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I'm looking at purchasing a 2004 low mile F250. Guy says AC doesn't blow that cold and hasn't since he has owned it. Worst case if I had to replace the AC in the truck, what $$$ am I looking at?

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I'm just spitballing, but I'd say $1000-$1200 for total replacement, maybe. I'd do a leak test and charge it first thing, though.

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I recently replaced every component in my AC system. I spent 900.00 in parts all OEM.

Compressor, both lines, evaporator, accumulator, condenser, orifice tube valve and both low and high pressure switches.

I'm sure you probably don't need to do it to that extent, but if you did that is the cost in parts. I would start by checking pressures and/or leak test to see what is up with the system.

I did all the work myself and it took around 10hrs with a few breaks.

Good Luck
 

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I actually paid $500 for a New Dryer and new AC Freon filter in the tube— and the AC works. Is it optimal? No— but it does get my Double CAB cool in 100 degrees. I would drive the truck 2-3 hours to the nearest POWERSTROKE specialty shop… Most dealers do not have qualified staff in their shops— if they have 5 mechanics— there be one only worth their salt… Specialty shops—- call them— and drill them over the telephone…. After a few shops— you will get one that is willing to fix it or you get to go free with a $100 fee for troubling shooting for two hours. Just my two cents… Too many amateurs…
 

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I'm looking at purchasing a 2004 low mile F250. Guy says AC doesn't blow that cold and hasn't since he has owned it. Worst case if I had to replace the AC in the truck, what $$$ am I looking at?

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i paid 1200 to a shop with 130\hr labor
all oem
new compressor
new lines, orifice and charging
 

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Seller believes its just a compressor, is it best to just do everything being a 17yo truck or parts to get it back working.

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to me it would be
my seller said, ya the ac doesnt work but its fine

turns out the old compressor was so bad it could've locked the engine at any moment. The preverbal ticking time bomb
i do some work myself but my truck was already in the shop for a new hpop and oil cooler, so i just let them go at it. and they warranty the parts and work done.
i know i payed a premium but i also like peace of mind
 

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Seller believes its just a compressor, is it best to just do everything being a 17yo truck or parts to get it back working.

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That would be my concern and take as well. The accumulator is the major issue over time because the insides come apart, in turn plugging the orifice valve. With a bad compressor now comes COMPLETE flushing of the system and you'll never get everything out. Absolutely necessary to flush? No but it's a chance you'll take.

Aside from that, how long was it inoperable? Was the system opened or ever serviced? Lots of questions you'll never really answer, and you take the chance of spending money just to end up where you're at due to a new failed component from an already faulty system.

Some people suggest blowing lines and condenser out with air. The minute you introduce shop air to blow all lines out etc, you introduce moisture which kills AC systems. Yes it is done all the time and it works, yes the vacuum pump should clear it out, but not the chance I wanted to take. I know the job looked like a major PITA when I looked but it is not bad.

I am no AC savant but I have a pretty good idea now that I broke my back doing it all 🤣

"If" you do it yourself, the biggest PITA was the evaporator. It requires total splitting of the housing it is in, careful removal without tearing your hands apart and install is even trickier since you don't want to destroy the new aluminum unit.

I would be happy to share any info I have (part #'s etc) or even the stuff I learned from doing it.....just hit me up if you need it.

Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
That would be my concern and take as well. The accumulator is the major issue over time because the insides come apart, in turn plugging the orifice valve. With a bad compressor now comes COMPLETE flushing of the system and you'll never get everything out. Absolutely necessary to flush? No but it's a chance you'll take.

Aside from that, how long was it inoperable? Was the system opened or ever serviced? Lots of questions you'll never really answer, and you take the chance of spending money just to end up where you're at due to a new failed component from an already faulty system.

Some people suggest blowing lines and condenser out with air. The minute you introduce shop air to blow all lines out etc, you introduce moisture which kills AC systems. Yes it is done all the time and it works, yes the vacuum pump should clear it out, but not the chance I wanted to take. I know the job looked like a major PITA when I looked but it is not bad.

