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Discussion Starter #21
Well another twist to this saga. This afternoon suddenly the horn starts blaring and is stuck. I'm assuming this is what happened the last time that caused the old horn to go bad. So I've replaced the horns and the horn "bladder" in front of the air bag. Something is screwy somewhere. :(
 

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Well there is the clock spring and the harness running down the steering column

Didn't you mention an alarm system? the horn is connected to that
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Yes I'm thinking the alarm system is the next to trace out. I have a 2004 F250 truck that should be very similar in the layout so I'll use that as a template to try to figure out what was disconnected or rewired. At least I got the Excursion inspected and license renewed! :)

I'll let you all know if I come up with something. Thanks!
 

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So, was looking for something else and came across this, I think it is what you need

The horn relay is inside the CJB(central junction box) fuse box at your knee
C270A pin 19 Dark Blue is the horn relay trigger wire that comes from the steering wheel
likely the alarm is tapped into that one -- anytime the blue wire is grounded the relay will close
 

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Discussion Starter #25
That is great. Thank you for that! I'll let you know what I find. :)

Well after several months I'm back to trying to figure this out. The horn lasted a few days (long enough to get inspected) but then died. It has been a busy year on many fronts but its time to get it inspected again so I've got to get it fixed. I'll post back if I find something. Thanks all!
 

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Does the horn work with the steering wheel control?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Update...as mentioned earlier in this thread, I replaced the horn ”bladder” on the steering wheel as well as the horns under the front wheel well earlier in the year and was able to get it inspected. My son borrowed the Excursion a few days later and in the middle of the night the horn started going off and would not stop. He had to remove the fuse for the horn to silence it. I discovered the fuse was missing and replaced it and was able to get the vehicle inspected. The cruise control worked as well. So, now I’ve just got to figure out why it is then going off intermittently. I am pretty sure it is related to the wiring mess under the dash related to the security system. I have an appointment with an auto security/sound system company in a few days. I’m going to pay them to require the current security system or install a new one, perhaps with remote start capability. Once that wiring mess is straightened out I think we’ll be good.

OAN just found out that we have a blown head gasket on it though. Quoted $7500 to stud the head bolts, replace the oil cooler, EGR, hoses, etc. Another $1600 to pull the engine and redo the valves and rockers. o_O The body and the under carriage of the vehicle is in great shape though, so if I do all that I should be able to get another 200k miles out of it as a work vehicle.

Thanks again for everyone’s help with the wiring issue! Have a blessed new year!
 

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That seems excessive for head studs and the little bit of extras you mention -- plus pull the engine?
pull the body in the first place and do the repairs, it is worth the first effort to be able to get to the engine much easier

I would think for that price, new heads would be included and definitely would want to look at the lifters and cam
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I was wondering if that was a bit high. It is a very reputable shop and I’m sure they would do an excellent job and it would have a warranty on the work. However, I have a mechanic I’ve worked with on other vehicles who said he would do the work if I bought the parts ($1800 labor). I thought about ordering the equivalent parts for the Bullet Proof diesel products and having him install those, but I’m not sure if the OEM Ford parts would be better or not. And his work would not come with a warranty.

For a total of about $9,100 the diesel shop was going to install ARP Head Stud kit, head gaskets, O-Ring Cylinder Heads (2), Intake Manifold Headjob Kit, exhaust manifold gaskets, a fuel pressure regulator, Glow plugs, thermostat, oil cooler kit (OEM), exhaust manifold bolts, rocker box gasket, oil pressure switch, switch pigtail harness, heater core hose, coolant hose, coolant, coolant filtration kit, upper and lower fuel filters, oil filter, 18 quarts oil, (16) lifters, lower and upper oil pan gaskets, bed plate gasket, oil tube O-rings, front and rear cover gaskets and front crank seal, rear main seal.

Is there an option of buying a new engine? If so where would I order it? Looking at all options right now. I really don’t have $9k to put into this vehicle right now so I’d like to get it done cheaper, but at the same time if I’m going to drop several thousand in it I’d like to have it done right to avoid future problems.

Any feedback or suggestions are MOST appreciated. Thanks all!
 

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Now that you list all the work, I think its a good price. I was especially looking for lifters, oil pan seal, bedpan seal, and front and main rear seals. I think one or a combination of those seals are leaking.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Thanks Chris. These guys are really top notch reputation wise and I’m sure they will do a good job. Having never had to do any of this before I just wanted another opinion on the best option.
 

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I would suggest at least checking into a few engine reman builders like @6riders mentioned. It sounds like your engine is maybe around 200k miles(?) which isn't super high mileage but it's no spring chicken either. You have a lot of labor involved with blown gaskets and those labor dollars can be applied to a reman engine. Also, the repair route will not increase the value of the truck but the engine replacement definitely will increase its value.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
277k miles. Good point on the remanufactured engine. I didn’t know where to find one. Thanks
 

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If I went the reman route, Asheville. Good reviews off this site.

The posts I’ve read is the engine is delivered at the residence and installed by themselves.

I do not have tools to do that myself, and no place to store a hoist.

I’m sure a shop could install.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Just to update everyone on a couple of issues in this thread. I replaced the horns, the horn bladder in the steering wheel and had a new security system installed to take care of the wiring mess under the dash. All is well! Horn works, cruise control works, remote controls for the stereo work, etc.

I have also gotten a quote from Asheville Engines and just need to line up an installer. I'm going to purchase their remanufactured long block with a couple of extras. I'll have a fully refreshed 2004 Eddie Bauer Excursion then. The frame on this vehicle has NO rust at all and the interior is in great shape. I just ordered a new front seat and armrests from theseatshop.com to give the drivers side a refresh. After the engine is installed I'll find a local paint shop to repair the peeling roof paint (front at windshield and back above rear window) and she should be good as new! Hopefully it will last a few more years.

Thanks for everyone's assistance and input on my questions. It is much appreciated!

Blessings
Randy
 
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