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2004 F250 6.0 Typical Crank No Start

7429 Views 33 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Hydro
Hello everyone! This is yet another thread on a 6.0 crank no start. I've been working on getting my truck to run again but to no avail. I have read through a lot of forums and want to make sure I am not overlooking what could be a simple fix before I pull the HPOP. I bought a Scan Gauge 2 scanning tool and hooked it up to the truck before tearing apart anything. I scanned for FICM Power, IPR, Sync and ICP.

My values with key on engine off were:
FICM: 48.5V
IPR: 14.99
ICP: 9
Sync: 0

While cranking my values were:
FICM: 48.0-49.5V
IPR: 85
ICP: Max 145-150 PSI
Sync: 1

Next, I unplugged the ICP sensor to see if that was the issue but the truck would still not fire up. I then pulled the IPR valve, checked the screen and cleaned it out. The screen was stuck in the HPOP housing when I originally pulled it out but there was no damage to it. I removed the screen, cleaned the IPR valve, put new o rings on it and a new screen and reinstalled. Truck still wouldn't fire and I had the same ICP value. From this point, I ordered a new IPR valve, replaced it and am still at the crank no start. My next culprit would be the HPOP and an air test but living at an apartment complex, it's hard to get the equipment to it for the air test. I removed the turbo to see how things are looking underneath and there is a lot of oil and gunk all around the HPOP cover and I guess what would be the top of the engine. Could this have been where a leak was and what was causing the low ICP? I'm not sure if there are any o rings that can be replaced for the hoses/pipes that connect to the turbo that would cause the low ICP which would mean my HPOP might be just fine.

Has anyone ever seen something like this end up being the reason for the crank no start? I'll post a picture as well to show you all what it is looking like after the turbo removal.
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Here’s the video of the air test this morning with the oil filter removed. Once again, sorry for the audio cutting in and out. I will be diagnosing my phone after I’m done with my truck lol.


I looked into buying the oil pump this morning and found a guy that’s recommended by this website and he was selling a motorcraft pump that I should have in a few days! CNC Fabrication, LLC is the name of the company.
Blowing back pretty good in the vid -- you do not seem to need to hold the air nozzle very hard to make it seal

fill the new pump with oil and rotate a few times to get the internals coated
(not necessary, but also helps to remove the filter stand pipe and pour oil directly into the reservoir, after you install the new pump
loosen the 2 front bolts a couple of turns, and remove the rear bolt -- rotate CCW a little and lifts straight up)

CNC Fab has a good pump
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Yeah I had the air hose wedged against the top of the engine compartment to get it to seal like that. I’ll get the pump thrown in in a few days when I receive it and let y’all know how she does!
Yeah I had the air hose wedged against the top of the engine compartment to get it to seal like that. I’ll get the pump thrown in in a few days when I receive it and let y’all know how she does!
Work as clean as possible. Work extra slow and be anal about contamination and stuff!
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This is the one you want from CNCFab. I didn't think they were available right now.


Edit - I see where they have the Stage 2 pumps available.
This is the one I ordered this morning.

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This is the one you want from CNCFab. I didn't think they were available right now.


Edit - I see where they have the Stage 2 pumps available.
We are having a bear of a time trying to get cores back from customers. We only have so many in the loop, so if we don't get them back, we can't rebuild and restock our shelf.

If anyone following this thread, we are buying cores.
Update:
Got the new pump and then had to wait on Amazon for a new HPOP cover gasket since nobody in town had one. I just air tested the new pump and it didn’t sound like any air was leaking. Once I pulled the air hose, some oil started to come up and out of the top of the j tube, I’m thinking that’s a good sign. Time to button it all back up and see if she starts! Might get it all done tonight, might finish it in the morning.
Well the truck is running again! The culprit was indeed the oil pump and I want to thank you gentlemen for all your help! I can only imagine how much money I saved myself by tackling this at home with the help of y’all and YouTube rather than sending it in the shop. Also, I have some new tools which is always a plus. It feels and sounds like the truck has a misfire now, probably due to sitting for so long. I’ll see if it works itself out or I’ll try an oil change with some Rev X additive. Again, thank you fellas for all your help!
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Aaaaannnnddd I’m back!! Couple of weeks ago, the truck had a crank no start AGAIN! Thought maybe the pump I got was bad but after pulling it apart, the o-rings on the IPR valve were toast! Put new o rings on, put it all back together and BAM she started up again. However, now I have a weird hissing noise that I’m not sure if it’s the turbo or the y pipes. I’ll upload a video as soon as I can but just wanted to make sure this isn’t more serious if any of y’all have heard this sound before. It stops when I unplug that wire that goes into the turbo.
massive leak on an up pipe? -- look for the exhaust leak
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