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I have a 06 f250 that doesn't want to start! I've looked through a bunch of posts and threads on here and other forums, and finding a lot of the same issues but seems like no one ever posted what it turned out to be. I've got it diagnosed (possibly incorrectly), and I don't have the money to keep getting it diagnosed and switching random parts that "might be" it.

Here's a background:

Did an EGR delete and changed the oil cooler about 2k miles ago due to rough idle/running and blue smoke out of the exhaust on startup and acceleration. Truck still runs rough and idles weird, so that might be an injector issue (not getting any codes other than EGR). I've been having long crank times before it would start, mainly when its cold. Sometimes it wouldn't start, but after waiting and cranking for some time, it would fire up. This would happen pretty rare, but got more frequent in the last month or so.

I was leaving my brothers house last week and when I pulled out onto the road and accelerated, the truck just shut off. No stuttering or spitting. Almost as if I just turned the key off. I'm running an Edge CTS and noticed that my ICP dropped to 60psi. I ended up cranking the sh** out of it over time and still got nothing. Got it towed to my house 20 miles (wasn't cheap). I got it towed to a shop on Monday to run some diagnostics since I scanned the truck and looked inside and tore the whole thing apart and couldn't find what could be the problem. I figured it was something with the HPOS, but didn't know how to test each part of it.

The shop charged me $380 and told me it was my IPR screen, STC fitting, and ICP. I towed the truck to my brothers shop since they wanted $1900 for labor and told me the intake manifold had to come off to get HPOP cover off (I have the delete and the bolts were super easy to reach). I bought the STC kit from Ford and an ICP sensor/plug. I swapped all those parts, put the thing back together, and wen't to cranking. I know its going to take a while to get air out of system, especially since it was air tested.

I would crank for about 15-20 seconds, and let rest for 30+ seconds in between. After a couple minutes, my cranking noise got really weird and crank speed slowed down significantly. I thought it might be dead batteries, but even hooked up to a charger it was still slow crank and dash lights flickering. The engine started to smell burnt and turns out I ended up frying the starter. Around the same time, I started to get TBC faulty. I don't understand how the trailer brake would tie into the HPOS?

Anyways, I ended up buying a new starter and swapping that in and still getting the same results. Slow cranking, dash lights flashing, TBC Faulty, Edge CTS screen flashing white, etc... I charged the batteries for some time just to make sure that they were producing enough power and even cranked with the batteries hooked up. After the tuner started flashing, I decided I would try to turn the truck back to stock and disconnect the entire tuner to see if that would be helpful at all. The truck does crank quicker and sounds/feels like it should when cranking, but still getting my gauges to die out and all lights to flicker on dash after about 10-15 seconds of crank.

I called the shop that did diagnostic and they said it could be a faulty starter from the box or I can bring in the truck and they can diagnose again. I don't have the money to get it towed yet again, and for the shop to do another diagnostic (which may not even fix the issue again).

I don't mind doing the work myself and or testing any parts. I'm just not sure what I should test or where to begin looking for the issue. Ive done a lot of research and spent a headache amount of time. I use the truck for work and its been sitting over a week.

If anyone has experienced something similar or might have even the slightest clue that would be so awesome to hear it!! Im really lost with this and its been a PITA! When I ask other people with mechanic experience or any diesel experience, they'll usually reply with "its a Ford" or "buy a dodge" <<<< eeeeeeek! Please help!!
 

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Your batteries are dead. 100%. Charge them up overnight if you have an automatic charger. If not, charge them on a 7A or 5A type charge for like 4-5 hours. Just keep an eye on them so you don't overcharge them.


What's the battery voltage and cranking voltage? Take a reading across the terminals on either battery (they're in parallel) and make sure you have 11.5 - 13.5V key on engine off and no less than 10.5-11V while cranking.

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Also make sure the crossover wire that connects one positive terminal to the other isn't damaged. In that case, the battery on the starter side will charge if the charger is on that one, but the battery that powers the FICM, cluster, and everything else will be dead.

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Best thing to do is to read the stickies on no starts.

I would suspect it is the IPR Screen, STC fittings, stand pipes and dummy plugs. I think you already changed those.

IMO....... bring the starter and batteries to your local parts store to have them both tested. If they both test good, get a scanner to confirm it is a high pressure oil leak. If it is a high pressure oil leak, then air test to see where the leak is coming from. Slow crank could be something else like a seized A/C compressor. Also, make sure the low pressure oil gauge moves which will show low pressure oil in the system.

The "Buy a Dodge" is a cop out and probably not coming from a good diesel mechanic. No truck is problem free. The good thing about a 6.0 is there are about five common things to fix to make them "Bulletproof," but I can't find a list like that for the other manufacturers, so to me they suffer from random, not common problems. Millions of 6.0s on the road and the ones that don't work end up getting posts on the forum to fix. Hardly do you ever see a post saying my truck is doing great. What's the reason to post that?
 

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Your batteries are dead. 100%. Charge them up overnight if you have an automatic charger. If not, charge them on a 7A or 5A type charge for like 4-5 hours. Just keep an eye on them so you don't overcharge them.


What's the battery voltage and cranking voltage? Take a reading across the terminals on either battery (they're in parallel) and make sure you have 11.5 - 13.5V key on engine off and no less than 10.5-11V while cranking.

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Agreed. Get the batteries load tested (replace them if bad), put a meter on your alternator and make sure it's putting out good voltage, then go from there troubleshooting your no start. One step at a time...

-jokester
 
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Agreed. Get the batteries load tested (replace them if bad), put a meter on your alternator and make sure it's putting out good voltage, then go from there troubleshooting your no start. One step at a time...



-jokester


What voltage should my alternator put out when not started or cranking?


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Agreed. Get the batteries load tested (replace them if bad), put a meter on your alternator and make sure it's putting out good voltage, then go from there troubleshooting your no start. One step at a time...



-jokester


What voltage should my alternator put out when not started or cranking?


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Duh...no start - D'OH! :grin: Guess I should have said, while you have your batteries tested, take the alternator to be tested as well and make sure it's putting out proper voltage. Kinda hard to put a meter on it when it won't run LOL.

-jokester
 
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