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Discussion Starter #41
Yeah im sure it'd be so much louder lol. Welp, looks like I'm taking it apart again. I'm sure I've got to find something on that injector when I pull it. Ill report back with findings when I do
 

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Discussion Starter #42
So, I've pulled 2 injectors so far. It seems that when I push the injector into the oil rail upside down and hold all the other nipples with my fingers (and help from another person) some air blows out of the two small holes on the sides of main port. I'm assuming my fingers can't hold more than 15 psi. Are those smaller holes on the sides, the drain ports for the injector when the spool moves? And should I have air blowing out of those holes? I'm pretty dang sure this is where I'm losing pressure. I filled the empty spaces around the ball cups up with a water / dawn soap solution and i dont see any bubbles coming from the cups when i pressurize it either. So i can only assume its either those two small holes or the actual black o ring inside the injector leaking.
 

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Yes, those are the injector drain holes -- there should be only minimal air leaking from them
since the spool is a precision fit with no seals, some air will escape, but only a little
in your vid it sounded like a lot was escaping

You have the old ball cups? could rig up and individual pressure tester to find the injector that is leaking
you would need to make a jig to hold the cup in place so you can apply full pressure
I suppose the jig would depend if your more inclined to work with wood or metal
but it does not need to be complicated -- use the supplies at hand
 

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Discussion Starter #44
I do have the old cups. Now that you mention using the oil cups as a means to pressure test the injectors, i believe i could make that work with what I've got! I should be able to test all of them out tomorrow 😁
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Update: ive tested all 4 on the passenger side. I'll call them 1-4 from front of truck to the back. I'll state the psi that itll hold before i hear it leak from the small ports on the top


#1 won't hold 2 psi
#2 holds 10 psi
#3 holds 18 psi
#4 holds 80 psi no air leaking

Does this mean I have 3 of the 4 injectors bad on the passenger side? Lol that would break the bank seems the #4 holds all the air I can put into it
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Another update: #5-8 on drivers side front to back

#5 new OEM reman

#6 has a small screen on bottom of injector, one of the 4 is blown out and missing (probably with old engine parts) only holds 20 psi before leaking

#7 holds 80 psi no leaks

#8 leaks at 2 psi

Lol so wow I need 5 injectors!???!?!?
 

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What is up with those lower o-rings? they look all chewed up
the screen is the last defense for junk - kinda curious where it went

Interesting results with your air testing
something to try: the spool valve can move easily in the bore
try tapping the injector on your work bench to make the spool move to the end with the black/white wire
that should be the closed position -- the spool only moves about .020 inch
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Yeah every single injector that I pulled out looked like that. Ive replaced 4 of the 8 so far. It feels chalky like they were getting combustion gasses. I believe that screen was part of the trash in the engine when It was totaled. Im gonna assume this since I haven been able to get it started since I rebuilt it all.

With the black and white wires, you mean put 12v to them? To actuate the spool? Or do you mean to physically tap on the side of it?

Here are two videos showing the difference in pressures when i tested what I called a good one and a bad one


 

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Def a lot more leaking from that last injector, I think if you took it to 80 psi it would have spewed -- would a little oil in the inlet hold tho?
Since you are seeing scarring on the spool, that is where the leak is coming from -- if you look at the center cut area on the spool, those lands on each side are what stops the high pressure oil
Possibly from metal contamination from before out of the engine

The broken plastic may not be a problem, tho not good -- the return oil is to the outer lands on the spool - so not a lot of pressure
The single cut on the solenoid coil is there to help with stiction problem

I found a half decent picture of the spool area

768334
 

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Discussion Starter #52 (Edited)
I filled the injectors with oil, then applied air pressure to them. They all seemed to hold a significantly more amount of pressure. I could hold 95 psi on all of them except #1. I bought a reman yesterday and installed it. I held the air on the injectors for about 45 sec each and they held the oil. After I installed everything I filled the rails up with oil and tried to crank it. I STILL was unable to start the truck. I am starting to have doubts that I actually have enough oil pressure. I'm not 100% sure of where the oil all travels in the crank but I just feel that I have oil flow (volume) but not pressure on the low side.

