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Discussion Starter #1
i have a 2004 6.0 f350 it has 132,000 miles. truck has a lot of trouble starting sometimes must use starting fluid. idle is very rough and has no power when trying to drive sometimes it cant do 5 mph and sometimes it can do 45 mph or more. Sometimes it seems fine and has normal power for just a min then no power and tries dying. Have installed 2 new batteries, i have tested the ficm and it maintains 48v or more all the time. I read to test the icp valve i could use a dc multimeter. So i cut back the blue and gray wire and tested volts while cranking. Never got over 0.3 volts. So i think i am having a hpop problem??? What do you guys think
Thank You
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also when truck is idling oil pressure drops to 0. When idled up a little bit oil pressure is normal. When cranking the truck oil pressure gauge stays at 0. I have cranked as long as 20 sec and no oil pressure build up
 

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Ok so I was done for the night and can't get truck to even start I was going to pull it back it the shop but it won't start. It won't even start using starting fluid either. I removed the oil filter and pushed that part down and the canister filled in apprx 10 sec. So I think it's definitely the hpop but would like some input from others
 

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Sounds like it, a gauge set is also something you should get, monitoring your ICP/IPR values would let you know. ScangaugeII is $160.00 at Auto Zone.
 

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Man I would NOT use starter fluid on that truck.
 

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If your cylinders were to fire out of sequence using starter fluid you could damage your valves, pistons and even the crankshaft. If you had no glow-plugs or had disabled the GPCM relay, then you might be safe to use it! But why, if it isn't running correctly, you really don't want it to break-down away from home! For example, now how are you going to get it into your shop? Tow it/push it with another vehicle or tractor?

You need gauges of some type. Your ICP should be about 0.8v (500 psi) to get the FICM to give you fuel. With your at 0.3v, you need to know what your IPR is doing and if it is broken-open. With the trail of it getting worse over time, the indications are leading to an HPO problem of some type. In any case, if your HPOP is bad, change out your IPR as good practice.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok so no more starting fluid. :) I have ordered a obd scanner thats suppose to hook up to my laptop hopefully it will show what my icp and ipr is doing if not i will go to autozone and buy one. I guess i need to find out what these icp and ipr values are to see what the next step is. Thanks
 

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If that scanner you ordered is the AutoEnginuity you made a good purchase if you bought the Ford specific software as well, you will need it to access the 6.0's info.
 

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Mhatien I bought a scangagell at auto zone. Now when I plug it up what do I need to do to find the values I need. Thanks

Btw it also had a p2285 injector code also
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok so I bought the scangageII and programmed the ipr and icp. I then did that gauges and didnt get a reading on the icp gauge but I got 14.4 on the ipr. So with these readings what should I suspect my problem is? Any help would be appreciated. I need to get this truck going by the weekend if possible thanks
 

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You have to give us more info!
Did you crank over the engine and was the IPR 14.4% and the ICP 0.0 PSI? How did you set the parameters? Volts are OK, but you have to know the voltage relationship. You should expect the IPR approaching 85% during the initial crank and ICP over 500 PSI or 0.8v.

The PCM commands the IPR to close for the start and to regulate ICP. However, if the IPR does not restrict flow, and this is what may have happened, then your IPR is more than likely shot. Pull it out and inspect it. If the screen is damaged, the IPR is 99% shot. If it is crud, it might be shot. Try to run some air to it under pressure. You could apply voltage (12v) to the IPR briefly (less than 30 seconds from applying 12v) to see if the air flow decreases. If it does, you may have a wiring issue. If air stays the same, your IPR is shot.
 

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if ipr is at 14% cranking, something is wrong with ipr command/inputs to the pcm for ipr command. not the ipr itself.
however, something tells me that the reading has more to do with user error
 

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Discussion Starter #14
ok, i bought my scangaugeII and plugged it in the entered all the codes to program for the icp and ipr. i think they are both entered correctly then i saved them and went to my gauges and selected both ipr and icp as 2 gauges. the ipr automatically went to 14.4 with engine off key on and it stayed the same when cranking 14.4. is there a way to make sure the ipr and icp are programmed to % and psi? the icp never showed a number at all not even a zero...
Please let me know what i need to do from here.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok not sure what was going on but I renters everything now I have some numbers finally.
Key on only
42 icp 14.4 ipr
Cranking
1800-2000 icp
72-74 ipr
 

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I went out to check what I could get on a crank, being your numbers seemed a bit high. Pre-crank ICP 15% and ICP 100 psi (must be a voltage conversion error). While cranking I got a max IPR max 65% and ICP max 1500. It stabilized at ICP 55% and ICP 1350. So if your numbers are valid, they are very good.

Something else is going on. I know you checked your FICM, but do it again. What was your FICM volts during the crank? My input voltage was 12v and 48v both KOEO and cranking.

If it was OK, then look for CMP and CKP synch at "1". It needs this to start and run. If all that checks, move to fuel.

Fuel, can you hear the pump, did you see any fuel vapour coming out the tail pipe? Check/change your fuel filters and drain the low point. Put a fuel pressure test gauge on it. M12x1.5 for the fitting. There are adapters to get to 1/8npt for a gauge. If you take the lid off the secondary filter, does it fill quickly? Don't let it overflow, your wiring won't like you!

The no start hard start sticky is full of information to use.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
My ficm was 48v when cranking so its good but will check again this evening. I will have to check the cmp and ckp. The fuel bowl fills pretty quickly when I open and remove the filter then turn the key on.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I was thinking oil issue because when it was running ( real ****ty ) the oil pressure gauge would drop to zero at idle. And on long 30 sec cranks it still stays at zero....
 

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I was thinking oil issue because when it was running ( real ****ty ) the oil pressure gauge would drop to zero at idle. And on long 30 sec cranks it still stays at zero....
OK, I thought you meant HPO in post 2 not LPO. So you get low pressure oil intermittently and almost nothing at idle.

It is possible your HPO side has sucked in air and will be very difficult to start until fixed and purged.

So for follow-on:
- You can get good HPO pressure (ICP > 500 psi) and the IPR is being commanded to >60% during a start attempt, but perhaps intermittently.
- You have a solid 47+v out of the FICM.
- You have good fuel flow available, but have not check the pressure.
- Low pressure oil switch shows "0" on the dash gauge at idle and even during a very long crank, it may not show.
- You still need to check CMP and CMK.
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So, how to check LPO. The switch is about 7 psi, on or off. The port is hard to get to on the front of the engine, so the easiest way is to watch how quickly the filter bowl fills. If that is good, you may not have a low oil pressure problem. To test the pressure, you need to hook up a gauge to the port, the switch location, or inside/on the oil filter bowl (cap style).

The other problem could be the oil pick-up tube or the O-ring that seals it. If it has failed, you could get similar issues. To possibly confirm this, you have to overfill the oil. Don't run it like this, but if it gets you started, it is a good place to look!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
We'll I have already pulled the oil filter cap and filter and pushed the black thing down and watched the oil fill as the key was on cranking it took about 10-11 sec to fill it up. But I don't understand the zero oil pressure at idle and long cranking. But when you touch the pedal and idle up gauge goes to normal. I am going to buy a new cmp and ckp and install them and see what happens. That way I can rule those out.
 
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