Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum banner

1 - 20 of 85 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
hi everyone,
I havent posted on this site before but I look to it for help on my truck. I'm pretty desperate so I could use some advise.

So here's the story, I bought a 2005 6.0L that was totalled. They blew a turbo and had it replaced, when they drove it off the shops lot, not 10 miles down the road the truck died. Thats pretty much all I knew at the time. So after tearing it apart I find out that the low pressure oil pump failed and destroyed a couple main bearings and connecting rods. The block itself seemed fine except for one of the cylinders. I had to have it honed out to 30 over. The truck mustve been having some blow by as well.

Anyway, I have since replaced the crankshaft, main bearings, all connecting rod bearings and 2 connecting rods with oversize pistons. I also replaced the camshaft bearings. The bearings for the crankshaft were 50mm over on the connecting rods and OEM on the mains. I have replaced the oil cooler, HPOP, Gerotor gear along with front cover (old gerotor gear destroyed housing). It egr is already deleted, i replaced the IPR as well along with a new starter. I replaced the screen for the HPOP reservoir below the oil cooler. And obviously almost 100% of the gaskets are new as well. I have checked the FICM voltage at .23 v. I also replaced main rear and front seal since crankshaft was replaced. The truck cranks and will not build oil pressure still for some reason. I also replaced oil dummy plugs and upgraded those as well. I replaced a few of the rocker arm clips too (not sure if that's relevant)

I also checked the oile filter housing and cranked the truck when I had the filter out and the drain pushed down with a screw driver. It seemed to fill up quite quickly so Its hard for me to think the low pressure is too low.

Please help!!!!!!!
 

·
Mr. Crossthread
Joined
·
4,512 Posts
How long have you been cranking on it? After a rebuild it can take awhile to build pressure again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I've cranked on it over 30 times the last 2 days. I gave it a little squirt of ether and it tried to start fired the ether but i know how bad that can be for it so I havent done it since. I removed the turbo yesterday and the IPR and cranked on it to see if any oil comes out of the HPOP and I didn't see any. This is with the new HPOP and I assumed it was because it needs to be a sealed system in order for it to build pressure. I also removed the HPOP to see if oil is actually moving through the oil cooler and it is in fact doing that. Ill get oil through the turbo line at the same time as I get oil to the HPOP
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Also, I tried to upload a slow mo video of my Gerotor but the file was too big so I uploaded it to YouTube. Here is the link



Does anyone think this looks off or different than it should?
 

·
Mr. Crossthread
Joined
·
4,512 Posts
What is the ICP and IPR% while cranking?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
ICP voltage is .23 KOEO and .23 while ceanking. IPR was at 85% while cranking but has since been replaced. I borrowed the snap-on tool so I don't have it right now to test the new one
 

·
Mr. Crossthread
Joined
·
4,512 Posts
I would air test the hpo system since its already apart. If you're getting oil to the hpop but nothing out of the hpop, one would assume it needs a pump but its not usual for the 05+. Triple check low pressure oil to the pump, and make sure your o rings are in place for the pump. What brand of HPOP went in?

To air test without a scanner you can jump power to the IPR to shut it, or test through the IPR port.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I attached a pressure gauge to the oil cooler housing and was getting very minimal readings. I was told it should be about 30 psi. I was going to change out the fitting and gauge to verify that those aren't giving me false readings. If my low pressure oil was the issue, I dont understand what would be causing it. The crank case literally has all new parts and tolerances were checked by plastigauge before i installed. The HPOP that I replaced was only 6 months old before the engine blew. I replaced it with a ford OEM. One thing that I thought was important was when I removed the oil filter and pushed the plunger in and cranked it, the housing filled up faster than other video's i saw on YouTube so I naturally assumed the pressure is fine. Could I still have low pressure but normal volume of oil to the filter?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,837 Posts
Couple things I find odd. First is the FICM voltage of .23. It should be 46 VDC or greater at all times: KOEO, cranking, and KOER. The second thing is the ICP voltage is ,23 VDC and it looks like its that KOEO and cranking. It should go up as it is cranked. That could be a ICP sensor, wiring, or pigtail problem, or perhaps there really is no high pressure oil. No low pressure oil = no high pressure oil. I think the next step ought to be a low pressure oil check, but the port is not easy to get to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Couple things I find odd. First is the FICM voltage of .23. It should be 46 VDC or greater at all times: KOEO, cranking, and KOER. The second thing is the ICP voltage is ,23 VDC and it looks like its that KOEO and cranking. It should go up as it is cranked. That could be a ICP sensor, wiring, or pigtail problem, or perhaps there really is no high pressure oil. No low pressure oil = no high pressure oil. I think the next step ought to be a low pressure oil check, but the port is not easy to get to.
Thanks for responding! I made a typo and put .23 for the FICM when it was in fact at 48.5-49v. Is the low pressure oil port the one that sits on the oil cooler housing or is there another port that sits lower? I will also check ICP sensor today as well
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,837 Posts
Thanks for responding! I made a typo and put .23 for the FICM when it was in fact at 48.5-49v. Is the low pressure oil port the one that sits on the oil cooler housing or is there another port that sits lower? I will also check ICP sensor today as well
It does sit on the oil cooler housing. I went to look at it the other day and the location does not make it easy to get to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Agreed on the location! Seems like a terrible spot. So with everything together I should be getting 20-30 psi while cranking from that port?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,837 Posts
The only thing I have to go off off is the ford specs, which I think are: kPa (12 psi) at 700 rpm, 165.5 kPa (24 psi) at 1,200 rpm and 310.3 kPa (45 psi) at 1,800 rpm with the engine at operating temperature. Cranking cold, I could only guess at. I’m getting ready to put in a low pressure oil pressure gauge to add to my edge CTS.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
115 Posts
Have you solved your issue?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I have not, still trying to figure out whats going on. I re sealed the nipple cups in the oil rails and now my icp reads 6-8 psi KOEO. So i nightie solved that one issue but still a no start
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
So of anyone is still watching this heres an update. I bought a new injector today for the driver side #1. Old one was damaged and seals were bleeding air. I just finished putting everything together and put air through the hpop system again and seems like the driver side isn't leaking anymore. This is after I replaced all the oil rail nipple o rings as well. It now seems like I have a leak on my passenger side #2. How can I confirm 100% that it's another injector leaking or the new o rings i put on the oil rails? I really don't want to rebuild an injector or spend money on another one
 

·
Compression Ignition Addict
Joined
·
5,865 Posts
Holding atmospheric pressure is a given. That is as low as it will go without putting a vacuum pump on it.
 
1 - 20 of 85 Posts
Top