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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok so here is whats going on, about this time last year i noticed that my truck was taking longer to start than normal. Well after living with it for 6 months I had a very rough idle when cold and also a missing when warm, 3
injectors went out (4,5,6), so i replaced them.
Well about two days after replacing the injectors it started having long cranks till start and very rough idle, as well as bucking and jerking under light throttle until engine reached full temp. I started searching forums and never really found anyone with the exact same issues or that the issues didn't clear up, so I started to replace parts to try to correct the issue.

Please note that this entire time the truck has only shown a CE light once, noted below.

Below is the list of parts that i have replaced/upgraded so far in chronological order all issues still remain and have not changed at all:

All filters and fluids
Injectors - same 3 as before
Blue Spring Fuel Regulator Upgrade
Replaced MAP Sensor
Cleaned MAF Sensor
FICM Roll Back Tuning by Innovative Diesel
FICM Full Board Inspection and Resolder
FICM 10k Upgrade
Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor
Cleaned VGT
Replaced all 8 injectors- got a injector circuit low Cylinder 4, just 1 month after replacing the last three.

Below is a snap shot of the cylinder contribution test i ran after the truck set for 12 hours today at 80* outside after engine idled for 2 mins.


Below is a snap shot of the cylinder contribution test after it running 5 mins.


Below is a snap shot of the cylinder contribution test after it running 10 mins.


And finally here is a snap shot of various sensors that i felt pertained to the issue, after the truck ran for 15 mins. (besides for injection pressure being higher i.e. 1000#, and engine oil at start up was at 79* all other sensors were unchanged from start up)


Well thats all the info i have for now, if anyone has any ideas or wants to see some other data please let me know. I'm at my wits end with this truck its just not reliable. :banghead:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Ok so I think I narrowed the blue smoke down to turbo failing, tore apart turbo and have oil inside compressor housing cover. But I still have no clue on the idle or missing, friend said it might be IPR but just wanna make sure first.

Anyone have any input at all?!?!?
 

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Make sure your ficm connectors are seated well. Do you have a monitor? Who repaired your ficm?

Sent from my phone that somebody didn't help me get.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I seated all three till they clicked, I even tried to pull them out after I installed them without squeezing the tabs and couldn't remove them. I do have AE as a monitor, that's how I got the screen shots. I don't know if I uploaded the pictures right I don't know if they are visible to everyone or not. Please let me know if you can see them, looking at the post this morning on my phone I can't see them.
I repaired the FICM myself, I did the basic resolder that is all over the forum as well as reflowed solder on some 20 odds joints on top of the board that looked questionable. I also upgraded the caps to 63v when I did the 10k resistor mod on the board.
 

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I do apologize, obviously you have a monitor, i'm following other threads. Lol. I believe you have the symtoms of a failing ficm, I know thats not what you want to hear. Have you checked your fuel pressure, do you have the blue spring update?

Sent from my phone that somebody didn't help me get.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I do apologize, obviously you have a monitor, i'm following other threads. Lol. I believe you have the symtoms of a failing ficm, I know thats not what you want to hear. Have you checked your fuel pressure, do you have the blue spring update?

Sent from my phone that somebody didn't help me get.
Yes I do have the blue spring update, I have not checked fuel pressure yet though.
I was thinking it was FICM related, I have been trying to find someone locally that has one that we could swap in and see.

The only thing that is making me question it is that when you start it after it has set all night it acts like it has no oil in the rails you have to crank for about 20-30 sec the whole time it acts like its trying to start almost like an old carb gas motor with the choke off. I will try and upload a video of it this weekend.
 

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I believe it is a good idea to verify fuel pressure after the install. Cold hard starts are overwhelmingly attributed to ficm failures. Ed @ ficmrepair.com has great feedback. If you are concerned about hpo leaks, monitor ipr, and icp while cranking and running. Your batteries should be load tested anytime you suspect ficm, or need to replace it.

Sent from my phone that somebody didn't help me get.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
After looking back at my HPOP system data here on my Excel spreadsheet I really don't think its oil related. Desired injector pressure and actual pressure follow each other by no more than 5# delta. The only reason I really questioned it was because when I disconnected the ICP it would start after 5 sec but sound like a rod knocking. I will check with ed and try to send in my FICM next week. Heck for his price you can't beat it, I just don't wanna keep spending money to repair or replace things that arent broken!
 