I plug a pressure gauge into the pressure sensor port behind the filter housing and im not getting anything. When i unscrew the hose i see enough volume flowing out but I feel like it's getting eaten up somewhere and dumped back into the crank

I also just read a post about a alleged plug in the HPOP causing the HPOP reservoir to drain below the screen and not stay full. A week ago I had taken the oil cooler off and noticed the reservoir was below the level of the screen. I assumed this was because I had a HPOP leak. Does the HPOP reservoir stay full???? I dumped a little oil in there when I had it off and it drained out back to just below the screen. This is normal?
 

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OK, may be a good thing it will not start - we dont want to run an engine with no oil pressure
the ball plug in the hpop is for the older version, you should have the 4 cylinder V style
but to answer the question, the reservoir should stay filled -- should be about 2 quarts

At this point I think chasing the oil situation would be the most important path
it is possible the hpop has came loose and the o-ring on the bottom is blown
I think it would be best to investigate the hpop in light of the reservoir not staying filled
 

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Discussion Starter #55
As part of the rebuild I went ahead and bought a new HPOP even though now realizing I probably didn't need to and it was still good lol. Either way, when I installed the new one, I was very careful when I placed the yellow o ring and smaller black o ring for the STC. Could the new pump have come with a missing plug somewhere? I dont remember looking at the bottom of the HPOP to see if there would be some sort of plug or something
 

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How did you determine you had a leaking injector? Did the air sound like it was coming from under the valley? My engine is completely rebuilt, wouldn't start after rebuild and after tearing back into it and troubleshooting everything ended up being the new hpop was bad. So I put a new one and started right up just wouldn't make as high and steady high pressure as my tuner would like, so I replaced that pump for another and pressure went up a little, still wasn't steady but then started hot no start issues. I still drove it on weekends for a while as long as I didn't have to turn it off but finally tore back into it this weekend. Hooked air to hpop and had massive amounts of air coming out of both valve covers, pulled turbo and hpop cover and hooked air back up. Doesn't seem to be coming from the oil rails, branch tubes or stand pipes. I rebuilt the oil rails during rebuild, I already had updated stand pipes and dummy plugs but put new ones anyway and have all new injectors. Air seems to be coming from under the hpop so after reading your thread again I'm thinking I have leaking injectors.
 

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Crank it and build high pressure oil over 500 if possible. Then air test again, sometimes if you do the air test immediately after having the rails off the nipple cups will leak. I've had it happen many times.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #58
I have another thread that pretty much shows all my progress with what I've done so far, and what I've discovered. It shows some videos of me pressure testing the injectors. I've yet to discover the actual issue causing a no start yet but I've pretty much eliminated all my HPOP leaks.

I used a spare ball cup from the oil rail to with a hose clamped on the end and a pressure regulator. Also drilled into a 4"x4" wood block to hold the injector while I pressurized it

 

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Did you use the updated STC fitting?

The only way the oil level would drop below the screen under the oil cooler would be the o-ring under the hpop or the jumper tube from the reservoir to the pump is cracked

The pump sits above the oil level at the screen, so looking lower
you can remove the pump and the oil filter stand pipe -- then place your finger over the pump port and pour some oil into the stand pipe
this will go into the reservoir -- there should be no leaks -- short of that you would need to pull the oil cooler again and inspect the reservoir
 

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Discussion Starter #60
So I'm starting to tear into the truck. Thought I'd post a pic of the oil cooler before I get further. I'm going to try and plug my finger over the fill hole in the block coming from the gerotor to see if I indeed have low oil pressure. But this is all the oil in the reservoir, I did in fact crank on it for quite a while the other day so it should be full right? Or atleasr a bunch more than this?
 
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