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2004 F250 6.0 Typical Crank No Start

7432 Views 33 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Hydro
Hello everyone! This is yet another thread on a 6.0 crank no start. I've been working on getting my truck to run again but to no avail. I have read through a lot of forums and want to make sure I am not overlooking what could be a simple fix before I pull the HPOP. I bought a Scan Gauge 2 scanning tool and hooked it up to the truck before tearing apart anything. I scanned for FICM Power, IPR, Sync and ICP.

My values with key on engine off were:
FICM: 48.5V
IPR: 14.99
ICP: 9
Sync: 0

While cranking my values were:
FICM: 48.0-49.5V
IPR: 85
ICP: Max 145-150 PSI
Sync: 1

Next, I unplugged the ICP sensor to see if that was the issue but the truck would still not fire up. I then pulled the IPR valve, checked the screen and cleaned it out. The screen was stuck in the HPOP housing when I originally pulled it out but there was no damage to it. I removed the screen, cleaned the IPR valve, put new o rings on it and a new screen and reinstalled. Truck still wouldn't fire and I had the same ICP value. From this point, I ordered a new IPR valve, replaced it and am still at the crank no start. My next culprit would be the HPOP and an air test but living at an apartment complex, it's hard to get the equipment to it for the air test. I removed the turbo to see how things are looking underneath and there is a lot of oil and gunk all around the HPOP cover and I guess what would be the top of the engine. Could this have been where a leak was and what was causing the low ICP? I'm not sure if there are any o rings that can be replaced for the hoses/pipes that connect to the turbo that would cause the low ICP which would mean my HPOP might be just fine.

Has anyone ever seen something like this end up being the reason for the crank no start? I'll post a picture as well to show you all what it is looking like after the turbo removal.
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Howdy doo. Since you're that far in might as well perform an air test. Get the fitting from Amazon (about 10 bucks), fab up a cheap hose using parts from Harbor Freight and plug into the IPR port. Use around 130-150 psi pressure if your compressor can handle it. I just did this myself a few days ago (total cost about $30.00). There's tons of writeups and some videos on this. If your pump is bad the system won't hold pressure on it's own and you should hear gurgling sounds in the oil filter housing. This test is the best way to rule out the HPOP.

EDIT: just read that you live in an apartment complex but all you need is a small air compressor. If you were able to tear into the truck this much you should be allowed to run an air test hopefully.
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Thanks for the advice and the link! I just got that piece ordered and should have it on Monday. I'll grab the stuff I need from Harbor Freight and I should be able to use an air compressor without getting yelled at by the leasing office hopefully LOL. When I run that air test, will I need to re-attach any of the pipes I took off that go to the turbo or am I good with the current status shown in the original picture? Also, I know that I will be taking off the oil fill cap to listen for air leaking but if there is no sound of leaks, does that then indicate the pump? Did you find out what was wrong with your truck when you pressure tested it?
You should be good to go as is. No need to reattach anything. Take off the oil filter cap, remove the filter and listen for noise there. If yours is an early build 04 most likely you're looking at a bad pump. Here's a good video which may help you:

This person has other videos showing the air test also. Search his channel and you'll find them. Watch this one and a few more and you'll know exactly what to do. Notice how the HPOP cover in the video is different than yours. You're probably an early build so unfortunately very likely to be a bad pump.

One more:

Good luck!
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The oring on the "J" tube is a known failure on the older style pump -- but you would have to pull the pump cover off to see

--After you do the air test of course
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Thanks for your help Turbohoe! I already received that IPR adapter from Amazon which is impressive! Ill get the rest of the hoses made up tomorrow and hook it up to a compressor and let you know what I find out! I do believe my truck is a late 2004 however. It says 05/04 on the label inside the door.