I am no AC savant but I have a pretty good idea now that I broke my back doing it all

"If" you do it yourself, the biggest PITA was the evaporator. It requires total splitting of the housing it is in, careful removal without tearing your hands apart and install is even trickier since you don't want to destroy the new aluminum unit.

I would be happy to share any info I have (part #'s etc) or even the stuff I learned from doing it.....just hit me up if you need it.

Good Luck
Thank you Sir

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That would be my concern and take as well. The accumulator is the major issue over time because the insides come apart, in turn plugging the orifice valve. With a bad compressor now comes COMPLETE flushing of the system and you'll never get everything out. Absolutely necessary to flush? No but it's a chance you'll take.

Aside from that, how long was it inoperable? Was the system opened or ever serviced? Lots of questions you'll never really answer, and you take the chance of spending money just to end up where you're at due to a new failed component from an already faulty system.

Some people suggest blowing lines and condenser out with air. The minute you introduce shop air to blow all lines out etc, you introduce moisture which kills AC systems. Yes it is done all the time and it works, yes the vacuum pump should clear it out, but not the chance I wanted to take. I know the job looked like a major PITA when I looked but it is not bad.

I am no AC savant but I have a pretty good idea now that I broke my back doing it all

"If" you do it yourself, the biggest PITA was the evaporator. It requires total splitting of the housing it is in, careful removal without tearing your hands apart and install is even trickier since you don't want to destroy the new aluminum unit.

I would be happy to share any info I have (part #'s etc) or even the stuff I learned from doing it.....just hit me up if you need it.

Good Luck
Do you have a water separator on you shop compressor? That should prevent adding moisture to the system.

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Yes but you can never eliminate all moisture entering the system.
I am not expert, just my opinion take it for what it's worth. (y)
 

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I recently replaced every component in my AC system. I spent 900.00 in parts all OEM.

Compressor, both lines, evaporator, accumulator, condenser, orifice tube valve and both low and high pressure switches.

I'm sure you probably don't need to do it to that extent, but if you did that is the cost in parts. I would start by checking pressures and/or leak test to see what is up with the system.

I did all the work myself and it took around 10hrs with a few breaks.

Good Luck
I am starting to feel my AC blowing damp air out when im at stop lights once every few days and im pretty sure the compressor is going out. the other thing that happened the other day, is the climate control panel wouldnt display anything... no ext temp or nothing. i would have to shut off the truck and turn it back on for the panel to work again.

Im totally being a lazy *** about this but would you share all the part numbers for "Compressor, both lines, evaporator, accumulator, condenser, orifice tube valve and both low and high pressure switches."
 

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YCC492 - compressor ROCK AUTO (RA)
YJ596- Condenser RA
YK199- Evaporator RA
YF3194- Low pressure line RA
YF38013- High pressure line (compressor) RA
YG346- orifice tube valve RA
YF37399- Accumulator RA
YH7015- High pressure switch (goes on YF38013 line) RA
F5VH19E561AA- Low pressure switch (discontinued but found on ebay) ebay Ford OEM Motorcraft A/C Clutch Cycle Switch F5VH-19E561-AA / 95BW-19e561-AA *NEW | eBay

PAG 46 oil is needed and I bought off amazon but used super cool products https://www.amazon.com/TSI-Supercoo...ywords=supercool+pag+46&qid=1626705525&sr=8-2

The short versioned numbers provided are also Motorcraft numbers. My truck is an 11/03 build 2004.
 

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Along these lines of self repair. Does anyone make a good quality NON Chinese vacuum pump anymore? Or are they all Chinese junk? B.
 

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I am sure they do and you'll pay the price for it.

I have owned mine for 1 year and used it once. Unless I have a friend that needs it, my daughter's AC fails or some unforeseen incident with my truck, I doubt I will use it again.;)
 

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I am sure they do and you'll pay the price for it.

I have owned mine for 1 year and used it once. Unless I have a friend that needs it, my daughter's AC fails or some unforeseen incident with my truck, I doubt I will use it again.;)
Give me a shout if you ever want to sell it!! I want one, but just can't seem to the point of actually buying one, lol!
 
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