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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
solid crank when starting but no base oil pressure. new batteries, alternator, icp, ipr, egr delete, new injectors.. lets just say i have been through this thing. there is nothing my solus ultra isnt showing me. no codes, icp and ipr are fine, but no base oil pressure. clogged oil cooler? from before it was deleted? they guy just changed his oil and didnt want me to change it..there isnt much i havent done to this except for change the oil cooler. it has bypass oil and bypass coolant filters. its just odd. i had a buddy crank it while i held down the spring in the oil filter housing, and this **** was grey.. it was not fresh rotella that i poured in.. grey. and thick as **** too.. any ideas?? i just dont know what else to look for.. im at my diagnostic end with it. its not electrical..
LPOP?? its never had a problem before. this grey **** has got me thinkin tho.. 185k on the odo, new fuel filters, the works..
 

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If it's got grey oil that sounds like something has been mixing with the oil?? Did they guy add something to the oil? A clogged oil cooler doesn't stop oil flow it stops or severly slows coolant flow thus overheating the oil that flows under it. I would start at the LPOP and check to see if it is plugged up or something is stuck inside it. Also might want to pull the oil pans and check the LPOP pick up tube and see if there is anything out of the ordinary in the pan.
 

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Also what all was the customer complaining of before he brought the truck in? If he was having hot no start issues related to the HPO system having leaks I'm wondering if he didn't try to add something to the oil to thicken it up to stop the leaks or thicken the oil enough that when hot it would still start. Maybe that was his temporary fix. It would also explain the grey thick oil in the system. I'm wondering if the overly thick oil either trashed the LPOP or plugged the oil gallies.
 

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That really sounds like maybe left over coolant not flushed out after a oil cooler rupture. New oil mixed with coolant makes a grey milkshake consistancy.
 

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Yeah but Danny coolant would dilute the oil and make it thinner. He said it was really thick. Also look at the list of all the hpo system parts he replaced. That's what made me guess the hpo leaks were the root cause for the truck going in the shop in the first place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ya this thing came in with a blown egr.. the guy didnt have a lot of money to do it, so my plain basic egr delete kit is $650.. i did it. i always recommend a new oil cooler at that time and a new ipr. just for me and not having to undo what ive already done. in a shop it makes a big difference. same cost less time. anyway, resealed everything, it ran fine. it started running rough, so i changed out 4 injectors bc my solus ultra showed them to be pretty bad and not just a cold start issue like stiction. i added rev-x after the injectors, and when i did the injectors, i did new stand pipes and dummy plugs. all was well. it quit on him about a week ago and it got trailered in. the ipr had never been changed, and it truly was bad. i replaced it and changed the oil from JOHN DEERE 30W to rotella 15w40.. all this happened after he switched to the JD oil. there was no metal in the oil pan that ive seen. it doesnt crank oddly.. it sounds really good. it just wont bust over. FICM is good. both it and the pcm have the latest ford strategies. the ficm does sync. when i depress the spring in the oil filter housing, it fills quickly. it drains fine as well. i am flat stuck...
 

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Coolant will cause oil to "goop up". It will thin out the oil when the oil is hot, but turn it into a thin "pudding-like" cosistency when the engine is cool-cold. Also overcooling of the engine will cause excessive condensation in the engine oil (if a CCV mod has been done, this would not apply). Can be seen seen in smaller diesel engines, very common in large diesel engines. Pull the oil fill plug and see if there are signs on the bottom of the plug. If there is alot on th ecap or down in the tube- condensation is most likely the issue. Work on Cat engines (for a CAT dealer) for a living and those are the only 2 things I have ever seen change engine oil grey.
 

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Yup and if ya run em long enough the agitation of the crank will turn it into p-nut butter.

Did you check for combustion gas getting in the fuel rail and maybe pushing the fuel out the rails?
 

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Let it sit overnight and pull the drain plug in the morning. Look at whatever comes out AS SOON AS you pull the plug. I'll bet you will probably see some coolant. If there is a lot of coolant at the bottom of the pan, the oil pump may not be able to suck the coolant up. Pressure check the cooling system next. It may be possible a bad head gasket hydrolocked a cylinder, and in the time of trailering it in, the coolant leaked down past the rings.
 

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Nope..........fuel filter base valve is brown. The only other easy thing to remove and inspect would be the oil pump relief valve (located behind the crank pulley). On my truck it is an Allen head plug. Still, more important is the grey oil......... there is water/coolant in there somehow.
If the system is not losing coolant, it must be leftover from previous failure. That contaminated oil will cling to every nook and crannie. It may take several oil changes, or a long hard pull (trip with a heavy trailer) to build enough heat in the engine to "cook" the coolant out.
Make sure the cooling fan is plugged in and working correctly- that would be your source of "overcooling" creating condensation in the oil. See how long the driver runs the truck. Short in town trips, or long highway driving. Short in town driving with a fan locked up will definitely cause an overcooling. He should have been able to hear the fan running while driving.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'm pulling the oil cooler off tomorrow. I bet that **** has clogged it, which would stop base oil pressure to send to the HPOP. That's my thinking anyway. The filter housing is where I'm finding it so I might as well go south with my searching. Even in the drain pan, bc I went through every ounce of the old oil, there was a layer of **** in it,


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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
now another one is doing it. the only previous thing done to it are afe intake, 4" exhaust and h&s mini maxx on an 06 6.0. no base oil pressure. the truck ran fine yesterday, it wouldnt restart this morning. wtf is causing this??
 

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Both trucks have coolant/water in the oil and both have no base pressure? May just be a weird cowinkydink! Have you tried pressurizing the cooling system? Does it lose pressure when you do? Wouldn't explain the no start, but would confirm an internal coolant leak causing the oil to goo up. Have you tried draining the oil pan yet to see if you have coolant/water running out? I have seen pumps that are not strong enough to suck coolant/water, but will suck "milk" up and pump it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
update... pulled the crankshaft pulley and looked at both rings on the oil pump. neither were scored, worn, or anything. the second one is the other guinea pig, and ive changed the oil pressure regulator and oil pressure switch. gonna give that a try too. man im stumped on this one. i have two bays and a bunch of **** lining up. trying to get everything out of here. these two are kicking my ***. any other ideas?? btw... there was a bit of coolant on the oil rings as well. but nothing in the pan... wtf is going on???
 

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Coolant in the oil can come from holes in the front cover behind the water pump. Did the trucks have the proper coolant in them?

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I have an 05 with a similar problem. Coolant looks like oil and oil seems fine though. I have everything else I need to start this thing. but it will not start.
You have a different problem, oil in the coolant. That is usually from a blown oil cooler, or transmission fluid from a bad radiator. Both scenarios are different.

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Had a similar problem with no start after changing the egr/oil cooler, found the cam sensor to be bad, put in a new one and starts fine now. Don't know what one has to do with the other but it is worth checking.
 
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