Hydro, are you talking about the J tube that runs from the turbo to the HPOP cover?
Unbelievable...I went to pull out the IPR valve to ensure the pressure adapter fits and only the solenoid came off :mad:...Now I have a stuck valve in the HPOP cover and am thinking I'll have to remove the cover to get the valve out without causing any damage. I attached a couple pictures of what the IPR valve solenoid looks like after I just removed it. I tried putting the solenoid back on with a tight fit to see if that would break the valve portion loose when re-loosening it and the same thing happened, solenoid separated from the valve. This truck can't cut me a break!
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Just grab the thread portion in the cover with pliers and gently turn it out -- normal for the valve to come apart that way, if it has been over tightened during installation -- 12-15 foot pounds, just because the valve has a large nut, some think it needs armstronged in there

Did you lose the little plunger out of the coil part?
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Have to pull the pump cover off to see the "J" tube -- but that is for later, after the air test

A short hose (3 feet) and ball valve is handy on that adapter, put the ball valve next to the air inlet fitting -- keeps from blowing oil all over when you disconnect the main air hose
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I recommend screwing a 1/4" male quick connect to the back of the test fitting. This allows you to easily screw the fitting into the IPR port without worrying about turning the hose with it. After you have it snugged up just attach the rest of your assembly to it and run the test. I agree that a 3' whip is the way to go. Here's a pic of my setup (minus the crappy air filter which I got rid of):

Red Gas Clock Electronic device Wire
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Alright fellas I had a little time this evening to work on it and did the following. Finally broke loose the 4 bolts holding on the turbo bracket and removed it. That allowed more than enough room to get a pair of pliers like you recommended Hydro and I removed the rest of the IPR valve. I believe I still have the plunger you mentioned but attached a couple of pics of both sides of the valve and think it is the silver piece in the middle of the solenoid half that slides in and out. I went to Harbor Freight this morning and got all the parts you showed in your picture Turbohoe and all was good until I tried hooking it up to the IPR valve area. The IPR adapter you recommended off Amazon worked fine and started threading on easy but got a little more difficult the more I tightened it. I could not for the life of me get the hose to become level enough to plug into the adapter though because it kept hitting the valve cover so I changed the layout of the connectors a bit and you can see that on the link I'm attaching with a YouTube video of how my air test went. The air during the test was coming out of the tube that runs to the turbo and I'm not sure if that indicates a bad pump or if I need to reinstall the turbo and hook up those tubes to close the "flow". What do y'all think?

Hand Gesture Finger Thumb Wrist
Finger Gesture Thumb Wrist Nail


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Usually just screw the air hose directly into the fitting and put the Tee and gauge near the ball valve -- the hose should let the IPR fitting go in straight

Yeah, you have a big leak -- that line is the turbo drain, just goes into the crankcase
gonna be pulling the pump cover off and looking under there for a blown seal

I have a IPR tear down thread on here you may find interesting

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Did the IPR screen come out with the valve?
if it is still in the bore that may explain why the adapter was difficult to screw in
really should be pretty easy until the oring starts to seat, but only a little more then
What seals are below the HPOP cover that I'll be looking at? The screen did come off with the IPR valve when I pulled it out.
Here are a couple of vids that show the J tube and a hack air test you may need when you get the cover off
the air leak may be coming from farther into the system, but the pump area is the place to start
next would be valve cover areas

Vid 1

Vid 2
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And another one

Vid 3
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Looks like that's what I will be hitting next! I sure hope it's as simple as an o-ring on that J-tube! Question for you though...I know those 2 bolts on the back side of the pump cover are going to be a pain to remove but how important are they to re-install after putting the cover back on? I've read about people just leaving them off.
UPDATE: Got the HPOP cover removed and those back two bolts that come in through the heat shield weren't nearly as hard as I thought they were going to be. I just used a small flex head ratchet with a short extension. I pressure tested the hole at the top of the HPOP and didn't seem to hear it coming out of anywhere but did hear gurgling below it. You can hear it if you listen closely. I took a video of how the test went and included it with this post. No need to watch the entire video as there is no change in sound. Where does this leave me at?

Take the oil filter cap off and do the air test again -- you will see the air coming back thru
you pump is worn and letting the air past the valve plates
Also looks like an old style aluminum pump. Don't bet too much on being able to salvage it. You don't want to be doing this again in the near future. My advice is to throw an adrenaline pump in there and be done with it. Good luck either way, I like what you're doing!
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