[Chrisorbics]

So I have a 2004 Ford E-350 van that has recently had a new EGR cooler and engine oil cooler as well as dieselsite coolant filter and new Ford OEM glow plugs. I have had the van fixed 4 more than 6 months and it has been running excellent. Always started quickly. Now sometimes there is a very long cranking time. I thought it was the batteries so I got two new DieHard Gold batteries but it turns out the delco's that I pulled out tested good. The truck has been sitting for more than a week as of yesterday and when I cranked it it fired almost immediately. So the long crank is very intermittent. When it cranks for a long time and finally fires up it does not run rough or smoke. No check engine light. So for now I think I am going to follow the Alliant Power video on YouTube with their checklist and just go over everything on the truck. The other thing I might do is put 5w 40 Mobil 1 turbo diesel oil with an oem Ford oil filter in the truck. When the EGR cooler and oil cooler were changed I put STP 15 W 40 diesel oil in it because I didn't know what the outcome of all this work was going to be and I change the oil twice. I think I put an STP oil filter on as well. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to diagnose a random long crank with no rough running?

 

[bismic]

Change the oil filter to a Motorcraft one, and make sure the cap is an OEM oil filter cap. See if that helps.

 

[Chrisorbics]

Ok I'll check on the cap

 

[Chrisorbics]

I have not gotten a chance to check the oil cap and change the oil but I was looking into other possible issues and I was wondering if it is possible to change the standpipe and other o rings underneath the valve cover on my van. I have seen several videos of it being done on pickup trucks but when I pop the hood on my van it looks like there is no room to get the standpipe out. Has anyone ever done this job before on a van?

 

[6riders]

I have not gotten a chance to check the oil cap and change the oil but I was looking into other possible issues and I was wondering if it is possible to change the standpipe and other o rings underneath the valve cover on my van. I have seen several videos of it being done on pickup trucks but when I pop the hood on my van it looks like there is no room to get the standpipe out. Has anyone ever done this job before on a van?

I'd say your symptoms do not lead to a high pressure leak. Maybe the starter, probably the crappy filter (and cap if it's not oem size).
When is it that you experience long crank times, as in; is the engine warm or cold, weather outside, did you just do a long freeway drive, in town drive, cold start in the morning or after sitting for a week or two?
Before you wrap up your mind in what could be wrong, throw up some details.

 

[ChrisSki]

In my signature block and in bismics's signature block, there's a no start sticky. I'd start there. You'll really need a monitor to help diagnose. Without the monitor, its just guessing. If you want guesses, because it's fine after sitting for a week, you may have a no start hot condition. Anyway, need FICM, ICP, and IPR% to make a real diagnosis.

 

[Chrisorbics]

So I have this oil leak. Looks like the oil lines coming into the filter are leaking on top and running down. I'm going to see if I can get a new seal Tomorrow.

Does my filter housing look oem?

Would any of these leaks cause my issue? I do notice that once the oil pressure gauge goes up that the truck starts. When I have a long crank issue the oil pressure does not move on the gauge for a very long time.

The long crank happened today after it had been running previously. The odd thing is that I have had it happened on the first start of the day before.


What is the most economical way to get the FICM, ICP, and IPR% to make a real diagnosis?

 

[ChrisSki]

If the truck doesn't start until the low pressure oil gauge goes up, after you verify an OEM cover, may need to add a mechanical gauge, which in the pick up is hard to do, and for the van even harder. I don't know if the van has a different oil cap or not.

I really doubt that little oil leak would cause a no start. Kind of like a drip leak in a faucet upstairs does not cause a change in the water pressure downstairs even in the house has bad water pressure to start with.

Hopefully someone who has the download for their phone will speak to it. It will help if you say if you're android, ios, or PC cable. It involves downloading software like Forscan, and buying an adapter to plug in under that dash. Both those products are fairly cheap.

The van is a little different engine compartment, so they moved a couple things to different places than most 6.0s like the oil filter. Even though they stopped making the 6.0s for the F series in 2007, they continued the econoline 6.0 until 2010.

