there and look

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ChrisSki

· #8 · Dec 8, 2020

bismic said:
LOL - That is why I posted BOTH the axial (in and out) and radial (side to side) movement tolerances (from Ford)!

Those fancy terms always confuse me

. Also, I tried to figure out once how to measure those tolerances and found a video on YouTube that had a special tool. Both those tolerances seem so small that to me if I feel it move with my finger at all, its way to much. The Larger one is about 1/64th of an inch, and I'm not sure I could see something that tall.

I found a 6.0 engine on display at a reputable shop and talked to the service advisor about it, and they let me test the turbo on the engine. That let me get a feel for a good turbo.

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bismic

· #9 · Dec 8, 2020

You can use a feeler gauge to get an idea on the radial play, so that doesn't require rocket science and expensive tools. You really need a dial indicator to do the axial movement measurement. That would probably mean the turbo would need to be removed. Without the proper tools, a person can only look for signs of contact and excessive wear. Very few people can properly asses the "wiggle test".

Regardless, I still think it is a downpipe "flexing" issue as I posted earlier. Seen it and heard it too many times.

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