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Yes, I understand that, maybe your hearing injector knock, from improperly functioning ficm, or fuel pressure problems? It can be hideous sometimes. Also, alot of us run rotella t6 oil. Make sure you have motorcraft filters with matching caps too.

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Discussion Starter #10
I run Royal Purple 15 w40 pretty much year ound since we don't really get below 30* here. And I also run WIX oil filters with the taller filter as well as motorcraft fuel filters that have the little membrane on them.

I will try to get the fuel pressure its running both at KOEO and at KOER, this weekend when I get off location.
 

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I run Royal Purple 15 w40 pretty much year ound since we don't really get below 30* here. And I also run WIX oil filters with the taller filter as well as motorcraft fuel filters that have the little membrane on them.

I will try to get the fuel pressure its running both at KOEO and at KOER, this weekend when I get off location.
Whoa, I suggest you look up some threads about royal purple and t6. Also your filter may be a problem. Read this, watch the video.........http://www.dieselfiltersonline.com/ford-6-0-liter-turbo-diesel-truck-filters.aspx

Sent from my phone that somebody didn't help me get.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Wow that's freaking scary!!!! I will be changing filters and oil this weekend I will not be going back. That's just sad that companies can produce things like that!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok so here is the update, and I'm really not proud at all that I have been doin this for the past few years. After replacing all filters and changing the oil to rotella t6 and adding the Ford powerstoke fuel additive, she is starting better and better. It doesn't feel like its having to compress air anymore. I really don't know why companies can even sell filters that don't fit our trucks.

Well after running it most of the weekend my long starts are completely fixed, or so it seams but I still Di have an issue with a rough idle and a slight miss till she warms up completely, which I'm thinking is related to some injector stiction that was caused by the oil I was running.

Thank you again for the help I definitely feel a little on the stupid side for not knowing it.
 

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Just curious, where did you get the injectors?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
They are just the cardone remans from oriellys.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok so I know this thread is really old by now but just wanted to give a good update. Over the last year the truck only got worse and worse with the rough starts, taking upwards of 30 mins to run well enough to even drive. Over the last year I have completely rebuilt the top end of the motor from the head gaskets up with the exception of replacing glow plug, i.e. new oil cooler, new injectors, new hpop, new IPR, all new sensors, new everything except for glow plugs because they tested good, I even replaced the FICM. Well after finally getting fed up I decided to replace the glow plugs and glow plug controller as well as harnesses. After replacing these the truck is truly fixed. No more hard starts, no more long warm ups, getting 23-25 mpg again. Moral of the story just because a voltmeter and a computer software says something is good don't think it really is.
 

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Ok so I know this thread is really old by now but just wanted to give a good update. Over the last year the truck only got worse and worse with the rough starts, taking upwards of 30 mins to run well enough to even drive. Over the last year I have completely rebuilt the top end of the motor from the head gaskets up with the exception of replacing glow plug, i.e. new oil cooler, new injectors, new hpop, new IPR, all new sensors, new everything except for glow plugs because they tested good, I even replaced the FICM. Well after finally getting fed up I decided to replace the glow plugs and glow plug controller as well as harnesses. After replacing these the truck is truly fixed. No more hard starts, no more long warm ups, getting 23-25 mpg again. Moral of the story just because a voltmeter and a computer software says something is good don't think it really is.
So read this thread in its entirety and didn't realize it was a year old until your last post. Lol. Anyways, have a random question. I'm assuming the 22-25 is hwy driving, but what's your city mpg now that you've done the glow plugs? My drive is hwy/city and seeing around 13/14.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So read this thread in its entirety and didn't realize it was a year old until your last post. Lol. Anyways, have a random question. I'm assuming the 22-25 is hwy driving, but what's your city mpg now that you've done the glow plugs? My drive is hwy/city and seeing around 13/14.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Since I have replaced the glow plugs the truck is averaging around 20+ in what I call city which where I live is really just driving below 55 mph
 
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