 

[bismic]

I have not gotten a chance to check the oil cap and change the oil but I was looking into other possible issues and I was wondering if it is possible to change the standpipe and other o rings underneath the valve cover on my van. I have seen several videos of it being done on pickup trucks but when I pop the hood on my van it looks like there is no room to get the standpipe out. Has anyone ever done this job before on a van?

My apologies - I did not notice the "E-series" in the title. It does not have the cap issue that the F-Series can experience.

 

[Chrisorbics]

Okay. I am pretty positive that after I had my friend change the EGR cooler and the engine oil cooler, I change the oil and put an STP filter in it. I definitely need to check on that ASAP

 

[Chrisorbics]

So I just had time to look into the forscan and I see that it is $5.99 to download the app to my phone and I'm just wondering which adapter I should buy the one is $45 and the other one is $100. I don't mind spending the money I just don't understand the difference between the two products. Does anybody have experience with this program and these adapters? I just want to make sure I'm purchasing the right product so I can get the information that will lead me to a diagnosis of my long crank condition. Download FORScan

 

[Chrisorbics]

Today I installed new O-rings where the oil lines go into the oil filter housing as well as replaced the standpipe that goes in the center of the oil filter. OEM oil filter and Mobil 1 turbo diesel 5w 40. The truck took a while to start after the oil change but I let it run for a while and tried a couple hot starts and had no issues. I'll see how it starts up tomorrow. I can see that there still oil leaking and it looks like it's coming from the new OEM filter cap but I will have to look at it in more detail tomorrow. When I was cleaning the metal oil filter housing where the two oil lines go in I noticed that it is very pitted and nasty in there but the bottom where are the O-rings set look like it was smooth. I will check to see if it's leaking from the top or the bottom.

 

[Chrisorbics]

So I downloaded forscan on my computer. I got the USB to OBD2 plug and I've recorded my findings and posted them on YouTube. I'll put the link here and hopefully someone can leave me in the right direction.

 

[Chrisorbics]

I thought I was not getting a high pressure oil reading but after watching another video I'm being led to believe that the ICP is the same as high pressure oil. I just want to make sure that this is correct. If so the forscan software that I am using is showing the pressure of the ICP in kPa. So to my understanding the pressure should be 500 PSI in order to start which is equivalent to about 3500 kPa. I went back and reviewed my videos and my pressure was always over 7,000 kpa while cranking and higher which is much higher than 500 PSI.

So with the information that I have are there any recommendations on which direction I should go?

 

[bismic]

The ICP is the Injection Control Pressure - it is the pressure of the discharge of the high pressure oil pump (HPOP).

The problem is that sometimes the PCM doesn't believe the voltage output of the ICP sensor, so it reports an "inferred" value for the pressure. You need to watch the PID (that is the PCM Parameter) for the ICP sensor voltage, the PCM value for pressure, AND the PID for the DESIRED ICP pressure to truly know what is going on.

Edit - I forgot - you need to also watch the IPR % duty cycle (it is a commanded value as there is no actual sensor to detect the actual valve position).

 

[Chrisorbics]

The ICP is the Injection Control Pressure - it is the pressure of the discharge of the high pressure oil pump (HPOP).

The problem is that sometimes the PCM doesn't believe the voltage output of the ICP sensor, so it reports an "inferred" value for the pressure. You need to watch the PID (that is the PCM Parameter) for the ICP sensor voltage, the PCM value for pressure, AND the PID for the DESIRED ICP pressure to truly know what is going on.

Edit - I forgot - you need to also watch the IPR % duty cycle (it is a commanded value as there is no actual sensor to detect the actual valve position).

Ok. I will check forscan and see if it has those pids today. Thank you.

 

[bismic]

It has those PIDS

 

[Chrisorbics]

It has those PIDS

Great in that case I'll have the information early this afternoon. I'll take another video and post it. Hopefully the truck has the same issue today. The first day I got the software on my computer and the OBD plug, the truck started perfectly both cold and hot.

 

[Chrisorbics]

So I looked into the pits you were asking about and it looks like I already have them selected on forscan?
Did you watch the video I posted a link to on YouTube?

 

[Chrisorbics]

I just hooked up my computer to the truck again and now it cranks up instantly. I'm going to start driving it again everyday. I had stopped using it because I didn't want to get stranded at my house in the morning.